Replacing shocks - a few tips.
06-30-2008, 10:14 PM
#1
Replacing shocks - a few tips. Well after getting an estimate of $180 to install my new KYB front shocks, I decided to just do it myself. I won’t rehash the entire install, obviously a search will give you good ideas, but I used the info in this link:
http://www.ls1howto.com/index.php?article=6
I only installed shocks but it’s basically an all or nothing deal with the fronts since you have to take the entire unit out. Here are a few suggestions I’d like to add:
1. If you’re thinking about replacing the shocks first, then the springs later, I suggest you wait and do it all at one time.
2. I would suggest that if you’ve put off buying metric ratchet wrenches, now’s the time to go out and buy at least 13mm and 15mm sizes because you will use them a lot.
3. Don’t try to get away with not removing the sway bar link. You may get the shock/spring out without removing the link, but you’ll never get it back in unless you go with a shorter spring.
4. Be prepared to buy new sway bar link parts. Those are the only parts I broke.
5. If you’re worried about compressing the spring yourself, NAPA will do it for you for $25 a pair. Just make sure you show them exactly how the new shocks should mount.
6. I think I read somewhere that on the KYB adjustable shocks, the **** goes inside. Well, not on mine, the only way they would work was toward the outside. The bottom mounting bar on the shock WILL NOT turn so you have to make sure you get it right or you’ll be going back to NAPA to redo them. Also, make sure you tell the NAPA guys to go easy on the rubber mount or you’ll be buying new ones at $90 a pop.
7. Yes, you have to take off the brake fluid reservoir to get one of the torx bolts. Don’t worry, you don’t have to disconnect the lines, just remove the two bolts, carefully pull the reservoir towards the front of the car and move it to the side a little. If you try to do it without moving it, you may strip the bolt head.
I also did the back. VERY easy to do.
1. Since I didn’t change the springs, I didn’t even have to take the rear tires off.
2. You don’t have to cut the carpet or remove the seat latch bolts. Just remove the rear side panels and pull the carpet forward.
3. Try to find a small wrench that fits the tip of the shock. Much better than using a locking pliers. I think I screwed up the threads one of the shocks when the pliers slipped.
I estimate that you can do the fronts in less than three hours if everything goes well and you let NAPA do the spring work. The rears really shouldn’t take more than an hour total. If you have air tools, I bet you can cut both times in half.
So there you go. For less than $30 labor, all shocks replaced. That’s $150 in my pocket and I learned a little bit more about my car.
http://www.ls1howto.com/index.php?article=6
I only installed shocks but it’s basically an all or nothing deal with the fronts since you have to take the entire unit out. Here are a few suggestions I’d like to add:
1. If you’re thinking about replacing the shocks first, then the springs later, I suggest you wait and do it all at one time.
2. I would suggest that if you’ve put off buying metric ratchet wrenches, now’s the time to go out and buy at least 13mm and 15mm sizes because you will use them a lot.
3. Don’t try to get away with not removing the sway bar link. You may get the shock/spring out without removing the link, but you’ll never get it back in unless you go with a shorter spring.
4. Be prepared to buy new sway bar link parts. Those are the only parts I broke.
5. If you’re worried about compressing the spring yourself, NAPA will do it for you for $25 a pair. Just make sure you show them exactly how the new shocks should mount.
6. I think I read somewhere that on the KYB adjustable shocks, the **** goes inside. Well, not on mine, the only way they would work was toward the outside. The bottom mounting bar on the shock WILL NOT turn so you have to make sure you get it right or you’ll be going back to NAPA to redo them. Also, make sure you tell the NAPA guys to go easy on the rubber mount or you’ll be buying new ones at $90 a pop.
7. Yes, you have to take off the brake fluid reservoir to get one of the torx bolts. Don’t worry, you don’t have to disconnect the lines, just remove the two bolts, carefully pull the reservoir towards the front of the car and move it to the side a little. If you try to do it without moving it, you may strip the bolt head.
I also did the back. VERY easy to do.
1. Since I didn’t change the springs, I didn’t even have to take the rear tires off.
2. You don’t have to cut the carpet or remove the seat latch bolts. Just remove the rear side panels and pull the carpet forward.
3. Try to find a small wrench that fits the tip of the shock. Much better than using a locking pliers. I think I screwed up the threads one of the shocks when the pliers slipped.
I estimate that you can do the fronts in less than three hours if everything goes well and you let NAPA do the spring work. The rears really shouldn’t take more than an hour total. If you have air tools, I bet you can cut both times in half.
So there you go. For less than $30 labor, all shocks replaced. That’s $150 in my pocket and I learned a little bit more about my car.
07-01-2008, 09:55 AM
#3
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Otherwise, I agree with your write-up. I ran into the same issues.
-Mike
07-01-2008, 10:10 AM
#4
Also, let me add that you can 'rent' tools from Autozone (or at least you can at the 2 stores in my town). Not many people know this. I rented a set of spring compressors for $40. Use them and take them back and get a full refund. This is very handy when you know you'll only use a tool once.
My AGX's **** mounted to the inside - I wasn't sure if that was right or wrong but I don't think it would matter as long as there is plenty of clearance for the **** to travel with the shock.
My AGX's **** mounted to the inside - I wasn't sure if that was right or wrong but I don't think it would matter as long as there is plenty of clearance for the **** to travel with the shock.
07-01-2008, 10:47 AM
#5
I agree, and I did this when I installed my KYB GasAJust shocks. However, for my Konis, I used the "trap doors" in the carpet, because I knew I would want to be able to easily adjust them in the future. I'm not sure where the adjuster is on the AGX's, but if it's on top, it may be easier to just use the trap doors.
Otherwise, I agree with your write-up. I ran into the same issues.
-Mike
Otherwise, I agree with your write-up. I ran into the same issues.
-Mike
07-01-2008, 11:24 AM
#7
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I may also add that if you get stuck on something (i.e. breaking the spindle loose from the ball joint) or taking the rusted shock bolt off of the upper shock mount, just take a break and go back to it. I had my friend help me who has been through the agony of suspension swaps before, and he knew how to chill out and get things done. I would also rent the ball joint separator from autozone ($10 deposit), that broke the spindles loose very easily. And triple check that each bolt is tight, or else. 
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07-01-2008, 11:40 AM
#8
I may also add that if you get stuck on something (i.e. breaking the spindle loose from the ball joint) or taking the rusted shock bolt off of the upper shock mount, just take a break and go back to it. I had my friend help me who has been through the agony of suspension swaps before, and he knew how to chill out and get things done. I would also rent the ball joint separator from autozone ($10 deposit), that broke the spindles loose very easily. And triple check that each bolt is tight, or else.
07-01-2008, 03:49 PM
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I'll also add, if you're using an impact wrench to work the spring compressors (debatable safety in and of itself), make sure your friend who is helping doesn't have his hand on the threads while he's holding everything up.
Sliced his hands up pretty good. Sorry, Dennis.
-Mike
Sliced his hands up pretty good. Sorry, Dennis.
-Mike
