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F... installed new altenator and it didn't fix my problem!

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Old 07-01-2008, 11:35 PM
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Default F... installed new altenator and it didn't fix my problem!

Damn it to hell... Been havin this low voltage problem for a little while now. The car reads normal voltage but once it warms up it pretty much is running off the battery and hovers in the 12.0-13.0 volt range. Drive it even longer and it'll dip into the 11's. Figured it'd be the altenator right? Wrong

Changed the altenator tonight and its doin the same thing. Assuming the voltage regulator is built into the new altenator, I'm guessing this is not the problem. What gives?

Last edited by Brian2006; 07-02-2008 at 09:07 AM.
Old 07-02-2008, 12:03 PM
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could be a bad ground or a crap connection somewhere... do you have a voltmeter. i would start by measuring voltage at the alternator
Old 07-02-2008, 03:41 PM
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Originally Posted by pentavolvo
could be a bad ground or a crap connection somewhere... do you have a voltmeter. i would start by measuring voltage at the alternator
Yeah I'm gonna do that after work. measure it under load I presume? I doubt it's the altenator anyways, the thing is new and maybe has 1 minute of ideling on it
Old 07-02-2008, 05:32 PM
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I had sorta the same problem as you but I argued against refurb'd pos alts and got a new new one, are you sure its a brand new one?
Old 07-02-2008, 06:22 PM
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I had the same problem a few months ago. I replaced the original, and the replacement was bad. Had to do it twice before I got one that would work. Both of them were AC Delco. So it's possible you did get a bad one.
Old 07-02-2008, 06:37 PM
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rebuilt are actelly better , they are rebilt in usa and new are from where? china or taiwan think aboutt that

and i tried 3 different brrands from delco autto zone and this place by my shop

i blew ouot 6 of them in 2 weeks.
the problem? nott enough amps

auutozone amps for our car 00 5.7-102 amps ****
delco is like 135 i think
i ordered my 200 amp alterrnator today for like 299
this shouold do it and checck everything after i went WOT they blow
Old 07-02-2008, 09:24 PM
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Pretty sure the problem is NOT the altenator. I just had the old one tested and it passed everything
Old 07-02-2008, 11:29 PM
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Have you had your battery tested? Also see if your battery cables are clean.
Old 07-03-2008, 12:22 AM
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Is the new alt a HO alt? If so did you do the big 3 uograde?
Old 07-03-2008, 06:52 AM
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Originally Posted by The Guz
Have you had your battery tested? Also see if your battery cables are clean.
Battery was tested and was said to be fine. However I'm considering throwing the battery from my truck in there just to verify.

Altenator is a remanufactured 102amp factory replacement. But like I said, the old altenator was said to be just fine. Big 3 upgrade is probably my next option in case I have resistance in the ground connections and/or altenator power wire. Is it necessary to upgrade to 0awg on the altenator? I have stinger 4awg layin around here
Old 07-03-2008, 08:08 AM
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I wish I knew what the big 3 was and how to do it :\
Old 07-03-2008, 08:20 AM
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Originally Posted by Dimitri-
I wish I knew what the big 3 was and how to do it :\
I think someone did a write up in here so just search "big 3"
Old 07-03-2008, 08:50 AM
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Big 3 is chaging your battery/alternator/grounds wires to bigger wire, I recent did this with a 200a alt and I run steady at 14+ volts. There is a kit available pm for info as they are a non sponser.
Old 07-03-2008, 08:57 AM
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A local guy had a similar problem, and it ended up being a bad connection inside the plug that goes into the alternator. He found it by wiggling the pigtail, it wouldn't charge well at all if he didn't touch it, but as soon as he lifted up on it, it went to full voltage. Might not be your problem, but it's free and worth a shot.
Old 07-03-2008, 09:12 AM
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I'm leaning towards a bad ground/ loose connection somewhere on the plug to the alternator. My car still has a factory alternator and I am at 13.4 - 13.8 volts at idle.
Old 07-03-2008, 12:11 PM
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4ga is fine for big3
Old 07-03-2008, 12:33 PM
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brian does your battery light work?? it uses the the 194 bulb as a fuse oddly enough and the resistance on that bulb is what actually excites the alternator if im not mistaken, there is one only one wire on the alt plug if im not mistaken, but there are 4 pins on the connector one requires the bulb and one is a self protected one so you wont blow the alt. depends on what vehicle is how gm did that i think. anyway doesnt sound like a bad alt sounds like its loosing its signal that tells it to charge.

i know most of this becasue of the v6 swap i did and the pan in the *** i had trying to get mine to charge i ended up wiring it to switched ignition through the protected circuit on the alt. i might give that a shot
Old 07-03-2008, 01:21 PM
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Originally Posted by blackbyrd
brian does your battery light work?? it uses the the 194 bulb as a fuse oddly enough and the resistance on that bulb is what actually excites the alternator if im not mistaken, there is one only one wire on the alt plug if im not mistaken, but there are 4 pins on the connector one requires the bulb and one is a self protected one so you wont blow the alt. depends on what vehicle is how gm did that i think. anyway doesnt sound like a bad alt sounds like its loosing its signal that tells it to charge.

i know most of this becasue of the v6 swap i did and the pan in the *** i had trying to get mine to charge i ended up wiring it to switched ignition through the protected circuit on the alt. i might give that a shot
The battery light? Which battery light? The one in the cluster???
Old 07-03-2008, 01:23 PM
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yeah as creazy as it sounds the one in the cluster
Old 07-03-2008, 08:03 PM
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Originally Posted by blackbyrd
yeah as creazy as it sounds the one in the cluster
ummm still confused which one. The actual bulb? All my bulbs in my cluster work. 5 of them are LEDs in fact. And I'm gonna assume you're talking about the voltmeter light which in fact does work (and is an LED)



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