BLASTER

iTrader: (4)

Scanned my car today because I was getting an SES light.

I have HP tuners and noticed the IAT guage showed up "red" . The IATs were around 111 degrees. It was about 80 degrees out so I'd expect it to be somewhere around there.

Why is the gauge "red" ?

foff667

iTrader: (2)

Our help files are packed full of helpful information in regards to our product http://www.hptuners.com/help/vcm_sca...lays_gauge.htm

GETUSUMM

Same problem here.

BLASTER

iTrader: (4)

ok thanks. I guess I can change the alert value.

Is 111 n abnormally high value for IATs?

pasbonsimon

iTrader: (12)

is there a way to get those IAT temps down? Is this temp read inside the lid?

jimmyblue

iTrader: (11)

IAT is probably pushed by heat-soak from the engine
bay through the lid / neck / MAF wall (depending on
setup). It should slide on down to ambient + 5-10F
when you're rolling but it'll dog you for a while, off
the line.

Some people relocate it to out of the engine bay
and air path. I'm fixing to, myself since IAT seems
to kick my fueling around a lot.

Pharcyde50

iTrader: (11)

I see high iat while i'm sitting usually also. The iat just gets heatsoaked. How are you thinking of remounting? I'm using the iat in the 85mm maf.

Scott

RedWS6 00

I've moved mine to the entrance of the air filter, so you can actually see it if you bend down with the hood up. This has helps with the heat soaking readings. I have the whisper lid and the IAT was mounted right above the radiator (dumb place if you ask me)
Some people say mounting it in the intake would give good (true) results, but I was reluctant to drill a hole in the intake for it.

CALL911

iTrader: (17)

Personally, I think the best place for the sensor is right before the TB but after the MAF. In the intake will be too hot, before the MAF will be too cold. It needs to serve its purpose to accuratly read your IAT's.

YellowToy/A

iTrader: (1)

I have move my sensor 4 times. The radiator is the problem. I think that sensor need to be in the airflow but below the radiator. I found that the best spot is in the plastic part in front of the radiator, down low. Run ur car then let is idle a few minutes. Find a place that does not heat up. Anything near or above the radiator will get hot. I just added wire to get to the place that I wanted to mount the sensor. I have a scan gage and monitor mine alot. That location works well.

CALL911

iTrader: (17)

It's purpose is to sense the air temperature entering your engine. It's big role in the FI world is to take a detromental measurement letting you know how close you might be coming to detonation.

You will not want it down that low IMO if you want an accurate reading. It needs to be above the radiator, preferrably in the elbow before the TB to get the most accurate readings. Sure the other locations will show cooler temps, but they won't be accurate. Thats like having your coolant temp gauge in the glove box. Its going to show things nice and cool, but it's not going to show you the temperature you need to know.

Frost

iTrader: (45)

that sounds great until you really start to look at the issue. The real issue is that with it under the hood, the radiant heat in the bay soaks into the sensor body causing it to read very falsely high. This error is much greater than if the sensor were to be relocated. It is the sole detractor from OLSD for many. The bias table helps, but there is no way to describe and account for heat soak vs. actual IAT.

CALL911

iTrader: (17)

Thats why it shouldn't be in or near the intake iteslf. Personally I would rather have it read slightly higher and be a more accurate tool reading on the safe side, than one telling me that things are cooler than they really are before the air goes into the intake. Right before the TB will not yeild the same heat soaking that the intake will, but it will read the air just as it goes into the TB. The elbow is rubber, so its not going to be surrounded by metal that can head it up.

YellowToy/A

iTrader: (1)

Sorry call911. Air flows in the middle of a pipe. The air going in a NA engine is just about the same temp as outside air. The pipe will heat soaks the sensor. That in turn makes the ECU calulation wrong. IAT should be just about outside air temp. If you do not want to believe me please put thermal couples and measure the temp. Please do not talk about what you have not measured. The temp that you want to measure is air flow in the middle of the pipe.

CALL911

iTrader: (17)

The pipe is rubber (unless you have an aftermarket metal one). And true, an FI setup will create more heat. And "yes" that is what you are measuring is the air flow temp before it goes into your engine. You are also correct by saying a sensor placed outside the engine bay will give cooler temp readings, but then again, your air before it goes into your motor is not coming from outside, it goes through the same pipe we are talking about before it goes into your motor. Will it be more warm than the air itself? Yes. But not as warm as one located in the intake, and IMO more accurate than one placed outside the engine bay below the radiator.

Frost

iTrader: (45)

Drive for a half hour. Sit still for 10 mins idling. Cut the car off and go put your hand on the rubber/plastic/whatever you want. Feel that? It's not the same as the outside air temperature, but at low airflow, that's what will be reported, and it will not be accurate. At steady throttle even though the sensor reads 117-120-whatever degF, the air in the pipe is near ambient. Tuning on Friday I had a car reach 110degF IAT idling, but you can bet the outside 50deg air was not 110deg coming into the intake. The sensor read that high from being in a hot engine compartment and it causes the fueling to wander off if in OL and if CL, you see it when the trims wander off in response.

This is a long-debated issue (how to deal with it).

CALL911

iTrader: (17)

Thanks for the info. I haven't really checked into it much on my N/A Formula, as I have on my supercharged Z. My Z has its IAT sensor in a metal elbow right before the TB, and I can go rail on it on a hot summer day, and at idle my IAT's were within 5-10 degrees of the outside air temperature. Figuring this is on a boosted setup, within a metal elbow, it just would seem that an N/A setup would run even cooler.