hevymetalg

iTrader: (1)

iIjust got a 10 bolt rear from someone on this site and the pinion seal is leaking,so i want to change the seal and crush sleeve, but i heard it will still leak after a while,so my question is???? is their a better permenet solution to this problem? i think i read something about this on here or another site that will fix it for good ,so please let me know ASAP! thanks to all.

redemn93

iTrader: (4)

how bad is the leak? as far as i know and from what i have done/seen in the past, its an issue that will just keep coming up.

we must have replaced the seal on my buddy's 10 bolt 4 times. still leaked. now his 9" leaks after replacing the seal before we ever even installed it since he got it new. the 10 bolt on my car leaks and the one i have sitting in the garage to replace it (switching from 2:73 to 3:42) leaks also. i am going to use a GM seal, a solid pinion spacer and hope for the best. and yes there is a solid spacer out there. i found it once and cant remember where. i will find it again though.

samson_420

iTrader: (1)

Not to talk crap but mine still has no leaks. It is still the OEM.

I would let it go unless it is bad though. It is not a worth while cause to try to fix, unless it is leaking badly.

flyin ryan

iTrader: (1)

I've had good luck with those I replaced including my own 10 bolt
Be sure the yoke surface (the part that the seal rides on,) is in good condition. If you see any pitting, rust or groves etc the yoke must be replaced.
Additionally, clean up the case where the seal slides in and put a very light coating of permatex on the case then install the seal. Be sure the seal is installed straight & not cocked and that you drive the seal on with out distorting it.

Good luck
Ryan

9000th01ss

iTrader: (10)

Get a National brand seal. If you have the new two piece type- take the piece off the yoke and get an older housing seal.
Use brake cleaner to clean everything. Put red loctite on the seals OD before putting it in the housing, this seals it to the housing. Also put good grease on the seals ID.
When you put the yoke on use a good sealer like ARP stud sealer on the splines.

SparkyJJO

iTrader: (11)

I've heard a slow seeping is a chronic problem with these cars. When my car was in the shop and they noticed it was damp around there. I was a bit ticked off when my dad told them to replace the seal and all that because there went some more $$$ to fix a "problem" that I know will just come back at some point. I can't be too upset though because he didn't know, but it was in the shop for something else and I would have preferred if he had called me instead of just going ahead and having them replace it. Oh well.

beedo

iTrader: (28)

Pop the spring out of the new seal and unsrew it. Cut ~.050"-.075" off and screw it back together, and install. Done it countless times and have never had one come back.

alamantia

iTrader: (10)

id just mark the nut and use the old crush sleeve

jimmyblue

iTrader: (11)

If you beat on it you will continue to crush it and develop
side-play at the yoke, which kicks the seal off seat every
rotation and no choice but to weep.

Running a solid spacer and shims here, no worries.

9000th01ss

iTrader: (10)

I disagree. You can beat on the yoke literally with a sledge hammer and the force is going to seperate the two bearings due to the taper direction.

So how does beating on it as in driving hard crush the crush sleeve further? Where does the force that moves the bearings closer come from?

2002_Z28_Six_Speed

iTrader: (19)

I have a Moser 12 bolt. 1 year and some change old. Pinnion seal leaks.

SladeX

changed mine almost 2 years ago, no leaks so far and I beat on it regularly, almost 50k miles and 200+ track launches since.

On my old 88 same issue, just grab a new one and replace, should last you a good while. For my 88 car, the gears were replaced twice in a span of 500k and 17 years and countless track runs. Only once did I have to change the pinion seal due to it leaking. Each gear change had it changed at that time too, but the gears lasted 150-200k miles each time before busting.

witry

iTrader: (8)

what you can do is instead of using a crush sleeve get a pinion spacer its like a crush sleeve but it dosnt crush you use shim to get the right backspacing to get the ring and pinion to align and mesh together the right way and it will eliminate the crush sleeve from messing up and taking out the seal or the pinion moving and taking out the seal ive done it in mine works awesome

9000th01ss

iTrader: (10)

Again, another response saying a solid spacer stops pinion seal leaks. And no explanation as to why.

Heres my explanation. Who ever set up the rear with a solid sleeve knows how to install a seal properly.
Seals leaking and crush sleeves are two things that do not effect each other.

Please someone tell me why you think a solid spacer keeps the seal from leaking.
It doesn't, think about it, think hard, the bearings do not move closer together when run hard, they move apart and that movement is stopped by the pinion gear head and the yoke/nut. The only thing a solid spacer has thats better than a crush sleeve is the ability to tighten the pinion nut as tight as you want without overtightening the pinion preload.
The whole purpose of the crush sleeve is to have something there for the nut to tighten against, thats it.
When I set up a rear I don't even use a crush sleeve. I put one in during final assembly.
I agree a solid spacer is better, but you cannot throw one in and expect it to keep the seal from leaking.
Another reason you'll see less solid spacer equipped cars leaking is because you can replace the seal and tighten the pinion to spec without taking the whole rear apart to put in a new crush sleeve.

alamantia

iTrader: (10)

9000th01ss is 110% correct

Solid Pinion spacers are ****** useless, if anything they cause problems if youdont know how to shim them right, every idiot thinks the crush coller holds the pinion in or something, if you have two tapered bearings getting squeesed together, it doesnt take a rocket scientist to figure out that they arent going to move, more idiots think you can over crush a pinion coller, well how can you do that if the brearings are only going to go in so far???

hevymetalg

iTrader: (1)

so..... i guess i will just get a new seal then, is their a wright up on every thing i need to know to replace the seal?

alamantia

iTrader: (10)

https://ls1tech.com/forums/gears-axles/689267-10-bolt-rearend-leak-easy-fix.html

hevymetalg

iTrader: (1)

THANKS MAN.