C5 Kit Hits Rim!!!
07-28-2008, 09:09 PM
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C5 Kit Hits Rim!!! i bought the c5 brake conversion kit and my rims were not on the list that would not work. i have 19x9.5 hp racing evos. it hits the caliper by like 1/8 of an inch. what do i do??? has anyone fixed this before with wheel spacers of thinner pads?!!!!!!
please help me out on what i can and should do!
please help me out on what i can and should do! 
07-29-2008, 11:32 AM
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You'll likely have to run wheel spacers. It's probably a problem similar to that of Ruff Racing wheels, which you can't even run on stock brakes using the +35mm offset on the fronts. The only thing is that you'll be pushing your wheels out more and I know that the HPs run flush as it is with the fender. You probably don't want the wheels sticking out past the fender.
Thinner pads would probably work too but I'd determine exactly how much clearance you need before proceeding with this. You don't want to ruin a new set of pads.
Thinner pads would probably work too but I'd determine exactly how much clearance you need before proceeding with this. You don't want to ruin a new set of pads.
07-29-2008, 11:46 AM
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You'll likely have to run wheel spacers. It's probably a problem similar to that of Ruff Racing wheels, which you can't even run on stock brakes using the +35mm offset on the fronts. The only thing is that you'll be pushing your wheels out more and I know that the HPs run flush as it is with the fender. You probably don't want the wheels sticking out past the fender.
Thinner pads would probably work too but I'd determine exactly how much clearance you need before proceeding with this. You don't want to ruin a new set of pads.
Thinner pads would probably work too but I'd determine exactly how much clearance you need before proceeding with this. You don't want to ruin a new set of pads.
07-29-2008, 01:02 PM
#6
You will have to get ARP wheel studs. The front studs wont be long enough to safley run spacers without them. The draw back to that is they only come in 3.5in and 2.5in long and you will need some 2.25in long. So you can do what I did...buy the 2.5in and cut .25in off the ends. They work like a charm after that.
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07-29-2008, 01:58 PM
#8
I run 1/2" spacers up front and nothing in the rear. It helps the car turn in.
1/4" might be too much for stock studs, as mentioned above. Just look and see if the all threads are fully engaged in the nut and on the stud.
Another possibility is getting a set of GM truck wheel studs. They are the same length as the F-Car stock studs and threaded all the way to the end.
1/4" might be too much for stock studs, as mentioned above. Just look and see if the all threads are fully engaged in the nut and on the stud.
Another possibility is getting a set of GM truck wheel studs. They are the same length as the F-Car stock studs and threaded all the way to the end.
07-29-2008, 02:41 PM
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Get some hubcentric spacers, not just any of the cheap ones. You want the spacers to stay centered on the hub. 1/4 won't leave you much hub length left but it will work.
Also definitely get the stronger ARP studs or what Mitch recommended. Open ended lugs. Torque them all evenly with a torque wrench. Seems like a pain, but I'd say it's worth it if it lets you use the brakes without modifying the wheel or the caliper
Also definitely get the stronger ARP studs or what Mitch recommended. Open ended lugs. Torque them all evenly with a torque wrench. Seems like a pain, but I'd say it's worth it if it lets you use the brakes without modifying the wheel or the caliper
07-29-2008, 06:40 PM
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^^^
http://www.skulte.com/product_info.p...c60684bb87528e
Those are high quality and will do the trick. They are a little expensive but they should provide more peace of mind for you. They also offer wheelcentric lips on them.
http://www.skulte.com/product_info.p...c60684bb87528e
Those are high quality and will do the trick. They are a little expensive but they should provide more peace of mind for you. They also offer wheelcentric lips on them.
07-29-2008, 08:35 PM
#11
Hubcentric ...
I understand the need and purpose. However, if you snug up the lug nuts a little at a time, allowing the acorn side of the lugnut to center up the wheel , you will be fine without the lip.
I just barely snug 1 lug and you can see the wheel flatten against the mounting surface. Then hit another lug on the opposite side and you can see the wheel center itself. Then torque the rest of them.
I understand the need and purpose. However, if you snug up the lug nuts a little at a time, allowing the acorn side of the lugnut to center up the wheel , you will be fine without the lip.
I just barely snug 1 lug and you can see the wheel flatten against the mounting surface. Then hit another lug on the opposite side and you can see the wheel center itself. Then torque the rest of them.
