WARPNOVA

iTrader: (3)

Has anyone experienced this? It is a moser 12 bolt rear with a billet cover that has the two pensioner bolts. I have had to shave one of the bolts to clear the bar in the first place and that was after doing some grinding on the bar itself. I have since done even more grinding but I have noticed that there have been a few times where I have gone over a road dip that has cause the whole pumpkin cover to bash up into the track arm twisting it some. The panhard bar clears but only because it is tubular. I needed an adjustable panhard bar to get the wider meats to clear but other wise the panhard bar that I did have would of hit too. It is only when I hit big sloping dips that cause the rear to really go up does it hit and it can do it at low speeds too just depends on the dip.

I am thinking of going either UMI or BMR relocation kit but am worried since my car has Koni’s on it and also has the heater hose mod done to the springs to lower it that the two bars might hit one another and that won’t work either. I also like the idea of using the relocation kit as I might do true duals over the axel but like I said am worried of the bars kissing each other. Does one brand of relocation kit fit better to prevent that bar from hitting the panhard bar.

proelky

iTrader: (13)

I have a 9" with no room to play without running an aftermarket panhard bar. If by chance the LCA's were longer/adjustable past the stock 19" I would have the same issue with my filler neck. My guess would be you're cover is the problem! Try to run a tubular PH bar, or another cover.

EPP

iTrader: (22)

We ran mine with the oem panhard bar back in '02 without it hitting. I do remember that it was close though. Bob

WARPNOVA

iTrader: (3)

The lower control arms are SLP stock reinforced with a poly / rubber combo. Basically same length as stock. I also had a SLP stock reinforced panhard bar with polys but that defiantly had to go with an after market one that was adjustable to keep the wider tires from rubbing. But before I did that I tried to fit the old panhard bar on there but there was no way it would have worked as it hit the moment I tried to line it up. I did think of getting adjustable LCA’s but the wheels fit and line up real well in the wheel wells. I just can’t figure out why it is that much further back.

EPP

iTrader: (22)

I have found that the majority of our cars actually have the axle back .5 of an inch too far. This becomes more evident when you install a 28 inch tall tire on the rear of the car. Adjustable lower control arms are necessary to move it forward, a .5 on an inch may be all you need, you might want to check it out again. Bob

WARPNOVA

iTrader: (3)

Yes a half inch would be all the difference in the world and I might just have to break down and get the adjustable control arms but money is tight somewhat. But before I do I am going to try and clearance the track arm a little more as I think I got just a small amount more room that I can get before I start worrying about weakening the bar. I double checked it last night and I think I can get it as it is so very close. All I need is a quarter inch more and that is the rolled lip of the bar so since mine is a boxed one from Granatelli I think I will be ok and if it looks like too much I will just have to wire the welder up sooner then I wanted and re-brace the track arm until I can afford either a new track arm or new LCA’s.

Thanks for all the help everyone.
Travis