LS1GMCTruck

iTrader: (2)

ARP doesn't seem to offer a water pump stud kit for an LS1. Who does? Thanks

98blackSS

Why would you need that?

LS1GMCTruck

iTrader: (2)

For the same reasons my heads, exhaust, etc., are studed...superior torque capability & control and load distribution, ease of installation/removal with positive alignment, and much less aluminum block thread damage, which I'm beginning to experience. Have a clue who makes them?

98blackSS

Interesting.. You're the first I've ever seen looking for them honestly. In all the LS motors I've done over the years with countless WP removal/installations, it's never even crossed my mind. What kind of block damage are you experiencing exactly? Not sure I understand the head and exhaust analogy in this particular example, but whatever works best for you.

stevieturbo

Its only a water pump....just how tight do you think those small bolts need to be ???

If the threads get damaged, its entirely the builders fault. And that isnt something that would happen easily !!!! They really dont need to be tight at all.

LS1GMCTruck

iTrader: (2)

Its a habit of mine, using studs when possible in aluminum blocks. I get it from being in the Mercury Hi-Performance V-6 Outboard & marine manufacturing business for 25+ years. Its a service/durability thing. There aren't very many of them that hold the pump on, guess I'll just measure what I need & buy them from my stainless fastener sources....Thanks

Lilscottie

In my ARP catalog. They've got bolt kits, no studs:

GM III/LS Series small block water pump bolts with thermostat housing bolts

Black Oxide:

Hex: 134-3201
12-Point: 134-3202

Stainless 300:

Hex: 434-3201
12-Point: 434-3202

Hope this helps.

It is better to be safe than sorry fellas.

JxxxOxxxE

iTrader: (1)

I can see why you would want these...I've had one or 2 bolts break while removing the water pump before. Drilling them out is no fun....I upgraded to ARP stainless bolts, but never thought about doing studs. Seems like there might be come clearance issues between the radiator, and the studs, for getting the pump on...

Ackattack1

iTrader: (7)

Can you go to a bolt supply place and get some all thread and make your own?

I just wonder if you'll run into problems with a belt running close to them. Not real sure where the belt is in respect to the bolts, just something to look at.

98blackSS

Unless those bolts were way over torqued when installed, I can't see any logical reason for them breaking.

11ft/lb first pass and then 22ft/lb on install. It's not much.. Leave the impact gun on the work bench guys.. damn

And if you can't thread the bolts in all the way by hand, stop and clean out the threads.

TJ

iTrader: (10)

if it doesnt hit a bolt head, it shouldnt hit a nut on the end of a correct length stud.

Stu Cool

iTrader: (13)

Also remember to use anti-sieze when putting any bolt, or stud, into aluminum.

Pat

loweredd

iTrader: (2)

I've got studs in mine. They came with the Synister serpentine kit. They were a little too short for the threaded standoffs I have to screw onto them. I am going to make some new ones with metric allthread. They are an M8x1.25. The ones I have are like 95mm and 105mm, but need about 120mm, so I will just cut some new ones.

exodus

iTrader: (15)

all thread works, but is a little on the soft/flimsy side. I know this will sound retarded, but go walk down the hardware isle at home depot or lowes, and you might get lucky. They have a lot of grade 8 stuff too.

loweredd

iTrader: (2)

Stainless shouldn't be THAT soft, I wouldn't think....

exodus

iTrader: (15)

not sayin the studs that came with your kit are soft, the allthread though is another story. Atleast what I have seen anyway. What is the size you would need diameter wise?

loweredd

iTrader: (2)

I don't know what the studs in the kit are, but they are actually studs instead of cut allthread. They aren't stainless though. The allthread that the fastener place has is stainless.

The thread is M8x1.25. I need about 4.75 inches. When they measured for these studs, they must not have bottomed the stud in the block, cause they are about an inch short. I've seen a couple guys say that they stripped out thier standoffs for the brackets just by threading them by hand, and now I think I know why. They probably only had about 1 thread in the aluminum standoff.

exodus

iTrader: (15)

AH, now i get it, I was under the impression that it was the supplied studs that were the stainless ones. That would work then. Just have to make them long enough to get as much bite as possible in the block so they dont pull out, especially if there is slight carnage already.

LS1GMCTruck

iTrader: (2)

Personally...I would not use all-thread. I would use stainless rod & cut my own threads. But thats just me.

TJ

iTrader: (10)

i will agree unless the rod is higher quality than 18-8. its a lil soft and holding the front of a kit on, id be against it myself.
just me though. it will be more than suffice in most cases except mine. i get the shaft most of the time.