LQx rod strength
#1
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LQx rod strength
Ive searched and not really found anything conclusive.
At what point should the rods be upgraded? Where are people starting to see problems with these? I plan on making around 500 with forged pistons and a bit higher compression and Im trying to see if its necessary to get new rods or if im find with the stock ones.
Also, I have ARP rod bolts already.
There is a good possibility of being sprayed in the future also.
At what point should the rods be upgraded? Where are people starting to see problems with these? I plan on making around 500 with forged pistons and a bit higher compression and Im trying to see if its necessary to get new rods or if im find with the stock ones.
Also, I have ARP rod bolts already.
There is a good possibility of being sprayed in the future also.
Last edited by CBIII; 06-02-2008 at 04:50 PM.
#2
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The rod bolts are typically the weak point in the equation. Our stock rods are extremely strong compared to those in GEN I engines. 500rwhp should be fine with stock rods and good rod bolts in them. The thing is do you ever plan on spraying it? Another thing to consider is if you ever plan on selling this engine the resale value will be much higher with forged rods. You can get some SCAT I beams for about $275. The H beams are around $500.
#3
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The rod bolts are typically the weak point in the equation. Our stock rods are extremely strong compared to those in GEN I engines. 500rwhp should be fine with stock rods and good rod bolts in them. The thing is do you ever plan on spraying it? Another thing to consider is if you ever plan on selling this engine the resale value will be much higher with forged rods. You can get some SCAT I beams for about $275. The H beams are around $500.
#6
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I beams are good choices. It all depends on what you plan on doing with the engine. If you don't ever potentially seeing yourself wanting more power and throwing nitrous on it use the stock rods. Scat I beams are good for about 750 flywheel HP + their buffer zone. H beams are good for pretty much anything after that you'd be able to pull off with a 347.
#7
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I beams are good choices. It all depends on what you plan on doing with the engine. If you don't ever potentially seeing yourself wanting more power and throwing nitrous on it use the stock rods. Scat I beams are good for about 750 flywheel HP + their buffer zone. H beams are good for pretty much anything after that you'd be able to pull off with a 347.
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#8
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I just read a thread on here in the last couple days comparing the I and H beams. Tony Mamo posted he thought that the materials and and manufacturing QC was a more important factor than whether it was H or I IIRC (please chime in Tony because I don't want to speak for you). I know after reading that post I decided I would look real hard at I beams when I have to rebuild because they are cheaper and lighter.
I can't find it but if anyone else here can please post the link
I can't find it but if anyone else here can please post the link
#9
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I just read a thread on here in the last couple days comparing the I and H beams. Tony Mamo posted he thought that the materials and and manufacturing QC was a more important factor than whether it was H or I IIRC (please chime in Tony because I don't want to speak for you). I know after reading that post I decided I would look real hard at I beams when I have to rebuild because they are cheaper and lighter.
I can't find it but if anyone else here can please post the link
I can't find it but if anyone else here can please post the link
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Is that rod to center distance? It says the LS1 is 6.098 for that measurement, so that would not work. I am working on putting my leftover LS1 internals in a bored 5.3 motor that I will run with a carb for a truck I have. I have two snapped rods, I think I may just find some LS1 rods.