I'm sure it has been ask but Nothing matches my prob CAN YOU HELP ME?
#1
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I'm sure it has been ask but Nothing matches my prob CAN YOU HELP ME?
Ok,
Had a perfectly running car with no errors.....done a cam and longtubes and issues galore!
Here is my question: I installed new 02's because my tuner told me mine were dead! I had made my own extensions with plugs from other sensors. I installed new sensors with my extensions and still heater circuit codes. My tuner told me that I needed to purchase extensions made for them....so I did. Installed them last night with the same new sensors and the heater circuit codes came back once again. p0135 and p0155 I think is what they were.
Can someone tell me what I need to do?
Will my tune guy be able to read from these with those codes?
Should I just put the manifolds, cats and stock cam back in it and not worry about it anymore?
The car has pacesetter coated headers, all the bolt ons with a small 224/227 563 568 cam in it. It also has a 3.5" mandrel bent y-pipe into a 3.5" spintech cat back system.....could this be the issue? Thank you all very much for your help in advance.....please give me some ideas with this thing....I can send you the program but it is in a .jcl format....I may be able to get it in a .cal file in needed
THANKS AGAIN!!
Had a perfectly running car with no errors.....done a cam and longtubes and issues galore!
Here is my question: I installed new 02's because my tuner told me mine were dead! I had made my own extensions with plugs from other sensors. I installed new sensors with my extensions and still heater circuit codes. My tuner told me that I needed to purchase extensions made for them....so I did. Installed them last night with the same new sensors and the heater circuit codes came back once again. p0135 and p0155 I think is what they were.
Can someone tell me what I need to do?
Will my tune guy be able to read from these with those codes?
Should I just put the manifolds, cats and stock cam back in it and not worry about it anymore?
The car has pacesetter coated headers, all the bolt ons with a small 224/227 563 568 cam in it. It also has a 3.5" mandrel bent y-pipe into a 3.5" spintech cat back system.....could this be the issue? Thank you all very much for your help in advance.....please give me some ideas with this thing....I can send you the program but it is in a .jcl format....I may be able to get it in a .cal file in needed
THANKS AGAIN!!
#3
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sooooo, did you splice your new o2's then unspliced them?
when you unspliced them did you resplice the original end back on to use the extensions?
either your splices are **** or you possibly burned/ damaged a wire with the header install.
buy some corvette rear 02's. NO SPLICING OR EXTENTIONS.
good luck
when you unspliced them did you resplice the original end back on to use the extensions?
either your splices are **** or you possibly burned/ damaged a wire with the header install.
buy some corvette rear 02's. NO SPLICING OR EXTENTIONS.
good luck
#4
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The new o2's have not been spliced.....no wires are near the headers....just new extensions instead of my extensions.
I drove the car for about 20 minutes and when I came back home the codes were back in it..which wire do I check for the 12v supply....I dont know what woud have changed except for the car not having much backpressure and not building enough heat.....is that something that could happen? Is there a 12v source that may be fused that could be blown or anything like that? I am just at a loss with this thing.
will the o2's still read like normal with this code? I can disable that trouble code in my software if that is a god solution.
I drove the car for about 20 minutes and when I came back home the codes were back in it..which wire do I check for the 12v supply....I dont know what woud have changed except for the car not having much backpressure and not building enough heat.....is that something that could happen? Is there a 12v source that may be fused that could be blown or anything like that? I am just at a loss with this thing.
will the o2's still read like normal with this code? I can disable that trouble code in my software if that is a god solution.
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If the4 connection is good the O2's will still read after they have warmed up from the exhaust gas. Going off memory loking at the top left pin of the o2 sensor connector the Brown (pin D) is the cource 12 volts and Black (pin C) is the ground wire.
#6
Another heater test is, with a cold engine, watch to O2 voltage with the key on, engine off. The O2 voltage should go below 200 mv in a couple of minutes. If the O2 mv doesn't drop, then check for an open in the O2 heater circuit. This is very common with lt's and its caused by moving the sensor more downstream and changing from cast iron manifold to a thin steel header. The sensor does not begin to generate it's full output until it reaches about 600 degrees F. The 02's will work just fine once the reach that temp and will have no trouble staying in closed loop. Just set dtc p0134,p0135,p0154,and p0155 to no error reported. Good luck hope this helps.
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#8
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Thanks for all your help guys, that was the answer I was looking for....car seems to run fine, just assumed the heat wasnt building fast enough due to large exhaust and headers....thanks again!
#9
Another heater test is, with a cold engine, watch to O2 voltage with the key on, engine off. The O2 voltage should go below 200 mv in a couple of minutes. If the O2 mv doesn't drop, then check for an open in the O2 heater circuit. This is very common with lt's and its caused by moving the sensor more downstream and changing from cast iron manifold to a thin steel header.
Even further with the key off the O2 isn't going to care much if it's in free air, a cast iron manifold or thin steel header.
I know it's common for the O2's to run colder in headers but it doesn't matter during a cold key on only situation. Or am I missing something?