sciff5

iTrader: (1)

If I were to do most of the work myself this seems to be how the math would break down for a Tc76 single turbo setup for my Ls1/rx7 buying stuff used as much as possible.

C6 manifolds/ Truck manifolds/ Gto manifolds (really what ever fits) - 50$
stainless steel mandrel bends for hot side - 100$ (Anyone ever used a cutout for a merge pipe? Like something like this http://store.summitracing.com/largei...ed-16225_w.jpg)
Tial 44mm wastegate - 300$
TC76 turbo - 1000$
Aluminized bends for Cold side- 100$
EBAY fmic - 350$
Tial 50mm bov - 250$
Silicone couplers that you buy in 1'/3' sections and cut down - 50$
Boost gauge - 200$
sd tune - 600$
injectors (dont know what size I'de need) - 300$
walbro 255 - 150$
exhaust manifold wrap / turbo blanket - 200$
oil lines - 50$
Labor - 250$
Other **** - 200$

Comes out to 4550$


What am I forgetting? Let not get into drivetrain or bottom end supporting mods becaue they dont correlate directly to turbo systems.. but are a nescessity in regards to going fast in general whether you choose nitrous supercharger or turbo. I am figure the 200$ for labor off the fact my buddy is doing my true dual 3 in for 150$ in labor if I provide the parts and I would only need him to do the hotside. The coldside I can do myself.

I figure I'de run this setup on just the wastegate spring on a stock motor and try to shoot for 500 whp untill it blows up then build the bottom and and shoot to max out the turbo (if I can control the car at even 500whp) and I'm looking for some ways to cut cost on this setup.. Like I dont know that I nessecarily need "tial" brand stuff but its the only stuff I trust but am open to cheaper effective alternatives.

code4

iTrader: (30)

You're low on some stuff & forgetting others things. I noticed off the top of my head the flanges & 2 bar sensor. But that's a good example of how you will get nickled & dimed to death.

As far as labor I think you are low but maybe you're guy is super fast & is one of those people that can slap something together. My set up was totally fabricated by my wife & I. It was very cost effective but I have ~1k hours into, no b.s. We also have a complete shop with lift & all the tools. But I am slow & thorough.

Slvr00Bird

iTrader: (2)

I believe there is a sticky on this...

code4

iTrader: (30)

Mos def, mandatory read:https://ls1tech.com/forums/forced-induction/567592-real-price-forced-induction.html

Broke EF

There is supposed to be more info in the sticky, but someone is lazy

Sean

Sideways240sx

iTrader: (22)

Its missing pictures someone was supposed to work on and there aren't prices, just tech/details.

lol, back to topic. There is lots missing. You will probably end up moving rad, atleast going to pusher fans. Fluids, plugs, map sensor, t bolts, vband, flanges, gaskets, misc hardware, Fittings, SS lines, Vacuum line, boost gauge. yada yada.

If your going to do it, id have a couple thousand extra on top of what you plan. I didn't cut any corners, i bought good stuff when i needed it, and probably came close to near 7. I stopped counting early on, it only makes you sad.

Chris

ForcedInduction

iTrader: (2)

Hes right, always plan on extra. Coming in under budget is always a good feeling. I have just under $10k invested in my truck and that includes the price of the truck, the 5.3 swap, turbo setup and trans and rearend. Like Most on this board I did all the work myself, and the stuff I can't do very well(welding) my buddy did for me. I'll admit, I didnt use top dollar items on every thing. On the items that really matter, I spent the money.

sciff5

iTrader: (1)

Did you build your own exhaust manifolds and do all your own mandrel bends? I cant see any other way that it would take that long.

To all the guys saying I should read the sticky. I've done so many times as well as searched and as mentioned earlier there was no talk of prices so referring to the stickies aint gonna help.

bgblockelcamino

iTrader: (9)

you will be surprised in how the hours add up. i am prob couple hundred in a setup that i am building for someone. but i did motor, k member, complete fuel system. mounting intercooler. built and welded all the charge pipe. built full 4 inch exhaust from turbo back over axle to twin tips. relocating battery in back.
there are so many minor details that it is not even funny. the big stuff is cheap just keep that in mind. the little stuff is what blows the budget.

Derek @ EDO

iTrader: (73)

T-bolt clamps
Gauges (Fuel pressure, wideband, boost gauge)
boost controller
2bar sensor
flanges (turbo and manifold)
o2 bungs
flex couplings
oil fittings for turbo
AN fittings
header wrap
meth injection depending on boost level
Fluids
Cleaners

What do you plan on getting done for the 250.00 in labor? (not a smart comment, an actual question)

sciff5

iTrader: (1)

Weld together the stainless steel hotside, weld in the o2 bungs, weld together the mergepipe and weld the t4 flange on it. Also putting in provisions for a wastegate on the mergepipe. If you guys say I need flextubing then I would just have him use the flex tube in place of a straight section.

