If you did your own fuel system, please come in
06-11-2008, 12:51 PM
#1
If you did your own fuel system, please come in I need to get this stuff ordered...decided to run a new fuel line since mine has a rubber hose spliced into the middle of it.
I'm going to run stock pickup for my car, vette filter, and walbro pump, return line to tank.
I was thinking aluminum fuel line (25ft roll) is there any reason to use something else?
What size line would be best? 3/8" or 5/16" or something else?
I need fittings for:
pickup to line (EFI rubber line?)
line to pump (EFI rubber from pickup directly to pump?)
pump to line (RUS 66046 flare to 6AN?)
line to filter (RUS 639210?)
filter to line (RUS 640850?)
line to ruel rail (RUS 640850?)
filter to return line (RUS 639210?)
line to tank (RUS670850? fuel cell bulkhead)
I guess I also need tube nuts and/or sleeves, but I don't understand the difference, both show the same pic in summit.
Not a show car, just need it to work and work right.
I'm going to run stock pickup for my car, vette filter, and walbro pump, return line to tank.
I was thinking aluminum fuel line (25ft roll) is there any reason to use something else?
What size line would be best? 3/8" or 5/16" or something else?
I need fittings for:
pickup to line (EFI rubber line?)
line to pump (EFI rubber from pickup directly to pump?)
pump to line (RUS 66046 flare to 6AN?)
line to filter (RUS 639210?)
filter to line (RUS 640850?)
line to ruel rail (RUS 640850?)
filter to return line (RUS 639210?)
line to tank (RUS670850? fuel cell bulkhead)
I guess I also need tube nuts and/or sleeves, but I don't understand the difference, both show the same pic in summit.
Not a show car, just need it to work and work right.
Last edited by thunderstruck507; 06-11-2008 at 02:46 PM.
06-11-2008, 01:41 PM
#3
I have 3/8" aluminum on mine. I had the system with the old LT1 engine and now with the LS whatcha ma callit I am running now with no issues. The AN fittings are nice but the aluminum to rubber is still a compression fitting. You could flare the lines (nicest thing about aluminum). If you use aluminum, make sure you use the rubber isolated clamps to secure it to the frame rails so you don't get rub throughs and corrosion.
06-11-2008, 02:08 PM
#6
I have the last 3 feet to the engine braided rubber so flex with engine movement.
I made my own baffle in my fuel tank when I built the car. I put a new tank in so it wasn't a big deal at the time. Rock Valley makes FI tanks and I believe that an Imala SS tank will fit between your frame rails.
I made my own baffle in my fuel tank when I built the car. I put a new tank in so it wasn't a big deal at the time. Rock Valley makes FI tanks and I believe that an Imala SS tank will fit between your frame rails.
06-11-2008, 02:08 PM
#7
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why doesnt anyone use the s10 2.2 flex fuel fuel filter? its the same thing as the vette filter except its cheaper and uses a quick disconnect on the motor side like it uses on the fuel tank side of the vette filter.
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06-11-2008, 02:34 PM
#9
I will be building a sump within the new tank I buy before it goes in. The return line will dump into this area as well.
Right now I'm just confused on the line fittings...for some reason I can't get a good visual in my head of what I need because I've never done this before.
Do I need 2 connectors at each point? One for the line and one for what I'm attaching, because that's how it seems.
Right now I'm just confused on the line fittings...for some reason I can't get a good visual in my head of what I need because I've never done this before.
Do I need 2 connectors at each point? One for the line and one for what I'm attaching, because that's how it seems.
06-11-2008, 11:53 PM
#13
From my experience with high performance plumbing, i'd suggest you do this:
sump the tank, or install an in-tank fuel pump, with bulkheads on the outside of the fuelpump for supply and return. -6 (or 8) for feed, -4 or -6 for return (its easy and "neat" in my opinion to make them both the same size.
Run braided lines with female -an hose ends on each end (one female, one male)
run hardline (3/8 aluminum will work), i prefer SS (which takes some skill to flare right), but both are fine. ALWAYS remember to put your sleeve AND tube nut on before you flare. It sucks to have a perfectly bent, correct length stretch of tubing flare perfectly only to realize in horror that the tube %^&* nut was laying on the ground or on backwards and you're going to have to re-do the whole $%^& stretch.. Take a second to think twice and three times. I'm serious.
anyways, run the pair of hardlines up the frame where desired, and put tube sleeves and nuts on. Switch back to braided once you clear the firewall. I braced my hardlines every few inches with clamps, you have to remember that things flex and rubbing could be catastrophic. (here's where I like stainless more.. it is MUCH more resistant to abrasion, doesn't corrode, and a good hard smack on something unexpected will ding it rather than rip a hole in it like AL will.) hello fire.
Tie into the hardlines on each end (tube nuts of which are female)
with Male -6 hose ends, and from there proceed the pair to your regulator, and then to your fuel rail.
sump the tank, or install an in-tank fuel pump, with bulkheads on the outside of the fuelpump for supply and return. -6 (or 8) for feed, -4 or -6 for return (its easy and "neat" in my opinion to make them both the same size.
Run braided lines with female -an hose ends on each end (one female, one male)
run hardline (3/8 aluminum will work), i prefer SS (which takes some skill to flare right), but both are fine. ALWAYS remember to put your sleeve AND tube nut on before you flare. It sucks to have a perfectly bent, correct length stretch of tubing flare perfectly only to realize in horror that the tube %^&* nut was laying on the ground or on backwards and you're going to have to re-do the whole $%^& stretch.. Take a second to think twice and three times. I'm serious.
anyways, run the pair of hardlines up the frame where desired, and put tube sleeves and nuts on. Switch back to braided once you clear the firewall. I braced my hardlines every few inches with clamps, you have to remember that things flex and rubbing could be catastrophic. (here's where I like stainless more.. it is MUCH more resistant to abrasion, doesn't corrode, and a good hard smack on something unexpected will ding it rather than rip a hole in it like AL will.) hello fire.
Tie into the hardlines on each end (tube nuts of which are female)
with Male -6 hose ends, and from there proceed the pair to your regulator, and then to your fuel rail.
06-12-2008, 05:42 AM
#15
I used 90-10 copper nickle hard lines. Expensive but very easy to work with and much stronger and corrosion resistant than aluminum. Stainless is pretty non-forgiving, especially if you don't have high quality tools. Aluminum needs to be properly supported or it can crack from repeated movement.
I used the Russel compression tube to AN fittings at the ends of all the hardlines, with their AN braided hose for the last couple of feet to the motor/tank. Once again not cheap but pretty bullet proof.
I used the Russel compression tube to AN fittings at the ends of all the hardlines, with their AN braided hose for the last couple of feet to the motor/tank. Once again not cheap but pretty bullet proof.
06-12-2008, 01:08 PM
#16
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Repro factory-style hard lines. I got mine from Rick's, but I think Inline Tube makes them for most cars. Cut the hose barbs off and use compression to AN fittings. I'm partial to Swagelok for compression fittings, but the Russell ones seem to work fine for lots of people. I really like the Aeroquip socketless hose and fittings for the soft lines.
06-12-2008, 06:00 PM
#17
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id disagree with -4 line, thats what alot of people use for brake lines, ive never seen it as a fuel line (feed or return).....also if you're going the AN fitting route, when you do your flares, flare them to 37* not the car standard of 45*...
