Anyone use the GM 3-wire PCM/Gauge temp sender harness?
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Anyone use the GM 3-wire PCM/Gauge temp sender harness?
I ran across some info discussing using a new GM 3-wire harness that includes the PCM temp sensor and the gauge temp sender in one harness that is mounted in the same location as the PCM sender instead of the driver side head. I was curious if anyone here has that? I just want to hear some input on it.
My gauge temp sender and harness both broke during my header install, so this would be an easy solution.
My gauge temp sender and harness both broke during my header install, so this would be an easy solution.
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This is the website I found it at
http://www.fastlouis.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=249
"Part No Description Cost
10096181 PCM/Gauge sending unit $14.81
12102748 Connector pigtail (incl. terminals) $17.29"
Says the same harness is used as a TPS harness ($10) , and the wires can just be spliced together into the PCM and gauge wires.
Seeing how it reads the water pump temp instead of the head temp, how would that affect the gauge?
http://www.fastlouis.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=249
"Part No Description Cost
10096181 PCM/Gauge sending unit $14.81
12102748 Connector pigtail (incl. terminals) $17.29"
Says the same harness is used as a TPS harness ($10) , and the wires can just be spliced together into the PCM and gauge wires.
Seeing how it reads the water pump temp instead of the head temp, how would that affect the gauge?
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Basically, you install the new 3 wire sensor unit and re-connect the original PCM wire and ground to sensor in waterpump housing. The wires from the drivers side head temp sensor unit would be cut and extended to the new sensor using the 3rd wire. Now you have the factory gauge reading the temp from the same sensor that the PCM reads for coolant temp. So, in theory the factory gauge should be more accurate based on the assumption that the waterpump housing gives better resolution of coolant readings. There is a better way to get the factory gauge to read more accurately, purchase a Aeroforce Interceptor gauge and it will read the PCM temp coolant and then you can recalibrate your factory gauge to the PCM's readings. The Aeroforce gauge also gives you an enormous amount of additional information coming from the PCM which can be very helpful with other problems.
I mounted my Aeroforce (GEN II) gauge in the left A/C vent:
I mounted my Aeroforce (GEN II) gauge in the left A/C vent:
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Ok so i just installed the 3wire harness coolant temp sensor and harness today. I ordered a TPS harness (same harness) and installed it. The temp gauge stays a little lower than it used to, but i would imagine its more accurate, and at least you are seeing what the PCM is seeing, with the gauge being sensored at the water pump now.
It usually hangs around like 180-185 while cruising down the road where it used to hang around 190-195. But, my concern is if the water pump or a bad leak happened, wouldn't it be more beneficial to see the temperature of the heads rather than the water pump, because they would get hot faster?
It usually hangs around like 180-185 while cruising down the road where it used to hang around 190-195. But, my concern is if the water pump or a bad leak happened, wouldn't it be more beneficial to see the temperature of the heads rather than the water pump, because they would get hot faster?
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Ok so i just installed the 3wire harness coolant temp sensor and harness today. I ordered a TPS harness (same harness) and installed it. The temp gauge stays a little lower than it used to, but i would imagine its more accurate, and at least you are seeing what the PCM is seeing, with the gauge being sensored at the water pump now.
It usually hangs around like 180-185 while cruising down the road where it used to hang around 190-195. But, my concern is if the water pump or a bad leak happened, wouldn't it be more beneficial to see the temperature of the heads rather than the water pump, because they would get hot faster?
It usually hangs around like 180-185 while cruising down the road where it used to hang around 190-195. But, my concern is if the water pump or a bad leak happened, wouldn't it be more beneficial to see the temperature of the heads rather than the water pump, because they would get hot faster?
As for how you'd wire it, you'd want the second one in this picture, the ON-ON switch. Where as, if I'm reading it right, the middle terminal would run to the gauge and the outer ones would be from the sensors. (Mind you the pictured ones are for high voltage AC, and you'd want a DC, even though it probably doesn't matter)
http://www.cablesandconnectors.com/PIX/phi152.jpg