DJB

iTrader: (15)

With the mods and power in my sig here is my best time. 12.539 at 114.38 with a 2.122 60 ft. The thing is last year with my old motor I did about the same thing 12.6 at 114. That motor made 367 RWHP and 347 RWTQ. This motor made 408 RWHP and 375 RWTQ about a month ago on the dyno when I had it tuned for my 30 lbs injectors. So that time seems slow and that trap seems low to me. My brother only has a lid, full exhaust and a 4.10 gear in his 01 T/A and ran a 12.7 at 113 with a 2.0 60 ft. His times seem way to close to mines for him to have no internal engine mods and I have a heads and cam car. Any suggestions would be great.

cbra-klla

iTrader: (52)

looks like u might need a set of drag radials or slicks to get that 60' down

1.8t

Regardless, his car should be trapping higher. It is possible it could be the weather. I will say this, my car was very consistent when it had bolt ons. Now that it has the cam, it swings from pulling very hard in cooler weather, to being a dog in hot weather. I don't know if that is the nature of these cam'ed LS motors or not, but I feel your pain. I have been chasing this issue with my tuner and we are slowly chipping away at making her more consistent.

3DFORMULA

iTrader: (4)

Well you're not hooking off the line. 408hp and a 2.1 60ft? Should be 1.6 area.

crashinaz

iTrader: (35)

Forget the ET and short time for now and concentrate on mph. It's low. Ask yourself some of these questions... Where does it feel weak? Is it laying down somewhere? What RPM are you going through the traps at? What do the plugs look like? It can be something as simple as KR pulling timing out. See if you can get some logging done AT the track.

DJB

iTrader: (15)

I was thinking exactly what 1.8t said. My old motor did those times in 60 degree weather and it was 80 yesterday. I was thinking of taking it up with my tuner but sometimes these tuners act like they don't have time for you after they have already tuned your car. I wish I would have learned how to tune my car myself sometimes. My brother is running on a stock tune. His car seems to be very consistant. He ran a 12.8 when it was 60 out and now a 12.7 at 80 out. I also was thinking what crashinaz said. My mph should still be at least 4 mph higher with my power.

N2RACINGLS1's

iTrader: (2)

I know we all try to help each other on this board and I wanted to share a couple of things.

1. My car was 3,665 lbs in 2006 and was only putting 320 HP and 345 TQ to the rear wheels.

Here is what was done to the car at the time, 9 inch with 3.70 spooled rear, TH400 with stall, factory brakes, power steering, and a stock engine with 92K miles on it, I never had the valve covers off and it had an LS1 intake not a LS6, hooker headers with y-pipe and Hooker cat back with muffler removed and a added turn down at the back of the car. In 2006 the best it ran was 1.543 in the 60 foot at 7.533 NA ET at 89.14 MPH in the 1/8 and 11.94 NA at 111.17 MPH in the 1/4 at the House of Hook in Jackson SC.

I share all of this to say that I think you tires are hurting your setup as much as anything. You can see the difference of your 2.12 60 foot and my 1.54 60 foot is right at .60's.

Finally if my Formlua ran within .60 of your posted number with a 346 ci 92K mile stock engine with 3.70 gears with nothing other then headers what is going on? I do not know what your car weighs but just look at the horsepower difference between your car and mine.

I hope you get it figured out!

N2

DJB

iTrader: (15)

I know my 60 ft suck and if I get that down I could get a better time. I was thinking that my trap is low for my power. If the trap was higher then I would be ok with just focusing in my 60. I just want to make sure that I am getting all my power at the track. But maybe I am and it was just the heat and my driving. I was on Nitto DR's but I really need a line lock so I can heat them up.

N2RACINGLS1's

iTrader: (2)

Well that is something a little different! The above times and 60 foot were with ET Streets. If you were using Nitto's the 60 should have been around 1.80 - 1.90 60 foot times. Is you car a 6 speed? If so your trap speed is very low for you HP and TQ.

DJB

iTrader: (15)

Yes my car is a M6.

s346k

iTrader: (4)

a lot of an m6 car's performance is driver. dyno numbers mean next to nothing, as every dyno pull is going to be different, not to mention almost every dyno is different, period. this might sound stupid, but have you let your brother drive your car? if he logs a few passes and says it's slow, you might look into the tune. typically the only thing holding back a car's engine performance is the tune. i think that a heads/cam car should be trapping more than 114mph, unless you are at a high altitude or were having MAJOR traction problems. i would expect 400whp to trap ~ 116 or so given a driver. but also don't kid yourself. a full weight bolt-on stick car trapping 113 is pretty damn strong and definately not the ordinary. i am sitting on a 109 trap lid/weld in muffler car and i'm afraid to mod it haha out of fear that it will get slower. either way, i'd apply the driver mod and see what happens. if it has the same outcome, make sure everything is *right on it and get it re-tuned. i would also look for ~420whp out of that setup.

DJB

iTrader: (15)

I have some investigating to do for sure.

N2RACINGLS1's

iTrader: (2)

I have something else to add.

I have an 02 WS6 6 spd and with nothing more then a lid and nitto's it ran 12.75 at 110 MPH with only 1,700 miles on it at Steele, Al. I did have the spare tire removed but had SLP bolt on sub frame connectors. The car weighed in at 3,665 lbs.

N2

DJB

iTrader: (15)

Today my tuner even agreed that my trap seems slow. He had me log a couple street runs and he said everthing looked fine.The car didn't seem to be pulling any timing or missing. What else in the tune could be wrong. I had my car on the dyno 3 times in the last year and it made a few over 400 each time with no knock. He is saying maybe I should raise my shift points but I sure dont want to spin a bearing.

Villain281H

iTrader: (5)

As mentioned already, the 60 foot time is holding back a bunch of e.t.

But something not yet asked:

What is the rpm you are making peak power at, and what rpm do you shift?

Derek

s346k

iTrader: (4)

good questions. also something to look into regarding the lack of power. if everything looks good on the log, you might want to double check that the cam is installed properly. i am guessing if it was simply installed dot to dot that you're actually way advanced or retarded due to the grind being off. i dunno, there is a problem somewhere and i wouldn't expect it to be hard to find as you're missing a good portion of power.

DJB

iTrader: (15)

I made over 400 to the rear wheels. I not low on power when on the dyno so I think I'm ok on the cam install. I have done 3 cam installs and they all have been dot to dot. I try to shift between 6400 and 6500 RPM's. My power drops off at 6450 on my dyno graph. My tuner told me 6700 but I don't want to spin a bearing. I just put thing motor in not even a year ago cause I spun a bearing last April in my old motor. I actually got the motor from my tuner. It is a 02 LS6 block motor and had 25,000 miles when I got it last July. I only changed the heads on it and cam in it.

s346k

iTrader: (4)

i understand this, but even installing the cam dot to dot without degreeing it to be SURE is risky, as most cams i've seen are off 2-4* from what the card says and degreeing upon install is mandatory.

DJB

iTrader: (15)

I understand what you are saying but my numbers seem ok to me. And the numbers I have are on a Mustang dyno. Even if its off by 2 degrees I still have good dyno numbers.

Photochop

iTrader: (74)

I've noticed a trap speed decrease of 2-3 mph from 40* up to 90* in previous combinations, on the same track cutting the same 60s.