99blancoSS

iTrader: (115)

Have one gun and need to spray sealer then base coat then midecoat with pearl then clear coat. Whats the best way to clean the gun in between coats ?? I wont have time to take it all apart before it dries to much will I?

the HOK instructions are pretty specific to the flash time and next coat, I dont want to take to long and have to wait or sand.. Newbie, doing the engine bay for practice before I do the whole car...LOL

fast377

iTrader: (52)

Laquer thinner. Just rinse the cup out then refill and run the thinner through whill squeezing the trigger (no air applied).

Beyond Static

iTrader: (5)

You can wait a max of about 30 minutes between the sealer and base if you want, and up to a day between coats of base, or between the base and clear without needing to sand for adhesion. But definately follow the HOK tech manuel, but it doesn't have to be as exact as they say. As stated above, lacquer thinner is the best/cheapest cleaner to use

Fast_94_Z

iTrader: (12)

laquer thinner. see if you can get some 3m pps cups aswell. the part number is 16000 and then get the correct fitting for you gun. it will save you the hassel of cleaning your gun.

99blancoSS

iTrader: (115)

I'm confused with the cups and lids, I have an HVLP spray gun with a 1000cc suction feed canister

torquejunky

iTrader: (10)

PPS cups will not work with a siphon feed gun they are designed for gravity feed guns and aren't worth they money IMO unless you are spraying in a high production shop (where you wouldn't have to pay for them anyways). Just do as others have said and use lacquer thinner in between coats and the take the gun apart once you are finished and clean more thoroughly with lacquer thinner.

99blancoSS

iTrader: (115)

right on, some what skeered..LOL Havent flown solo before

cvalliere

iTrader: (1)

Did I hear the phrase syphon feed gun? Holy old school!!! But yeah laquer thinner then when done tear it apart and clean it good.

99blancoSS

iTrader: (115)

Is gravity feed better? I wasnt sure so I went old school..LOL

torquejunky

iTrader: (10)

yeah gravity feed is the standard nowadays they are more efficient and I think the EPA likes better to since they don't produce a giant cloud of solvents when you are shooting.

99blancoSS

iTrader: (115)

I thought the HVLP was for the epa? Heheheh, oh well. I have one gravity feed but its like a 350cc canister.. bought if for doing models and intakes maybe.

torquejunky

iTrader: (10)

yeah most gravity guns around now are hvlp there are some people using standard pressure guns. You will always use more pressure in a siphon feed gun HVLP or not and will waste more material. You may be able to get a larger cup for the gravity gun you have or you could get an entry level gun from Harbor Freight or if you plan on spraying again in the future a Devilbiss starting line gun might be a better place to start.

99blancoSS

iTrader: (115)

Damn, should have asked before I bought. The one I got was $55 delivered so its not like it was top of the line but I have it so I'm not sure I should go buy another. Is there a big difference, is one easier to spray with than the other? how much for the devilbiss ? Arent they like 300 guns?

torquejunky

iTrader: (10)

I have only used a siphon feed gun once and at first it was a pain to get it spraying right but once I did it wasn't too too bad just took some getting used to since I learned on gravity guns. If you plan on doing more painting in the future I would get a gravity gun, if you just plan on a one time thing or just every once in a while don't worry about it. The "starting line" guns are pretty cheap, look around online or go by your local paint supply shop I think I remember seeing a two gun kit (one w/ a primer tip and one w/ bc/cc tip) for about 100 bucks. I have been using their "finish line" guns which are like their middle of the road guns for about two years now and I love them.

fast377

iTrader: (52)

Gravity feed is definately the way to go. But good guns cost a good bit. My base clear SATA was around 550, and my primer SATA was around 350. Both worth every penny.

torquejunky

iTrader: (10)

Yeah I learned on SATA, I will probably get one when I come across a good deal on a solid used one. They are real nice but if you are just getting into painting or just doing it as a hobby then IMO you can find a gun that will shoot just as nice for a lot less money. My friend that swears by SATAs was surprised how well he did with my Devilbiss finishline guns. I think the big difference is durability but if you take good care of them and clean them well, some of the the cheaper guns work just fine.

cvalliere

iTrader: (1)

You mean the Finish Line guns.

Edit: I feel stupid. I've been painting professionally for almost 10yrs. now and I have never heard of their Starting Line guns..... looked it up and now I have. MY BAD

On another note, all my guns are Devilbiss guns, I have (2) GTI's for base, a Plus for clear and a FInish Line with a1.8 fluid tip for high build primers.

torquejunky

iTrader: (10)

I don't think they have been around for too long, maybe a couple years, a friend of mine that does this more for a hobby got a set of three guns for like $125. I know they are cheap but they really aren't all that bad. I am considering ordering a starting line gun for primer and they make a jamb gun as well that I'll probably pick up. That way I can have those two and my three finishline guns for base, pearls/metallics, and clear.

Bad94

iTrader: (1)

Im a painter, and i will only spary with Sata guns.

If one of my guns are down(not very often) i have a Sharpe SFG 98 as the back up gun.

Beyond Static

iTrader: (5)

damn, no Iwata love in here....lol. One of the reps came down about 2 years ago, and was offering 20% off every Iwata product. Needless to say, everyone I know in baton rouge that paints uses iwata's.