scoob

iTrader: (3)

My 02 WS6 started acting up while I was on vacation. When I hit a bump in the road (although it doesn't do it every time) the car will cut off and come right back on. Usually it does it so fast that the only way to know is to look at the gauges and they will bottom out and all of the warning lights come on. When it cuts back on it will keep running fine like nothing happened. Right before this happened I noticed my voltage guage was fluctuating bad so after the problem started I took my alternator in for a test, it was going bad so I went ahead and replaced it. I've already checked the battery gorund, its not loose. Any ideas?

Blazingz28

iTrader: (5)

both of your terminals tight on the battery? Sounds like maybe one is loose and popping on and off quick.. not sure why it would come back on though

scoob

iTrader: (3)

Yes, those are tight. That was the first thing that I checked.

lovin myls1

iTrader: (4)

The black wire from the battery bolts to ground somewhere I think on the frame or maybe the block or both- follow that wire and check connections. Might also do the same for red.

85z28350

get a ground distribution chart and check ALL the grounds. ive only seen that after body work though.

FLA02TA

iTrader: (5)

I had this same problem after doing the AutoTrix window motor wiring kit.

Since I routed the power over to the small terminal by the fuse boxes, I didn't have the nut tightened down all the way. It's the one with the red cap I believe.

scoob

iTrader: (3)

Bumping it back up because the issue is back..it went away for about 2 weeks. I checked all of the connections listed abouve and everything seems fine. When the car did this the other day it shut off for about 5 seconds then started running again on its own. Also when this happens now it resets my ECU because my SES light (car has no cats) goes off for about 300 miles or so. Could it possibly be an ignition switch? Would cause the SES codes to clear?

wickedformula

iTrader: (1)

just an idea, start the car and let it idle, go under the hood and just gently tug on some wires. sometimes you can slim down the search area

scoob

iTrader: (3)

Did that also. I'm pretty much ready to rule out a wire being loose, at least on the battery/ground side of things unless its internal in a switch or something.

wickedformula

iTrader: (1)

hmm so the engine dies but the lights and stuff stay on. not the battery or alternator then. id start looking deeper into ignition and fuel system. try your cap. especially your coil and coil wire.

Luder[PAK9]

Well, post hoc ergo propter hoc is a logical fallacy, but this still semms like a good place to start. What brand of alternator did you buy? From lurking on the boards, it seems people have problems with Autozone ones--i.e. failign after anywhere from a few days to a few months. It could be that whatever brand you bought, you got a bum one.

Also check your ignition fuses--who knows, it could have wiggled its way partially loose?

Luder[PAK9]

The LS1 doesn't have a distributor--it's all electronic.

scoob

iTrader: (3)

No, everything dies...lights and all. It is almost like a coil going bad. I had a '66 stang that had the same problem as this car but that car had 1 big coil on it, not individual coil packs. Anyways, lets set alternator and all aside from now. What could be cut off for a split second and reset the computer? After this is happening my SES light goes off for 200 miles or so until it realizes the car has no cats. A loose battery wire or loose ground would not cause the computer to reset if if it was unhooked for a few seconds would it?

Michael02hawk

iTrader: (26)

I had very similar problem last year.

For me, it turned out the + terminals, on the DRIVERS SIDE post was the problem.

This is the post near the fuse boxes under the hood. There is a nut on there that can loosen come up. I had a few things connected there.

What happened was the o-ring connections being loose, rubbed, creating heat, and started to burn/melt my wires in that area, causing intermittent power (voltage) cuts.

I had to replace the burnt wires, o-rings and clean everything up, tightened that nut up and used blue loctite! Problem was solved.

scoob

iTrader: (3)

I checked that terminal yesterday and cleaned it and the two other wires coming off the positive side of the battery. My volt gauge is reading a lot healthier now, hopefully that was it. Since it happens very sporadically I'll have to keep driving it to be sure.

Michael02hawk

iTrader: (26)

Excellect! Glad I could help.

Tighten that darn nut down, and loctite it. :-)

Corvettekid82

iTrader: (20)

Sounds like a problem I've seen at the track before in a friends car. The battery tray is part of the coolant tank. There is a tab on the tray that keeps your battery in place and because its plastic its very prone to fail. When he would launch his car, the battery would actually shift twoards the firewall, causing it to short when it touched the metal AC canister that is right behind the battery. His car would die and kill his lauch but start right back up as soon as the short was broken. Sounds like the same sort of problem you're having. I'd check the tie down for the battery.. every time you hit a good bump, the same thing could be happening and you might be shorting out the system.

Just an idea.. hope it helps!

ps his mc guyver fix was to stuff a shop rag behind the battery so it wouldn't budge until he got a new coolant tank.

robsquikz28

iTrader: (246)

on the right fender you have a wiring juction block check there for the ground to be loose it always is

transam5.7lt1

iTrader: (18)

Back when I had my LT1, it did the same thing yours is doing. It resulted being a bad ignition switch, not the lock and thumbler, but the one way down on the steering column. It had some burnt terminals there. Try this: Turn on the car, when it does start to act up, push the lock and thumbler a little forward to see if it corrects it, just a little a not all the way forward, if it does change a little or corrects it..... I'll say its that ignition switch...... there's a rod that runs inside the steering column that activates that switch when you turn the key, it opens the ingnition circuit, etc...

DrivenWS6

iTrader: (1)

I had the same problem once...It ended up being the battery. It had an internal short. Put a new battery in it and 20k later never happened since.