Parasitic drain from Circuit at Fuse #7 PWR ACCY
06-08-2008, 07:23 PM
#1
Parasitic drain from Circuit at Fuse #7 PWR ACCY About a month ago, I noticed that the battery was being drained when the car was sitting, 2-3 days the battery would be dead. No changes were made to the car, no electronic, nothing new added or removed.
Using a 12v light as a test, between the neg cable and neg battery terminal, I've isolated the draw from fuse #7, which seems to be somewhat common from the searching I've been doing. But in all my searches and tests, I can not find the problem.
The manuals lists these on that fuse:
Parking Lamp Relay,
Hatch Release Relay,
Power Mirror Switch,
Radio,
Shock Sensor,
Instrument Cluster
I've pysically removed the Hatch Release Relay, Power mirror switch (all switches on both doors), Disconnected all the radio wires/hanresses, removed the shock sensor and also removed the Instrument Cluster itself. I think I've also removed the Parking Lamp relay also....And the damn test light still shows a draw!
I've also disconnected many harnesses under the dash, many various relays, and added electronics have thier power and grn lines removed, all of them.
So what gives? What could possibly be pulling juice ???
Does anyone have a scan from the service manual to show me the schematics of what is all running off of this fuse?
Using a 12v light as a test, between the neg cable and neg battery terminal, I've isolated the draw from fuse #7, which seems to be somewhat common from the searching I've been doing. But in all my searches and tests, I can not find the problem.
The manuals lists these on that fuse:
Parking Lamp Relay,
Hatch Release Relay,
Power Mirror Switch,
Radio,
Shock Sensor,
Instrument Cluster
I've pysically removed the Hatch Release Relay, Power mirror switch (all switches on both doors), Disconnected all the radio wires/hanresses, removed the shock sensor and also removed the Instrument Cluster itself. I think I've also removed the Parking Lamp relay also....And the damn test light still shows a draw!
I've also disconnected many harnesses under the dash, many various relays, and added electronics have thier power and grn lines removed, all of them.
So what gives? What could possibly be pulling juice ???
Does anyone have a scan from the service manual to show me the schematics of what is all running off of this fuse?
Last edited by Michael02hawk; 06-08-2008 at 09:11 PM.
06-09-2008, 01:30 AM
#2
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You need an multimeter, set it up for amps, to test for parasitic draw. A normal GM vehicle will have a 30 mA draw total. The multimeter should be placed on the positive side of the battery simmilar to how your test light was setup on the negative. Just be careful that nothing is left on in the car or you will pop the fuse in the meter.
06-09-2008, 04:16 PM
#5
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bassically with the meter hooked up you would pull one fuse @ a time and see what circuit is causing the draw. Overall goal is to get back to the 30mA draw. After you locate the circuit then its diag time.
06-09-2008, 07:17 PM
#6
http://www.electricgeneratorsdirect....oducts_id=1075
I've re-attaced the Neg cable to the battery, and removed the Positive.
I've attached one lead to the POS cable and the other lead to the POS battery terminal. by reading the directions I set the dial to A- at 20m and/or 200m, but I do not get any reading from the unit.
I've tried this with Fuse #7 installed and removed, same results, no readings.
Last edited by Michael02hawk; 06-09-2008 at 07:23 PM.
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06-10-2008, 02:52 PM
#10
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Yep deff not high enough. Sears accually has a cheap $20ish Meter that can read up to 20A. Thats your best bet. Start on the higher and see if there is a draw.
What you need from there is the wiriing diagram. Anything that is aftermarket to your to your car is usually a good start. Again though be sure when your doin this that you are not causing any lighting to come on or are "waking any modules" its as simple as opening a door can cause this.
What you need from there is the wiriing diagram. Anything that is aftermarket to your to your car is usually a good start. Again though be sure when your doin this that you are not causing any lighting to come on or are "waking any modules" its as simple as opening a door can cause this.
06-10-2008, 08:03 PM
#11
Yep deff not high enough. Sears accually has a cheap $20ish Meter that can read up to 20A. Thats your best bet. Start on the higher and see if there is a draw.
What you need from there is the wiriing diagram. Anything that is aftermarket to your to your car is usually a good start. Again though be sure when your doin this that you are not causing any lighting to come on or are "waking any modules" its as simple as opening a door can cause this.
