Manual Transmission - Clutch problem after break in?
07-15-2008, 01:05 AM
Well i broke in the clutch and everything seemed ok,, shifted good into all gears, but after about 400 miles im not sure what happened..
I have an ls7 clutch with about 600 miles or so on it, it has been bled and ran fine for the 400 miles. I just had a shop rebleed it to try and see if that was what was causing me the problem..
When i go to shift from first to second it gives me some resistance/blockage usually goes in followed by a thud... same usually happens going into third.
If i double clutch, it usually goes into the gear with less of a problem than a straight shift.
Once or twice i have tryed to clutch and shift into first and completely been unable to get it into gear, where i then had to release the clutch depress it again and it would go into gear.
When i rev to the right rpms the car shifts very smooth.
This is driving me crazy, i dont want to screw my transmission up, anyone help?
07-15-2008, 01:09 AM
sure its not a sycro does it just not go in or does it grind while going it just need some more info?
07-15-2008, 01:27 AM
Its hard to explain, i shift into first, it normally goes in without a problem nothing at all(except for the few times which seem to be becoming more frequent wherre i have to let off the clutch and then press it again because it will not go into first at all), i take off, i depress the clutch and make an attempt to shift from first to second, when i try to put it in second it hits a wall so to speak but if i keep pressure in it to try and put it in gear i feel it kick back a little bit towards neutral and then it goes into gear usually followed by a thud from the car... it just not a smooth shift whatsoever... same thing happens from 2-3.
07-15-2008, 01:59 AM
you do realize that is what the skip shift option does. maybe they didnt want to spend a lot of time bleeding it either. i used a mighty vac and it worked great.this just in, l s7 flywheel, press plate, clutch, master slave and t,o bearing all new nuts bolts, seems to work great
07-15-2008, 12:55 PM
i had my computer mail order tuned and i swear that they removed or should have removed it atleast but maybe they did not.. perhaps i will take the car by a local tuner to make sure... then ill bleed it again anyways...
07-15-2008, 02:58 PM
Well i did a little test when i was out driving, it seems if i get the rpms in the mid range like 3.5-4 it shifts into second, and then third fine with no thuds no resistance etc...
07-16-2008, 12:11 AM
maybe bleed it somemore , drive then bleed again, after my swap it wouldnt even go into gear with the engine running, after bleding with mighty vac, it wouldnt go in reverse, bleed again and it works great.
07-16-2008, 09:18 PM
Just wanted to post up that i believe i have solved my problem.. i had a friend drive my car and he said that he felt as if the clutch engagement was too far off of the floor so i adjusted it so it grabbed closer to the floor as per his judgement and it appears as if my problem has gone away.
It now seems to transition smoothly into 2nd and 3rd.. could anyone tell me what was the problem here was, as to why adjusting the pedal down would fix my problem... i would think that if the rod was adjusted out more, it would push farther back into the MC thus more efficiently closing the valve which is why the clutch would grab/release so high in the pedal throw. Yet it should ensure that the clutch is completely disengaged when the pedal is to the floor. It seems as if my problem is that the clutch was not completely disengaging, but..
It seems backwards to me that adjusting the rod in would alleviate my problem?