2000NavyZ

iTrader: (8)

i am looking at the UMI # 2205 torque arm. This is supposed to work with true duals, will it also work with a y-pipe setup and a 3 inch catback? hopefully get some answers by tonight!!!

http://www.umiperformance.com/2205 link to product

Sam Strano

iTrader: (41)

That particular item is a direct replacement for the OEM Torque Arm. Basically if your exhaust will fit with the stock GM arm, it'll fit with the 2205. The car has a y-pipe and 3" exhaust as is, so it's simply a matter of if your new Y-pipe mimics the stock Y-pipe location very well (and it pretty much has to).

http://www.stranoparts.com/partdetai...D=18&ModelID=7 link to product.

BMR Tech

iTrader: (9)

Just to give you options our torque arm will also clear true duals. If you have any questions please feel free to ask!!
http://www.bmrfabrication.com/F-bodySuspension.htm

2000Hawk

iTrader: (5)

For someone such as myself, and others out there who don't know much about suspension or setting it up. Whats the benefit of having an adjustable torque arm? And whats the different between those that stay mounted to the transmission and those that mount to the tunnel? I understand that with to much power, the transmission mounted one can break stuff. But do they perform differently since mounted in different areas? Thanks
-Joel

BMR Suspension

iTrader: (6)

At first glance, the BMR Adjustable Torque Arm looks very similar to the UMI torque arm. However, if you look closely you'll see some significant design differences. For example, look at the front part of each torque arm (where the torque arm inserts into the poly bushing). The BMR torque arm uses a 1.25" OD steel tube (0.120" wall thickness) to support the front load. This is a one-piece tube that extends the entire length of the torque arm. The UMI torque arm uses a piece of corrugated sheet metal to support the front load. This sheet metal extension is welded to 2 pieces of tubing.

Here is a picture from the UMI web site:



Compare that to the BMR torque arm photo above. This is a critical area for determining the overall strength of the torque arm. Which torque arm do you think will fail first? I'm sure you can see that steel tubing is much stronger than a piece of welded sheet metal.

If you have any further questions, please call Lee Spicher at BMR at 813-986-9302. Lee is the best suspension Tech Guy on this board. Lee has been answering tech questions for BMR since way before UMI opened its doors.

Like most BMR products, our Adjustable Torque Arm (TA001) is in stock in both red and black hammertone. Order before 2:30 EST and we'll ship it the same day. Good Luck!!

UMI Performance

iTrader: (77)

Hello,

Thanks for the interest in our product.

We have that item installed and being used on single digit 1/4 mile cars and with no issues. The strength of the torque arm is not a concern... but of course a competitor would say it was

When we designed that item we actually designed it around a true dual system. This way we can insure clearance with some of the popular true dual systems out there, such as the Texas Speed set-up. Our item offers additional room over the factory torque arm and BMR torque arm, this allows you to tuck the torque arm tighter against the floor of the car for additional ground clearance. With the stock arm or BMR arm you system would hang approx. 1" lower then installed with our arm. The last picture shows were the stock arm and BMR arm would most likely rub. Also this arm will clear with any y-pipe set-up.

Please take a look at the pictures below and let me know if you have any questions. Thank you! Ryan

Black02SLPSS

iTrader: (5)

2000Hawk

iTrader: (5)

But are the torque arms easy to adjust? I've never done anything to my suspension, so obviously my first choice is the non-adjustable. But if in the long run im better off with the adjustable, then thats were i'd rather spend my money. Im just not sure how the adjustments work, and how to set everything. Last thing i need is to buy adjustable hardware and find my car going down the street crooked.
-Joel

BMR Tech

iTrader: (9)

Joel,
BMR Fabrication created a 3-minute video that explains how to install and adjust an F-Body torque arm. This video is located on the front page of our website. Please feel free to check it out :

www.bmrfabrication.com

This is just another example of how BMR offers the best tech help in the F-Body suspension industry.

Sam Strano

iTrader: (41)

It's more than stretch to say that the nose on the UMI arm is "sheet metal". I'm quite disappointed in hearing such a statement from BMR. Everyone manages to co-exist, in large part because there aren't comments like that (not Lee's, but Alan's) thrown around.

FWIW, the nose on the UMI is a like the nose on a GM arm, but thicker gauge metal. And I'll be damned if I can recall any GM arm breaking up there. They break at the back, not the front.

