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head bolt broke in block

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Old 06-02-2008, 04:15 PM
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Default head bolt broke in block

Was tighting down the number 1 bolt on right head, and snap, torque wrench never clicked (UGH ANGER) the top threaded area is were it broke so the fragment is about 2-1/2 in" in the block. A machine shop said pull the block and let them pull it, why not use an easy out, or bolt extractor. Well you guys are the experts what my best bet for removing the bolt. This is for the LS1 2002 trans am. tried searching no help that i found
Old 06-02-2008, 04:45 PM
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stock bolt or arp?
Old 06-02-2008, 05:38 PM
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heres the biggest question..

do you trust yourself enoughattempting to get it out knowing that you could **** it up worse?
Old 06-02-2008, 05:55 PM
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if the bit slips off the bolt you're in trouble. You might be better off pulling the block unless you're sure you can see everything in there.
Old 06-02-2008, 07:13 PM
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Originally Posted by Kurtomac
stock bolt or arp?
Likely ARP, torque on stock bolts is only 37 lb-ft before you measure angle.

Better get your torque wrench calibrated.
Old 06-02-2008, 08:08 PM
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yea ive done stock bolts a couple times on my last car...first time with ARPs
Old 06-03-2008, 05:45 AM
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2.5" below the deck face? This ain't goin to be easy. You'll need a sleeve to "guide" the drill bit down the hole to the center of the broken bolt. The sleeve should help keep the drill bit centered while you drill the hole for the screw extractor. Now you need a very long screw extractor or a bit extender. That might work. This ain't goin to be easy.
Old 06-03-2008, 10:22 AM
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Used new felpro bolts was torqueing to 22 ft-lbs. according to ls1howto write up.
Old 06-03-2008, 02:11 PM
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Most likely there was fluid in the bottom of the bolt hole and your were then trying to compress fluid. I agree that if your torque wrench never clicked, you need a new torque wrench, or the bolt had a serious flaw in it.

This is the main reason why I went with studs. That $250 was well worth the time, effort and expense that this guy is going to go through in pulling the motor.

The location might make it easier to pull, but I'd let someone experienced do it. Call around and see if someone is willing to pull the broken bolt with the motor in the car. Worst case is you get a tow to the shop and pay for the back and forth towing expense.
Old 06-03-2008, 07:52 PM
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Originally Posted by eallanboggs
2.5" below the deck face? This ain't goin to be easy. You'll need a sleeve to "guide" the drill bit down the hole to the center of the broken bolt. The sleeve should help keep the drill bit centered while you drill the hole for the screw extractor. Now you need a very long screw extractor or a bit extender. That might work. This ain't goin to be easy.
yeah do what he says if you try it yourself. I just had this problem and didn't take my time looking for the correct sleeve to fit perfectly, and I ended up drilling sideways into the broken bolt. I don't know how bad it is yet but I ended up yanking the engine out and taking it to a shop. Hopefully they can fix it right. You can't find long screw extractors, unless if you get one special made maybe. But I found out you can get a 8-point socket to fit the screw extractors and anything smaller then 9/32" will fit into the bolt hole. And if you use a #4 extractor that requires the 1/4" drill bit... a 1/4" drive extension upside down works perfect on that #4 extractor. but you'll have to grind it a little bit to get it to fit in the slot. Then I used adapters into a socket and a long nut to fit another socket and ratchet on the top




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