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dry guys come on in PLEASE

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Old 08-05-2008, 10:17 PM
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Default dry guys come on in PLEASE

ok so here is the deal i have a hybrid kit on my car but all nos stuff.. running the twin 5177 noids and 1 line in to the lid.. now i have a .065 jet in it which is a 150 shot i only picked up 100rw from this shot which i guess i am cool with but here is my question the a/f was 12.8 on this pull... we have since added fuel to get it to 12.4 but i belive i also had a low bottle like 1lb on this last pull.. so if the pressure was at 900-950 on those runs should i still be getting the same a/f reading on a full bottle? or is it gonna change i have a narrow band autometer a/f gauge but no wide band and should it have put more to the wheels on that shot? sorry just dont wanna melt my 408 down haha.. i do know the first 2 pulls the a/f was 13.5ish because i was trying to spray from the side of the lid but put the line in the neck and it works like a champ..... thanks again guys
Old 08-06-2008, 12:06 AM
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i know your pain (which is why i love my nano kit and hsw interface).

its gonna change unless you keep the pressure the same.
if you increase the pressure, you'll get a bigger hit and maybe your maf will get it right if you found the right spot. it's best to keep an eye on on your a/f with the higher bottle pressure.

Last edited by BobDoLe; 08-06-2008 at 03:39 AM.
Old 08-06-2008, 12:07 AM
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you need to get the hsw interface. i got it for my dry kit after i melted two plugs and i havnt had a problem spraying since i got it working. get a full bottle in the manual its says you shouldnt let it drop to bellow like 15lbs if you want a good hit
Old 08-06-2008, 08:05 AM
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well i know it was still hitting on the dyno and had great pressure.... i am just hoping that after i fill it the a/f's will still be the same since i dont have a wide band... yet
Old 08-06-2008, 09:25 AM
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You need to get that afr in the 11s. Can you tune yourself? If so, fatten up the PE tables first. Then, as you make adjustments, you'll be able to back off the PE tables... but you won't melt the motor.
If you're seeing 12s (and omg 13s), your nozzle isn't in a good place. Shoot some pics.
Also, what mods have you made to the fuel system? DC on your injectors?
Old 08-06-2008, 10:15 AM
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walbro 255 and svo 42lbers speed inc rails its a straight shooting nozzel and its in the neck of the lid pointing more towards the inside of the lid like filter side.. but the a/f was the same on the nitrous pass as my motor pass... is that bad?

Old 08-06-2008, 10:20 AM
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Originally Posted by 98mysticZ
walbro 255 and svo 42lbers its a straight shooting nozzel and its in the neck of the lid pointing more towards the inside of the lid like filter side.. but the a/f was the same on the nitrous pass as my motor pass... is that bad?
typically you want to run a little bit richer on the nitrous pass than the motor pass for safeties sake. However, 13.5:1 is a little high for a street/conservative application. Can you post the graphs? I had to go to another tuner to get the bugs worked out. You may have to do the same.
Old 08-06-2008, 10:22 AM
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BTW, that is where my nozzle is located as well. Just want to make sure it is pointing away from the MAF. If it is pointed towards it then you may end up freezing it.
Old 08-06-2008, 10:42 AM
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you can't 'freeze' the maf. You can get a little build up on the screen if it's still there. This has been beat to DEATH on here. If you still have a screen, rip it out.
Secondly, you want the nozzle spraying ON the wires.. not away from. Spraying on the wires will richen up the mixture. This has also been beat to death on here. The velocity of the spray, along with the freezing characteristics, will tell the maf and the iat exactly what's coming in and adjust for it. If you spray away from the wires, neither device knows the N2o is there.
Where you have your nozzle is pretty good however, you need a 90* so it sprays right on the wires.
If you don't think I'm correct.. go over to nitrousfourm and ask Robert56. He LOVES dry questions.
Old 08-06-2008, 12:08 PM
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Originally Posted by Todd157k
you can't 'freeze' the maf. You can get a little build up on the screen if it's still there. This has been beat to DEATH on here. If you still have a screen, rip it out.
Secondly, you want the nozzle spraying ON the wires.. not away from. Spraying on the wires will richen up the mixture. This has also been beat to death on here. The velocity of the spray, along with the freezing characteristics, will tell the maf and the iat exactly what's coming in and adjust for it. If you spray away from the wires, neither device knows the N2o is there.
Where you have your nozzle is pretty good however, you need a 90* so it sprays right on the wires.
If you don't think I'm correct.. go over to nitrousfourm and ask Robert56. He LOVES dry questions.
x1 on what he said
Old 08-06-2008, 12:21 PM
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I tried 2 different nozzle locations that worked for some people. Made my car go dangerously lean.

The HSW Interface fixed it and now I'm spraying the dry shot after the MAF...will be getting the plate soon to replace the nozzle.
Old 08-07-2008, 05:23 PM
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point it towards the maf 3-4 inches before the maf and you will be fine. Also get your A/F in you NA applications to 13.1-13.3 at the most. if you are spraying look into the dynotune lean shutdown switch- its cheap and works and will help you from blowing up your motor.




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