POP/ backfire?
07-31-2008, 02:10 PM
#1
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POP/ backfire? I have a '00 Z28 with a Corsa catback, I get a pop or backfire at WOT when the car shifts, its an A4 with a 3200 stall. I dont have a shift kit and I feel like it takes way too long in between gears. Is this something that is normal for my setup, is it a torque management issue? I dont have it professionally tuned yet so is that gonna help? I get pretty annoyed with it, it sounds like crap whenever I do a hole shot. So what gives?
07-31-2008, 02:28 PM
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I have almost your exact same setup. i have GMMG, 3200 stall, lid, smooth bellow, stock trans, stock gears, (2.73s). I get some pop in the exhaust too, and it is annoying.
From what i've read a shift kit is a must if you are going to keep the stock gears. The shifts just get washed out, and it dont think its got to do with the TQ management. I had a hypertech before and i tried upping the line pressure which you probably tried as well, but it doesn't make a difference. I think its a mechanical thing, with the new torque converter being lighter and easier to spin then the stocker, means its lighter in between shifts.
Basically go to bigger gears, 3.42s, 3.73s, or 4.10s, or the much cheaper fix is to get a shift kit.
From what i've read a shift kit is a must if you are going to keep the stock gears. The shifts just get washed out, and it dont think its got to do with the TQ management. I had a hypertech before and i tried upping the line pressure which you probably tried as well, but it doesn't make a difference. I think its a mechanical thing, with the new torque converter being lighter and easier to spin then the stocker, means its lighter in between shifts.
Basically go to bigger gears, 3.42s, 3.73s, or 4.10s, or the much cheaper fix is to get a shift kit.
07-31-2008, 03:47 PM
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the stock merge is actually better than most ypipe merge's on the market, except for ARH, mufflex, and custom y-pipes. Don't think a merge would cause popping either. Could be a number of things causing it.
07-31-2008, 03:51 PM
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I have a corsa. when my car was stock except for the corsa it would pop. I got headers a custom y-pipe and removed the cats. It doesn't pop now. just my .02
07-31-2008, 07:34 PM
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Hypertech Power Programer III
since you have a tuner run a datalog. See if you are losing power up top because of it.
My guess is that your running a little rich and that excess fuel is being burnt up
since you have a tuner run a datalog. See if you are losing power up top because of it.
My guess is that your running a little rich and that excess fuel is being burnt up
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08-01-2008, 08:18 AM
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I still have the stock Y planning on getting LTs soon, I was lookin at the pacesetters and ORY from Texas Speed, it seems like the best deal out there. Would a custom Y be that much better? As far as the tuner goes, I don't have the handheld unit, long story, it was "lost" while moving by the guy I bought the car from.
It does get a little raspy at high RPM but I get some popping when it is shifting, I have hear that increasing the line pressure only effects partial throttle shifts, that at WOT it doesn't change anything.
So basically I need to get my LTs, shift kit, and get a good tune and everything should be fine and my ears will be happy too
It does get a little raspy at high RPM but I get some popping when it is shifting, I have hear that increasing the line pressure only effects partial throttle shifts, that at WOT it doesn't change anything.
So basically I need to get my LTs, shift kit, and get a good tune and everything should be fine and my ears will be happy too
08-01-2008, 10:26 AM
#10
That pop is pretty much just unburnt fuel. When I drive my car right after I start it, when it's colder outside, I get that pop alot. Also, now with a cutout always open, that fuel from our cars running rich gets burnt faster exiting in the exhaust manifolds and I pipe, as opposed to running through the mufflers and cooling down a bit. Get it tuned when you get your full exhaust, and it should be alot better.
08-01-2008, 12:16 PM
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I forgot to mention that I planned to do plugs and wires too, its got just over 93k on the clock, and not sure if the plugs and wires were ever changed out. I wanted to wait until I did the LTs to make it easier but I don't know if I want to wait that long now.
08-01-2008, 04:17 PM
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spark plugs need to be changed every 30k miles for best performance. GM claims that the plugs in your car are good for up to 100k miles, but i wouldnt believe it... Be safe and change em every 30k miles...
08-04-2008, 01:05 PM
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So I am leaning toward the NGK iridium plugs, and what about the coil packs should those be replaced too? If so are the MSD packs worth the money or is there a better option?
