1.85 track results
#4
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Location: Orange Park/ Jacksonville, FL
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I think there's more to it than traction cause I cant get any either (2.2 60ft ) but I'm running consistent 12.6's @ 114
#5
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Haha i was getting 2.4 60's. I have moser axels, torsion dif, and motive 3.73s. I'm afraid to put the 68s, 26" Et drags on it. I sping the 275s, deep into 3rd and have to bay the throttle. Are you guys just runnin sticky tires and sayin the hell with it or what? I have BFGs, but not DRS just street tires.
#7
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Location: Brookings, South Dakota
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I have a set of Comp 1.75 RR' s sitting in an oil bath.
Anything special about the install or is it pretty straight forward? I got pretty light headed using denatured alcohol to clean them. And that was in my garage with both doors open.
I figure with the polylocks I am gonna have to do some work to the inside of the valve covers.
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Frat
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#8
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They were not fun to install, it did help to completely remove the coil packs.
Adjustment: I adjusted them as follows: 0 lash, then 1/4 turn more, tighten the jam nut down, backed the poly back 1/4 turn, turned the jam nut in 1/4, then snug eveything 1/4 to 3/8's a turn.
Traction: I am running yoko street tires, getting 1.99-2.02 60ft times. I do not stab the gas, I roll into it.
There is a M6 up there running 13.4's at 108, his 60ft are 2.2. Getting it moving before slamming the gas seems to be the key. He also runs with 35psi in the tire, I run 16psi.
The corrected altitude was 2100ft. The track did have good bite.
Adjustment: I adjusted them as follows: 0 lash, then 1/4 turn more, tighten the jam nut down, backed the poly back 1/4 turn, turned the jam nut in 1/4, then snug eveything 1/4 to 3/8's a turn.
Traction: I am running yoko street tires, getting 1.99-2.02 60ft times. I do not stab the gas, I roll into it.
There is a M6 up there running 13.4's at 108, his 60ft are 2.2. Getting it moving before slamming the gas seems to be the key. He also runs with 35psi in the tire, I run 16psi.
The corrected altitude was 2100ft. The track did have good bite.
#9
Staging Lane
Thread Starter
I always use the MPH as the indicator for POTENTIAL ET. Take our trap speed and divide it into 1320. It will give you what an optimal run would be, assuming you are geared right, and have the right converter. Example: 1320/110mph=12.00
As I see it, my mph indicates that I have enough HP to run 12.0, but would probably need 3.90-4.10 gears and a 3500-4000 stall.
As I see it, my mph indicates that I have enough HP to run 12.0, but would probably need 3.90-4.10 gears and a 3500-4000 stall.
#10
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Hey... thanks for the heads up. I tried a "search" to see what others have theirs adjusted too, but it does not appear that too many of our counterparts use the Comp RR's.
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Frat
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Frat