captainwizbang

iTrader: (1)

Trying to get my kit working and other than some obvious grounding issues I have, I believe my AFR is way out of line. Attached is a log I ran with the Maximizer with the nitrous system disabled. You can see the "EGO" starts off high in first gear and never gets below 14:1 after 3rd gear. I'm trying to run a progressive 180 wet shot. Recommendations?

captainwizbang

iTrader: (1)

bump it

captainwizbang

iTrader: (1)

hello, anyone home!?

YellowToy/A

iTrader: (1)

If that is your a/f ratio you had best fix that fast. Running higher than 13.00 NA is bad. Running higher than 12.00 is bad with NO2. You need way more fuel.

captainwizbang

iTrader: (1)

Well, it is a direct port wet kit so i should be getting more fuel when it counts, but I agree with you. I'm just trying to figure out the most cost effective way to manage the AFR. I don't want custom tuning on a dyno because I don't run the NO2 all the time and tuning software like LS1edit is expensive. I want to adjust it on the fly when I'm at the track.

Dragman

u are way to lean to spray u are going to hurt something.

99FRC

iTrader: (5)

I think he realizes that, which is the reason for his post.

Cap'n: Looks like you are just bolt-ons from your sig, correct? We can just forget about the nitrous for now and try to diagnose what's going on N/A. The first thing I would think is the fuel pump. An aftermarket one would definitely not hurt if you're planning to spray up to 180. Cleaning or replacing injectors would be my next thought.

99 FRC

captainwizbang

iTrader: (1)

You are correct, just bolt ons like the SLP MAF and headers. The injectors should be clean as I cleaned them when I installed the NXL rails. Since then I've had less than 5000 miles on the car. My guess is that the car is running as tuned N/A. I say that because the AFR seems to follow a pattern and adjusts as I shift gears. I suppose I could take the SLP MAF of and remove the Hypertec III programmer to get an even more accurate look at the A/F. I figure the only way I can determine if the fuel system is being over taxed is stick the car on a dyno. Correct?

Tell me, have you ever used or seen the MAFT product (link below)? I'm thinking this is what I should have purchased rather than the Timing Tuning I installed. Looks like it can control both timing and A/F.

http://www.maftpro.com/

99FRC

iTrader: (5)

Sorry, I'm not the right person for self-tuning (got mine done at LG). However, I can almost guarantee that you need to get rid of that Hypertech and get your tune back to stock before even thinking about spraying! That should be posted as rule #1 somewhere. Give that a try and then get it on the dyno for a nitrous tune before you spray over 100 shot.

99 FRC

captainwizbang

iTrader: (1)

Just as FYI - Yes... I reload the stock program before I go to the track. I only run the power program when i'm daily driven.

How was your experience with LG? Did the tune cost you an arm and leg or just the arm?

99FRC

iTrader: (5)

Just the arm! I bought their headers, so had it done at the same time. So, when you got the results above, did you have the stock program or the power program in?

99 FRC

captainwizbang

iTrader: (1)

Now that you ask. I know I ran without NO2 active, but I don't remember if I re-installed the program before or after the run. My guess is I re-installed before the run. Unfortunately I've slept since then.