Like I said I just need him to do some welding for the hotside. I can do the cold side.

code4

iTrader: (30)

That was doing everything. I pulled the engine & built it all myself. Built a t-400 & did that conversion including switching from m6 pedals to a factory single auto brake pedal. Fabricated a stand up radiator. Then all the turbo kit including full exhaust with a cut out. No silicone couplers except at the FMIC, Turbo, & TB. The rest I tig welded.

sciff5

iTrader: (1)

I meen from the sounds of it you did things "the right way" by anyones standards. I meen you prob did more work on your car than I did on my rx7 making the Ls1/t56 fit in it. My setup will be a lot less complex, especially initially when I'm running like 8lbs on a stock motor. I am looking at a very basic setup. My whole car has been about function over form. I'm not changing out the tranny or building my own headers. I'll be using a lot more silicone couplers on the cold side. Yes they have a higher chance of blowing off but I dont think I'll ever be running enough boost to really have it be a huge concern. From the looks of it to get the turbo to fit I'll have to take the puller fan off my radiator and get a pusher and obviously the FMIC would go out front under the bumper. The tranny will be fine stock all I need to do is put the Oz700 clutch in there that I have sitting at my place and with the limited traction availabe and the lightweight of the car I should be fine even if I were pushing 700-800whp but changing the clutch and building the bottom end is more a measure needed when going fast in general and doesnt correlate to a turbo setup persay. If you went with nitrous or a supercharger you'de have to do the same thing. Which is what I was saying in my original post.

Most people on here say it takes 20-30 grand to do a turbo setup but I think thats confusing to a lot of people. I think it takes 20-30 grand to go 9s/8s but not to have a turbo setup. Most people on here I think are talking about all the costs associated with going fast rather than the cost of the actual turbo setup its self. Thats why I wanted to clarify how much ti would actually cost for just the turbo system as a means of going fast rather than the cost of actually going fast... if that makes any sense.

BTW I started thinking abou what it would take to make serious power NA and the numbers come out pretty high as well relativly speaking.

These are approx numbers (buying used where you can)
Heads and valvetrain - 2k
Fast 90/90 1k
Injectors - 350-400
Tune - 500
Cam - 300
Gaskets and other crap - 150

Approx 4400 without building the bottom end and doing all the work yourself.

Derek @ EDO

iTrader: (73)

I think evryone knows a turbo kit does not cost 20-30k lol.
The problem is that a turbo kit does not come with injectors or fueling, nor does it come with tuning or gauges.
I think most guys on here want a dependable ride that they can cruise to the track with and run 10's without the fear of being towed home.
In order to have that level of dependability you must upgrade parts like your drivetrain and valve train.
20-30k goes by fast even if you are doing all of the work.
Transmission
Torque converter
rear end
suspension
engine mods
tires
boost control
wheels
tuning galore
alky injection
safety (cage, ds loop etc.)

all this stuff comes into play when you want to hve a fast dependable ride.

If all you ant to run is 8lbs throw a set of dual springs on with an ls6 cam get a good clutch and do a little suspension work and go at it.. The problem is you always want more and with a turbo "more" is only a **** away.

sciff5

iTrader: (1)

Yeah I hear you. For my setup it gets much more expensive after about 500-550whp because thats when the bottom end needs to be upgraded as well as being the exact same point where the mazda rear end starts to break ring gears/ stub shafts/ halfshafts. I can put a ford 8.8 in there but it costs 2k. Another reason why I may just keep it on the stock motor for a while.

Fireball

iTrader: (21)

SS requires tig welding which requires tight fitting joints, back purging, etc. $250 is only ~3-4 hours labor...it'll take alot longer than what you think...

Turbo LS1 SS

iTrader: (7)

mine was closer to 6500...

thats included 90$ v-bands, 4" cutout, jet-hot, full tig, S88, radiator, all the works

sciff5

iTrader: (1)

Ehh... thats not good.. Your right though I would reallY need to go Mild steel/aluminized to keep labor down. I would think the true dual 3in aluminized from the headers to the exhaust tips would take more than 3-4 hours though and thats what hes chargin me.. so I must be getting a really good rate on labor.

Turbo Ls1 SS if your setup can be done for 6500.. (did you do all the work yourself btw) I should deff be able to do mine for 5k without the jethot a smaller turbo ect

sciff5

iTrader: (1)

Btw I want to use stainless steel for the hotside but tigging anything makes labor a lot more expensive. I dont really need the bling factor of stainless I am an all go no show sort of guy so I would rather go with mild/aluminized if I could keep it from rusting.

Can I go with aluminized or mild steel if I just put some black satin on it or other high temp ceramic based paint. I have heard that aluminized coating cant stand up to the heat an exhaust manifold experiences and will flake off thus I should just get mild steel and coat it with the high temp stuff like "black satin" which is supposedly good to like 2000 degrees. I know the heating/cooling of the metal draws moisture to it making anything more prone to rust and I want it to last a while. Also the thickest gauge stuff I can find is 14/16 gauge. I am not sure thats thick enough to last. I will be wrapping it with header wrap and coating the wrap, to hopefully reduce rust again.. but I am sure the thinner metal has a better chance of cracking even if I run flex sections.

smokinHawk

iTrader: (48)

if you are going to paint it use aluminized, mine has been doing fine, if your going to coat it use aluminize or mild. if you use mild and just paint then wrap it will rust quickly.