prochargedchevyi

iTrader: (9)

Hey Guys,

My wife and I moving back to Tampa within the next few months, and we're going to have to trailer the C5. The trailer will be from either Uhaul or Budget.

My question is, since it's stock height with the stock wheels, will I have a clearance problem getting it onto the trailer? The worst thing in the world would be to bottom-out and scratch the hell out of the fascia.

Thanks in advance,
Vince

Todd157k

iTrader: (5)

Probably, however if you back the trailer to a curb, then extend the ramps, you'll be fine.

The bigger problem is not the nose, it's the middle of the car vs. angle.

pittman

iTrader: (1)

I built some 6' wood extensions out of 2x8's and put 2x4 blocks in 2 places where it would flex. Works like a champ. Also, the door hits the fender when you try to get out. I screwed a 1x4 to the trailer floor and park the drivers front tire on top and the door clears just fine. Let me know if you need pictures.


Pitt

prochargedchevyi

iTrader: (9)

Yeah, pictures would be great. I'm definitely a visual learner. LOL

I believe the car trailers that UHaul and Budget offer have flip-down fenders so that lower cars can still open their doors. I'm not a 100% sure though.

pittman

iTrader: (1)

I will post you some Bro..only problem is, it will be late tomorrow before I get home...so it will be friday after work. Hope you can wait that long. Where are you in Florida ??
Pitt

Red99TA

iTrader: (11)

I just drove about 1200 miles with my Z06 on a U-haul trailer 3 months ago. The two problems with the U-haul trailer are:
1) ramps are too steep. Easily fixed by backing up to a hill to straighten out the ramps

2) you will not be able to pull all the way forward because there's a metal lip at the front of the trailer that's probably 4" tall. The solution is to put some 2"x6" (about 12" worth) up there and drive up onto it so the front air dam/bumper clears this metal lip. Doesn't matter that you'll be parked on wood pieces b/c the ratcheting straps will just pull the car/wood down against the trailer anyways.

Cole Train

iTrader: (30)

yep big wood planks. I have to do that or BACK it on

prochargedchevyi

iTrader: (9)

No rush man. Thanks so much for the pics.

We're moving from Port St Lucie back to Tampa - hopefully before the end of September. We've been living in this stinkhole for 4 years and couldn't be happier to move back to the west coast.

pittman

iTrader: (1)

I just wondered if you were on the upper east coast of Fl. Need some fellow Vette racers...

I used you as an excuse to skip the gym, come home and take pictures while I drink Beer..lol. Here ya go...works like a champ. Just use 2-1/2" deck screws and a six pack per ramp.


http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t...e/DSC01385.jpg

http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t...e/DSC01388.jpg

Pitt

prochargedchevyi

iTrader: (9)

Damn dude, thanks so much!!! Those pics help out a ton.

I really appreciate it.

Vincent

HypoxicSpeed

Be careful not to rachet those straps down on the tires to tight. When I made my move I made that mistake and it left minor gashes in the sidewall of the tires.

I had to make three trips from NC to AZ pulling car trailers.

Good Luck on your move. I feel your pain

V-seriesTech

iTrader: (5)

Oh dude, vero is 20 minutes from there(my old hometown). Livin down south now. I'll be crusing up in two weeks to work on a couple of speed freaks.

BBM98C5

iTrader: (2)

What I do to get my car on the trailer is I use a pair of the heavy duty Rhino Ramps (the plastic drive on ones) and back the rear of the tow vehicle onto them. This makes the ramps on my trailer almost straight and my car drives right on with no problem (except that I have to General Lee it to get out of the car.)

pittman

iTrader: (1)

I agree...That does work great most of the time...quick and easy. However, I switched trailers to the 5,000 lb axles and now the trailer sits alot higher and my vette front end hits the ramps....so....I headed to Home Depot for some lumber !!!

Pitt