RaceCraft Spindles and Wilwood Brakes
06-23-2008, 11:17 AM
#1
RaceCraft Spindles and Wilwood Brakes Previously, I had a set of Wilwood Big Brakes on the car and since I am now a little more drag oriented, I sold the Big brakes and picked up a set of Race Craft spindles/Pro Street brakes.
The plan is to keep the car streetable and save some weight off the front of the car. The Race Craft spindles utilize the third gen brake setup, which means there are many more options to choose from in the form of brake kits. I choose Wilwood's Pro Street vented rotor four piston caliper kit. Its made for heavy cars 3000#s and up. I'd say its probly over kill for me, but its a nice match to the brakes I have on the back of the car.
The Race Craft Spindles also lower the front of the car by 2", and are lighter than the factory spindles. Both a Bonus for drag racing!
Pictures of the RaceCraft Spindles:
First Impression, These things are BEEFY! There is absolutly no compromise on strength with these. This part has to be as strong or stronger than the factory part. The Steel plate is 1/2" thick, the spindle is pressed in and welded, the welds are precise. The powder coating is thick and very durable.
The Install is very easy too.
First you need to disconnect the brake line to the caliper and either plug the line or let it drain into a container. Then you remove the three cotter pins and remove the outer tie rod end nut, upper A-arm nut, and Lower A-arm nut. Then to loosen the ball joints from the factory spindle, hit the factory spindle near each joint. That usually jars them enough to be able to disconnect them from the spindle. Once all of the ball joints are loose, you swing the outer tie rod end down and out of the way, lift up on the upper a-arm and then lift the factory spindle and remove it with the brake/caliper/rotor all as one piece.
The installation is just as easy, just lift the RaceCraft spindle, set it on the lower ball joint, then pull the upper a-arm down and put the ball joint nuts on. Reconnect the outer tie rod end. Tighten the three nuts and reinstall the cotter pins.
Now you install the new brakes per the installation instructions provided.
I picked a set of Wilwood brakes. The installation was very easy, just following the instructions. Basically, assemble the new hubs and rotors, attach the new bracket to the spindle, then put the hub/rotor on the spindle, followed by the new caliper and pads.
What I started with:
I dissasembled the rotor/caliper before removing the factory spindle, but if you follow my instructions above, you don't have too.
Here you see the new RaceCraft spindle installed:
Now with the Rotor/Hub assembly installed:
And the finished product:
Things of mention:
1. The brake kit I chose, moves the wheel out about 1" from factory. This has nothing to do with the spindles, its just the design of the wilwoods. The Strange brake kit the RaceCraft sells puts the wheel at the factory deminsion.
2. As with many aftermarket suspension items, a good alignment should be accomplished after the install.
3. I didn't weigh anything before or after so I don't have a definative weight savings. I figured with my non-stock brake system it wouldn't be a good comparison. I will say that the new setup is definately lighter though!
The plan is to keep the car streetable and save some weight off the front of the car. The Race Craft spindles utilize the third gen brake setup, which means there are many more options to choose from in the form of brake kits. I choose Wilwood's Pro Street vented rotor four piston caliper kit. Its made for heavy cars 3000#s and up. I'd say its probly over kill for me, but its a nice match to the brakes I have on the back of the car.
The Race Craft Spindles also lower the front of the car by 2", and are lighter than the factory spindles. Both a Bonus for drag racing!
Pictures of the RaceCraft Spindles:
First Impression, These things are BEEFY! There is absolutly no compromise on strength with these. This part has to be as strong or stronger than the factory part. The Steel plate is 1/2" thick, the spindle is pressed in and welded, the welds are precise. The powder coating is thick and very durable.
The Install is very easy too.
First you need to disconnect the brake line to the caliper and either plug the line or let it drain into a container. Then you remove the three cotter pins and remove the outer tie rod end nut, upper A-arm nut, and Lower A-arm nut. Then to loosen the ball joints from the factory spindle, hit the factory spindle near each joint. That usually jars them enough to be able to disconnect them from the spindle. Once all of the ball joints are loose, you swing the outer tie rod end down and out of the way, lift up on the upper a-arm and then lift the factory spindle and remove it with the brake/caliper/rotor all as one piece.
The installation is just as easy, just lift the RaceCraft spindle, set it on the lower ball joint, then pull the upper a-arm down and put the ball joint nuts on. Reconnect the outer tie rod end. Tighten the three nuts and reinstall the cotter pins.
Now you install the new brakes per the installation instructions provided.
I picked a set of Wilwood brakes. The installation was very easy, just following the instructions. Basically, assemble the new hubs and rotors, attach the new bracket to the spindle, then put the hub/rotor on the spindle, followed by the new caliper and pads.
What I started with:
I dissasembled the rotor/caliper before removing the factory spindle, but if you follow my instructions above, you don't have too.
Here you see the new RaceCraft spindle installed:
Now with the Rotor/Hub assembly installed:
And the finished product:
Things of mention:
1. The brake kit I chose, moves the wheel out about 1" from factory. This has nothing to do with the spindles, its just the design of the wilwoods. The Strange brake kit the RaceCraft sells puts the wheel at the factory deminsion.
2. As with many aftermarket suspension items, a good alignment should be accomplished after the install.
3. I didn't weigh anything before or after so I don't have a definative weight savings. I figured with my non-stock brake system it wouldn't be a good comparison. I will say that the new setup is definately lighter though!
