ryanvv355

iTrader: (17)

As title reads, any opinions as to running the whole fuel system with Earls, Aeroquip or Russel socketless lines and connectors?

Pop N Wood

iTrader: (1)

Besides the cost it will work fine. I think they look nicer than the braided hose too. Definitely better than hose clamps

Old Geezer

iTrader: (3)

Have done several street rods w/ Aero. No problems to report. Some have been running near 10 yrs w/ it.

stealth71

iTrader: (15)

That's what I'm installing, but not running yet. Heard it's good stuff.

Rodder

iTrader: (2)

All my soft lines are Aeroquip socketless. I've put 1200mi on the car since 1/07, no problems. I've only heard of 1 guy ever having problems with the socketless hose, and the consensus is that he screwed it up installing the fittings: https://ls1tech.com/forums/fueling-injection/934214-aeroquip-socketless-hose-fc598-anyone-else-issues.html

LS1GMCTruck

iTrader: (2)

Used the Eaton-AeroQuip Push-Lok also, works well. Hose is #FC-332-6 for the blue -6(3/8"). Its also available in black, which is #2556-6. Used it at the Vette FPR & radiator/tranny cooler connections.

ryanvv355

iTrader: (17)

Cool guys, thanks, socketless it is.

Horsepwraddict

iTrader: (12)

im running it also. Good luck so far.

Carshopinc.com

iTrader: (5)

Use the black socketless, the blue works fine but is just plain ugly!

ssduane

iTrader: (3)

I'll be going all black and stainless hoses on mine with a $350 price tag for all the parts.

ryanvv355

iTrader: (17)

Me too, black and stainless

01WS6/tamu

iTrader: (37)

I'm running socketless russell fittings on my s10. The only difference I have noticed is that I am not digging wire braid out of my fingers and it was ton easier to install.

65SSZO6

iTrader: (4)

Socketless was the best part of my fuel system upgrade.Used 3/8" to 6AN versa-flares from hard lines at the fuel rail to the 6an and from the 3/8 hardline just back of the firewall.Can not remember if they were Aeroquip or Russell?

Compressor Surge

iTrader: (21)

Using socketless here for fuel and tranny cooler lines. Works GREAT, and was super easy to assemble. I've got a few thousand miles on my swap, no problems or leaks.

Old Geezer

iTrader: (3)

Just saw a post on another board, concerning the Parker "pushlok" hose.
"I just made up AN hoses for a TTA. Be SURE you blow a string through the hose after you install the ends, and tie a gun cleaning patch to the end of the string and dip it into laquer thinner and pull it through the hose. Repeat this untill the patch comes through clean. Then repeat a few more times. Aftermarket braided hose is VERY dirty inside. After you install the fittings, use a bright flashlight and look inside for flappers. I prefere Russel fittings over the cutter type Earls fittings. (incidentally Earls is a division of Parkers, so most hydraulic shops can get Earls at a decent price) Personal preference."
The poster also stated:
"If you use Push-lock hose, be sure it is rated for gasoline. Parker Push-lock hose is NOT rated for gasoline. It will work, but must be periodically inspected. Some folks are complaining about fuel vapor in thier garages when using braided steel AN hose, too. The only way to completely eliminate fuel vapors from escaping AN hose it to use TFE (teflon) external braid hose.

Reading these posts, indicates to me that the Earls "pushlok" hose may not be fuel compatible?? [The Earls website has about 8 different hose choices listed.]
NE1 know for sure??
I use ONLY the Aeroquip stuff, and have no problems w/ it.

Andy1

I'm using the socketless (Twist Tite) hose from Summit. It is rated for fuel/oil.

Andy1

Horsepwraddict

iTrader: (12)

my entire system is Summit brand. Works fine but I noticed some weird slime stuff under the hose clamps im using to secure it to the frame on its way from the fuel cell to the engine compartment. Im pretty sure its just from the rubber on the clamps, but weird nontheless.

PS. I always blow new lines out with compressed air before installing them.