brake line swap....TCS...bleeding
#1
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brake line swap....TCS...bleeding
just picked up a set of braided brake lines. had a discount coupon and needed to use it up.
figured the car is pushing 10yrs old, i'm assuming the fluid is original. bout time i did some work on the brakes.
the brake lines are pretty straight forward i think...but feel free to give tips.
the one i'm not sure of is the line for the TCS.
also what is the procedure for bleeding these? is it the usual pedal push/bleed manuver?
i've heard using a vacumn bleeder is not reccomended...although i have one. i don't see why it would be bad.
so what's the procedure for bleeding the whole brake system, lines, ABS and all?
figured the car is pushing 10yrs old, i'm assuming the fluid is original. bout time i did some work on the brakes.
the brake lines are pretty straight forward i think...but feel free to give tips.
the one i'm not sure of is the line for the TCS.
also what is the procedure for bleeding these? is it the usual pedal push/bleed manuver?
i've heard using a vacumn bleeder is not reccomended...although i have one. i don't see why it would be bad.
so what's the procedure for bleeding the whole brake system, lines, ABS and all?
#2
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I bled mine, the backs went like butter. I only used 4 lines, i didn't use/need the 5th one. Remember to replace the crush washer on the caliper.
The issue i had was with the fronts, i think i got air in the ABS module so i couldn't bleed them . I fucked up; i also used Solo Bleeders which were junk, total ******* junk. make sure the fluid resiouvour doesn't go completely empty and you should be ok...hence my mistake. I ended up having the car towed () b/c no matter what my father and i did we couldn NOT get pressure back into the system.
As far as bleeding goes; start with the tire farthest from the master cylinder (rear passenger), and pump the peddel until the fluid that comes out is clear. Then work your way up to the next farthest wheel.
The issue i had was with the fronts, i think i got air in the ABS module so i couldn't bleed them . I fucked up; i also used Solo Bleeders which were junk, total ******* junk. make sure the fluid resiouvour doesn't go completely empty and you should be ok...hence my mistake. I ended up having the car towed () b/c no matter what my father and i did we couldn NOT get pressure back into the system.
As far as bleeding goes; start with the tire farthest from the master cylinder (rear passenger), and pump the peddel until the fluid that comes out is clear. Then work your way up to the next farthest wheel.
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i think the air in the ABS module was caused by me letting the brake fluid resiouvour get completely dry. IDK, my Haynes manual said to NOT do the front brakes unless you have a bleeder and a Tech-II scan tool (i didn't read before i started). However, i know A LOT of ppl still do it the old fashion way. The back brakes were easy, i did the fronts the same and had issues, and i'm no stranger to working on cars.
Can someone else chime in?
Can someone else chime in?
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i think the air in the ABS module was caused by me letting the brake fluid resiouvour get completely dry. IDK, my Haynes manual said to NOT do the front brakes unless you have a bleeder and a Tech-II scan tool (i didn't read before i started). However, i know A LOT of ppl still do it the old fashion way. The back brakes were easy, i did the fronts the same and had issues, and i'm no stranger to working on cars.
Can someone else chime in?
Can someone else chime in?
#7
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I recently changed pads, rotors, and calipers on my 02 Z28. I bleed/flushed the brakes with ATE SuperBlue Fluid and Earl solo bleeders and the bleeders seemed to work great. The pedal is firmer than it has ever been in the 2.5 years that I have owned the car. Didn't do anything with the ABS module, hopefully their isn't any air in there that will come out next time the ABS is activated but I made sure I didn't let the reservoir go dry, never went below half.