Arc00TA

iTrader: (17)

Alrighty, I did a lot of searching and didn't turn up a whole lot of info, so here comes my thread. I am 99.999% sure I want a magnacharger for my car, heres my list of reasons:

Goal of ~500rwhp fits nicely
Awesome low end torque
I'm not gonna be racing very often so screw peak numbers
Boneriffic blower whine

So, I need some help on the motor end. Is is better to stay small cubes, say hone my LS1 block and build a forged 347? Or go with a stroker kit? Should I build the hell out of it or just add forged pistons and upgrade rod bolts? I'm not on a super tight budget but I would like to stay under 10k for the motor including the supercharger kit. I was originally going to go with a 408 build but this is a lot more uncommon, plus I can't get that sound out of my mind after driving my buddies '03 termi for a week while he was on vacation. Thanks for any info in advance.

ls1290

iTrader: (20)

The upper end that a magnacharger can efficiently feed is about a 383. The 383 magnacharger I have seen have unbelievable low end torque. If you are not budget constrained, I would do the 383.

Keith

hendihoo

I just did a stock LS1 maggie build on my 2002 WS6 TA only added headers nothing else, and got a verified 485 RWHP and awsome low end torque. I love it. Late Model Speed in Decatur Indiana did the build. I was very happy with the fit and finish.

98Z28MASS

iTrader: (6)

Engine and maggie under $10K is going to be tough if you go with a 383. Id say stay at 346/347 CI. Sell your stock LS1 if you can and pick up a full forged shortblock from one of the sponsors. If you have a good engine shop that you trust and you want to re-use your block then stay with the stock crank as that has been proven to handle a lot of power and look into some forged rods and pistons, some 6.0 heads with upgraded valvsesprings (either comp 918's or duals, my vote is for duals), and then the maggie kit.

LilJayV10

iTrader: (39)

Good luck with your build. I was looking at this kit or the APS kit. The sound is awesome. Let us know how it goes.

Arc00TA

iTrader: (17)

Thanks for the suggestions, I will look into the 383. Like I said budget isn't a huge deal (I'm on deployment right now and plan to spend about 18k on the car when I get back) I just wanted to set some goals. I'm trying to get it so I can order most of my parts before I get back so I can start right away. My chances to use the internet are once a month or so, I wanted to ask now and get responses so next time I can start looking up prices. Two more questions:

What headers would best fit this application? I'm running 1 3/4" right now, should I look at bumping up the primaries to 1 7/8?

Is there a particular cam that works well with this kit? I don't really have time to research it right now just wondering if someone knows off the top of thier head.

Thanks for the replies, can't wait to start working on it.

farmdawg

You could do very well with a forged 346/7 block and upgrade your heads to some 243's or bigger, I would definitely recommend stepping up to the 1 7/8 headers too. There are several different cams out there that will work well with the maggie, I use the Comp Cams SC3 from Speed Inc, recommend staying in the mid 220's-230's for duration. With just headers, a cam, and the maggie 500rwhp should be easy, thro in heads and see what happens.

gauge hp

iTrader: (1)

I Just had to make the same decision, and this was my result, I built a 383, because I could not bring myself to build a new engine without going bigger, on my stock 347 my maggie made a solid 7# of boost and around 485 rwhp in my CTSV,(lots of parasitic loss in these cars), I knew I was going to loose boost to my cubes, heads,cam, larger t.b. etc. so I put on an 8" crank pulley and 2.6" blower pulley, I am know spinning the sh#t out of the maggie and the poor thing is producing 7# of boost. Well thats okay right! no not alright my IAT's even with meth are too high even to mention. So In my opinion stay with the smaller cubes. Unfortunately I don't know how much boost it would have made on the 383 without overdriving the blower, although I think you would be safe to assume to crank pulley would be good for 2.5# and the blower pulley, 2# maybe. So I really don't think the little maggie would have made much over 4 or 5# if lucky on the 383. In this case I really believe that boost will make more power than the few extra cubes.
So when your in the ditch, whats another 50 feet of chain, now I am looking into one of their new TVS blowers to solve my boost issues. Anyway that is just my personal experience.

Arc00TA

iTrader: (17)

It seems like the 346/347 would be the most economical right now, the blower kit is pretty expensive. Does anyone kow where I can actually download some videos of this setup on an f-body? I know there are some floating around streetfire and such but I can't download those.

Jontall

You don't need much to get 500rwhp with the Maggie. I have the 122HH on a basically stock LS2 (Kooks headers, Patriot Gold valve springs, Alky-Control meth injection) that makes 535rwhp. There's nothing better for the street. It is super fast, has instant throttle response and it's super dependable; well the clutch and rear tires do take a beaten.