I am a UMI dealer, but I've never had anything against BMR and in fact in the past was the very first to defend BMR when someone was trying to stake them to the cross for a part failure that I didn't think was BMR's fault.

2000Hawk: Adjusting a TA is not hard at all. In fact if you look at the first picture Ryan posted above, you can clearly see the turnbuckle just in front of the diff housing. That's what you turn to adjust the pinion angle. A TA won't cause the car to drive crooked, that'd be things like adjustable LCA's if they were way off (and they also aren't hard to adjust anyway). The biggest issue you might have it too much pinion angle which manifests itself in a vibration. If you get too much, just back it off a bit. Easy and simple.

2000Hawk

iTrader: (5)

Thanks guys, i checked out the video and its making a bit more sense. Thanks for the input as well Sam.
-Joel

Datzneat

iTrader: (4)

I've seen plenty of broken torque arms. Most common point of failure (that i've seen) is on the back mounting section. I've seen plenty of broken BMR and Edlbrock(sp?) torque arms but not UMIs. Not to say that it hasn't happened of course.

Cap'n Pete

iTrader: (2)

I just installed my UMI adjustable Tq arm yesterday ..... looks pretty beefy to me?! And comparing that front tab on the arm (where it slides into the mount) to the stock arm, it's definitely thicker, and it seems strong as anything! Not knocking the BMR arm, obviously it's super strong too, but likely in an "over-kill" kind of way?

Like the others have mentioned, the only failures I've read about have been at/around the rear mounts, and the adjusters ripping out of the bars.

2000Hawk

iTrader: (5)

After installing and adjusting your torque arm, did you feel any difference in ride quality?
-Joel

Cap'n Pete

iTrader: (2)

Car's still in the garage awaiting a new steering rack . However, a friend of mine with the same Tq arm said that he noticed a little bit more harshness and/or drivetrain noise inside the car compared to the stock arm, but nothing really un-bearable . I wonder if it's due to the switch to a poly front mount, which I already had on my stock arm anyway?

Vicious95Z28

iTrader: (1)

Every Suspension piece on my car has come directly from Ryan @ UMI. Great products. top notch customer service and additionally Ryan is a complete gentlmen! I am so pleased with all of the help that I've received from UMI that I will continue to purchase my suspension parts from Ryan. My only complaint is that I'm yet to get a UMI performance sticker for my work tool box

02Z28LS1

iTrader: (2)

yeah, i'm loving all my UMI products on my car as well....the only things i have on my suspension that aren't UMI are the shocks (koni), springs (Strano), and the swaybars (Hotchkis), which UMI doesn't even make. i'm not saying that i don't like BMR products.....i just haven't ever personally used them, so i don't have any experience to draw from regarding their products.

i would have had Strano's sways, too, but i got my Hotchkis bars during a group purchase before i even knew about Strano's bars, and i just don't really feel the need to swap them out at this point.

as to the difference in the front of the BMR arm vs. the UMI arm....sure, it is possible that the UMI one may fail before the BMR one does, but only given extremely rare circumstances that 99.9% of people will never meet. it's kinda like "overkill" (UMI) vs. "super-overkill" (BMR).....kinda like using an a-bomb to kill a mosquito.

both arms are much more likely to fail in another spot before failing at the front point. if not, it's still also more likely that unless you've relocated your front mounting point off the transmission, the tranny tailshaft will break long before the bar does.

and if you're to the power level where your torque arm is breaking, it's time to start looking at a tunnel-mounted part anyway......

UMI Performance

iTrader: (77)

Thanks guys And I will get you some stickers shortly!

We made our design the way it is so the torque arm will still accept the factory bushing if desired. Some people are not crazy about running polyurethane bushings so arm will accept the factory rubber bushing if desired.

We have talked about switching it over similar to the straight tube design. Not because of failure of any kind but due to the fact that it is much less expensive, quicker and half the labor time to make it that way.

barnat

iTrader: (59)

A very classy come back ryne!!!!Thats why i buy all my susp stuff from you guys now!!! and I know for a fact BMR doesnt want to put a picture of there K member up against yours LOL!!!That would be suicidel LOL!!!I just put your K member on this weekend guy!!Tell Jerry everthing fit perfect and it will work with my APS twin turbo kit ,as he said it would!!

UMI Performance

iTrader: (77)

Ed, Thanks for the positive feedback! I am glad we could get you fixed up, I was a little worried there at first but I am glad we got it all squared away and everything fit

If you need anything else don't hesitate to call us!

Ryan