Conversions & Hybrids - Clutch need more pedal travel.




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jannes_z-28
07-14-2008, 03:18 AM
In my setup I hav had a problem with the clutch since I started driving it at the end of last summer. Now I have put about 2000 miles on it and need to solve this problem.

When I press the clutch pedal to the floor the clutch just barerly disengage.I can put it in gears and shift but I feel that the clutch is slipping slightly.

When driving hard I also get the dead pedal on the floor syndrome.

What I need to do is get some kind of adjustable clutch rod instead of the fixed stock one.

Has anyone done something like this and can share some ideas?


Thanks


Jan


Derek 357i
07-14-2008, 07:00 AM
Is the clutch master cylinder (CMC) you are using large enough? Unless your clutch rod has free travel before actually engaging the CMC, I think I would upsize the CMC first, then look at the rod.

bczee
07-14-2008, 10:08 AM
Is this for your 69 Camaro ?.. what Clutch setup are you using.. the Stock LS1 Master/slave setup? or some modified 69 Z Bar setup ?

If using the Hyd LS1.. are you sure you bleed the system well enough ?..
Did you check the master rod is traveling about 1" (I think it is just about .9" that is needed). May need to relocate the rod to a different location on the pedal?

Got any pictures of your setup ?


jannes_z-28
07-14-2008, 10:18 AM
Yes it is the stock LS1 setup, adapted to work in the '69. The piston doesn't get enough travel to engage. It is bleeded so there is no airproblem.

What i am looking for is some way of adjusting the length of the rod so I can move the pedal further up from the floor.


Jan

stevieturbo
07-14-2008, 02:24 PM
You need 1" of travel at the master cylinder.

Just modify the master end of the pedal, so the rod is further from the clutch pedal pivot. If you have a welder, this should be easy....

If not...it wont lol

Other option would be to install a master cylinder with a larger internal bore.

Stock uses 0.75". So if you could fit a 0.825" in its place, you should have plenty of fluid travel at the slave.

stealth71
07-15-2008, 06:45 AM
Also did you do the drill mod to the hose?

bczee
07-15-2008, 09:15 AM
Before you go and mod / change anything. Check to make sure your master cylinder rod is moving just about 1"..... if it is not.. then you need to look into moving the rod location. Use some marker and tape on the rod or have someone watch and mark the rod as someone step on the pedal the full travel.

What did you do to get the pedel and master mounted on your Camaro.. (take a look a the S&P page for the 68 swap they did, this link will show the mod to the pedal and plate that is used. http://www.hotrodlane.cc/Streetstories/68ls1camaro/68ls1camaro1.htm)

What I did was cut the exisiting plate off of the pedal, used a vise grip to hold it on to the pedal and checked the travel. If it was not right, I then just unclamped it and move it till I found the correct location for the 1" of travel. Then just did the final weld.

jannes_z-28
07-16-2008, 03:47 PM
I did it like the S&P stuff.

http://www.protouring.se/files/clutch_setup.jpg
http://www.protouring.se/files/cluchparts.jpg

I will check the travel of the rod tomorrow. Just came home after a 350 mile ride with the Camaro today.

I haven't done the drill hole procedure.


Jan

jannes_z-28
07-18-2008, 10:02 AM
I have checked the pistontravel now and it is only 7/8".

I will redo the rod mounting hole to get more travel.


Jan

bczee
07-18-2008, 11:14 AM
ok.. good find.. I was told that the travel is 15/16" by John Bzdel.. that is a good source for info..

keep us posted..

stevieturbo
07-18-2008, 11:16 AM
You need 1"

Better too much, than too little, but stock travel is 1"

69-er
01-27-2011, 12:40 PM
I did it like the S&P stuff.

http://www.protouring.se/files/clutch_setup.jpg
http://www.protouring.se/files/cluchparts.jpg

I will check the travel of the rod tomorrow. Just came home after a 350 mile ride with the Camaro today.

I haven't done the drill hole procedure.


Jan

Resurrecting this thread.

I want to understand the bracket design by the way the bracket is bent. Does the cylinder bolt just to the bracket and not also to the firewall? I believe the firewall is flat in this area (on a first gen F-body) so this seems to be the case to get the angle correct.

It also seems like this might cause a little flexing around the bend area if the bracket is not thick enough. How thick should the bracket be? Or, how thick is S&P's? I wonder if support at the bottom of the bracket to the firewall would be a good idea.

Thanks for any info you all can provide!

Larry