Evaporate

iTrader: (22)

I'm finally wrapping things up after months of the car being apart. I used braided fuel lines from the fuel rail to the hard lines spot under the seat.
Where the braided lines connect to the hard lines under the driver seat area, it leaks bad when I try to crank the motor over.

I went thru the whole process of flaring the hard lines. My flares weren't perfect but they appear fine when I pull everything apart where it leaks at the connection. I tried to retighten things and still it leaks. I was told I don't need to use anything on the threads except for lube to prevent marring. There are a couple of tiny mars from when I installed w/o lube.

What can I do to stop the leaks??

Evaporate

iTrader: (22)

Does the flare's outer rim edge need to be larger than the flare nut end itself? Maybe it's possible that the flare doesn't extend far enough, allowing fuel to leak over and past the threads of the flare nut. Sound right?

Old Geezer

iTrader: (3)

Braided lines are usually made w/ AN fittings. [37*]
##Did you use a 37* flare tool?
##Are the fuel lines on the car made of mild steel, welded tubing? If so, it could be that the weld seam is causing the leak, unless you double flared the line.
## Scars on the seal surface will cause this problem, regardless of the materials used.
## Crooked flares will leak.

Prepping a tube for flaring is a process that requires several steps.
Clean/square cut. Tube cutters can/will deform the tube and cause problems. I always cut the tube w/ a cutoff wheel, to avoid this.
Bevelling of inner and outer edges.
Correct positioning of tube in the flare tool.

HTH,

MeentSS02

iTrader: (11)

You need to go back and try cutting the flare off and re-flare the line...if it isn't perfectly perpendicular (the cut), it'll leak.

The tube nut and sleeve along with a 37* flare should seal just fine.

Evaporate

iTrader: (22)

****.

Old Geezer, It's the stock fuel lines so mild steel. I bought and used this double flare tool under the assumption that it was 45*, the box doesn't mention whether it's 37* or 45*. Will it matter at this point and should I just do a single flare job on it?

I will use my dremel this time to cut the pipe. The opening always looks lopsided w/ one end of the inside of the tube usually having more meat than the other. I've just been worried that with all that fuel down there, something bad might happen. The tubes each are old and have slight bends making it difficult to work with below the car.

MeentSS02, what does the 37* angle describe? the angle to which the flare leaves the tube?

The tool I've been using: http://www.toolking.com/performancetools_w80670.aspx

Thanks for the great info so far guys!

MeentSS02

iTrader: (11)

That looks like it is your problem...if you are doing a single flare, and using a tube sleeve and tube nut to hook up to an AN fitting, you need to make a 37* flare...that tool that you are using I'm 99% sure makes a 45* flare.

ss1

iTrader: (32)

I'd be a little hesitant about cutting a fuel line with fuel in it with a Dremel...

Evaporate

iTrader: (22)

Meent, That's what I'm thinking. I'll look for one of those tools then tomorrow and give it a try. That makes me feel much more hopeful about things.

ss1, I'm not sure what to think on that. I tried the dremel once and from a single spark, I decided to put it down. I'll try cleaning the tubes up first if it comes down to using it.

ss1

iTrader: (32)

Yeah, I'd try the tubing cutter again, then prep it like Old Geezer described.

If you can't get anything to work, try a tube/sleeve compression type -AN fitting of the appropriate size. It's late and I'm not sure exactly what they're called right now.

Evaporate

iTrader: (22)

ss1, if you get a chance, please let me know what part you are speaking of. As long as I wouldn't have to alter the new braided lines with their -AN fittings, that would sound like an awesome option.

Thanks

ss1

iTrader: (32)

The Russell ones say they're for aluminum tubing, but I'd think they'd work on steel. Earl's doesn't specify what they can be used on, probably anything. Summit also has their own brand and lists them for aluminum or stainless line. I'm sure Aeroquip offers the same fittings also.

http://www.holley.com/165106ERL.asp

http://www.russellperformance.com/mc...adapters.shtml

Please excuse the "non-sponsor" link:
http://store.summitracing.com/egnsea...5&autoview=sku

Evaporate

iTrader: (22)

Just wanted to give a huge thanks to you guys for all the advice. I finally got her up and running again. I used ss1's advice for the compression fittings. Unbelievably easy to use, I can't believe the lines aren't simply sold with compression fittings to start with! I even bought a 37* flare kit and I couldn't get things perfect, it kept leaking. Advice to others who go braided fuel lines to hard lines like me, just get the fittings, don't waste your time trying to flare.

It's been about 11 months since I last drove it cuz of multiple little projects like this and waiting on my new wheels. I went with black ccw classics on my black Ws6 .

ss1

iTrader: (32)

Awesome! I'm glad it worked out for you

stevieturbo

But also take note of the quoted safe pressure limits for compression fittings




Even if they do hold a lot more. Especially on steel.