98Z28MASS

iTrader: (6)

The 383 is nice but if your goal is only 500 or so rwhp then a forged 346/347 will more than fit the build. The 1 3/4 headers will work fine but it certainly wouldnt hurt to step up to the 1 7/8, I just dont think it would make that much of a difference (could be wrong though). As for a cam there are a million different FI cams out there but as mentioned by someone above if you want a little lope/rough idle then go with something in the 22x/22x range as it will give you good power gains but will still have a fairly tame idle. Something like the Speed Inc SC1 would work which is a 222/228 cam. 18K for a build is not a bad budget but your going to need a fuel system, tune, built tranny, built rear-end, etc at some point on top of the engine and maggie kit so if you have the funds go 383 but the additional money saved by going 346/347 could be spent elsewhere. JMO.

BadMonkey

iTrader: (1)

I sold my car but here is a few vids I did.


Simple Row through 1-3 gears.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=s4brxHNWdQE


The road started to end a little faster then I thought lol. Not many straight roads where I live You will notice my brakes work well
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7cyrWJ5B6Oc


Small punch on the bridge
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hvAkwZE2QgM


Simple driveby lol. Can you hear the blower?
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WY4qRAJG64I

Dyno
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4fAS1070FBY

Arc00TA

iTrader: (17)

Yeah, I've decided on the forged stock cubes. I'm probably going to try to find a cam thats very smooth and quiet for this but that should be pretty easy to figure out. My garage already has a 12 bolt waiting for gears so I'm pretty solid there, and the T56 will be getting a rebuild and definitely a nw clutch. The kit I plan to use is the one sold my LMspeed is pretty complete, since I don't plan on pushing it past what a completely stock LS1 would make on it I think it should be fine. I'm rebuilding the engine basically just for longevity, it already has 130k on the clock. Might as well build it to be bulletproof while I'm at it.

farmdawg

Good kit by LMS, Ed will get you set up in the right direction and help you along the way. He is a little hard to get a hold of sometimes, so keep trying, best bet is to PM him here and find out when to call him.

98Z28MASS

iTrader: (6)

Nice yea a forged 346/347 pushing 8-9 psi will be 500+ rwhp and very reliable. Glad to see someone who knows how much power they want instead of going all out, spending a ton of coin, and building an 800-1000 rwhp car that just isnt very useable when a 500+ rwhp car is more than enough on the street and can cut some 10 second time slips. If you want a really smooth idle the LPE GT2-3 cam is a very good choice and has had great results. Sounds like you have the supporting mods too to make it quite reliable. Good luck with the build and keep us updated!

BadMonkey

iTrader: (1)

I agree 100%.

Arc00TA

iTrader: (17)

Thanks, and yeah I came across the LPE GT2-3 a couple of times while I was looking for blower cams, it seems like a good choice. I'm not so much cocerned with having huge numbers as having a huge flat torque curve because I plan on keeping tall gears. I think I'm 1 out of 10000 who actually likes the 3.23's in the M6 car better than 4.10s. I'll probably end up with something around 3.50's for my 12 bolt but not as short as 3.73s or 3.90s. I like being able to cruise at 90mph and 1600rpm. I'm just sad that it will be 3+ months before I get to put any parts on the car, its like 6000 miles away from me right now.

98Z28MASS

iTrader: (6)

Yea with the maggie and the gt 2-3 cam you should have a nice flat torque curve. I like the idea of the 3.23 or 3.50 gears as it should allow you to have better traction and will def be better when crusing on the highway. Have you thought of what compression you would be looking at? Id say around 9.0:1 or so would be good depending on what fuel your looking to run or if your willing to use meth/alky injection. You will see some people prefer a sub 9.0:1 compression ratio and others prefer a 9.5:1 or so compression ratio. I would say since your staying with stock cubes then you should look at around 9.0-9.5:1 compression as that will give you more low end power. Are you having the car built while you are away or are you buying all the parts then putting the car together when you get home?

Arc00TA

iTrader: (17)

Yeah, I like the tall gearing so that will stay, I don't have very much of a traction problem at launch and it helps with gas mileage. I am trying to order as many parts as I can so it will be at my house with my roommate before I get back and I can start right away. I was looking at around 9.5:1 as my target, but I have to see what is best for the cali 91 grade **** water. I'm wondering about heads, I need to do a little research and see what I come up with.

98Z28MASS

iTrader: (6)

Yea I like the idea of 9.5:1 as you are not going to be pushing a ridiculous amount of boost into the engine and it will give you stronger numbers. Thats tough though with Cali gas only being 91 octane, you might have to look into meth/alky injection as a safeguard especially if in high temperatures. As for heads, you could look into a set of 317's or any of the LS6 heads. Since your not doing a max effort 800+ rwhp build you dont need a super expensive set of heads. You could either pick up a set of 317's cheap and have a shop clean them up and put in new dual springs or you could get a set from a sponsor. Also, check the for sale section as you might be able to pick up a good set used. Not sure how the 317's or the LS6 heads would alter your compression ration though.