What you need from there is the wiriing diagram. Anything that is aftermarket to your to your car is usually a good start. Again though be sure when your doin this that you are not causing any lighting to come on or are "waking any modules" its as simple as opening a door can cause this.
Where do I plug in the 2 leads on the multimeter?
In place of the #7 fuse, or at the POS or NEG terminal at the battery?
06-11-2008, 07:52 AM
#12
TECH Addict
You should get an inline fuse holder (Radio Shack will have 'em), pop in the fuse that the circuit takes, crimp on a faston tab and plug it into one side, connect the other side of the in-line fuse to the meter and the other side of the meter to the other pole on the fuse box. This is for testing the draw on one circuit. You risk blowing your multimeter amongst other things without some sort of fuse there, but that's up to you, really.
You can do it at the battery too but most multimeters that will measure 20A will do so unfused and so you will blow it if you're going above that, though you should not be anywhere near that with the car off. Just don't turn the car on. Not even just to accessory power mode.
You can do it at the battery too but most multimeters that will measure 20A will do so unfused and so you will blow it if you're going above that, though you should not be anywhere near that with the car off. Just don't turn the car on. Not even just to accessory power mode.
02-23-2009, 07:01 PM
#14
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I have the exact same problem that has plagued me for the last 2 years. I went out and purchased a multi-meter and on the 10A setting I get a draw of 2.3. I've replaced the stereo head unit and it did not fix the problem. It must be something else on this PWR ACCY fuse! Any help would be greatly appreciated!
Note: I tried disconnecting the head unit completely (with the fuse still in) and the multimeter registered ~.3 for a few seconds and then went to 0. What does this mean?
Note: I tried disconnecting the head unit completely (with the fuse still in) and the multimeter registered ~.3 for a few seconds and then went to 0. What does this mean?
Last edited by NewRave; 02-23-2009 at 07:42 PM.
02-25-2009, 06:20 PM
#15
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Radio will always eat a small amount of power to keep the presets. Do you have anything wired in extra beyond the factory gear?
Why these damn manfs DON'T put a NVRAM chip in to store that stuff is beyond me. Aftermarket could do it even easier and just make it a selling point.
Why these damn manfs DON'T put a NVRAM chip in to store that stuff is beyond me. Aftermarket could do it even easier and just make it a selling point.
04-19-2009, 08:16 AM
#17
Yes - I found the problem that was causing the parasitic drain! It turned out to be the IPOD adaptor from USA Spec, PA11-GM45.
This was tough to track down because USA Spec clearly states in the instructions:
* Auto Charge feature charges IPOD battery and auto stops after 1 hour of non use
That would be a great feature, except it doesnt work. The adaptor will continue to charge the IPOD, eventually draining the cars battery to the point of not being able to start after 2-3 days of non use.
I contacted USA Spec about this, they updated my firmware and had me re-wire the plug-n-play harness. The re-wire runs a an ignition switched line from the fuse box to the adaptor. Completely cutting of all power to the adaptor/IPOD each time the car is shut off.
Your problem sounds completely different than mine.
Good luck with the troubleshooting though.
This was tough to track down because USA Spec clearly states in the instructions:
* Auto Charge feature charges IPOD battery and auto stops after 1 hour of non use
That would be a great feature, except it doesnt work. The adaptor will continue to charge the IPOD, eventually draining the cars battery to the point of not being able to start after 2-3 days of non use.
I contacted USA Spec about this, they updated my firmware and had me re-wire the plug-n-play harness. The re-wire runs a an ignition switched line from the fuse box to the adaptor. Completely cutting of all power to the adaptor/IPOD each time the car is shut off.
Good luck with the troubleshooting though.
04-19-2009, 10:29 AM
#18
You need an multimeter, set it up for amps, to test for parasitic draw. A normal GM vehicle will have a 30 mA draw total. The multimeter should be placed on the positive side of the battery simmilar to how your test light was setup on the negative. Just be careful that nothing is left on in the car or you will pop the fuse in the meter.
a test-light is not a good way to test for a drain.
Can you log your battery voltage while driving?
I had an issue with voltage dipping/spiking and had to replace my alt.
