OBX Headers
#2
A couple of guys have installed em without much trouble at all and they got pretty decent numbers aswell which surprised me as the primaries are .70" instead of the normal .75"
#4
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The primaries are 1.70" instead of 1.75". Not a significant difference at all unless you have a HUGE cam. Then it might matter. I had a set on my 2000 Sierra, and they were great. After a year of driving in snow, rain, etc., they still look brand new. I am impressed. So impressed that I am considering them for my C5 I'm getting.
#5
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I have had OBX headers on my Z28 for a couple of years and have enjoyed every day of it. Those who have seen my headers had compliments for the welds and flange thickness. Highly recommended as long as you have all the gaskets, bolts, etc. ready for the install. My kit was not complete! Good luck.
#6
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If you search around to some of the corvette forums, it's pretty much a 50/50 split - the purists hate them, and the wrench-turners love them. The only problems I've heard of on a C5 are the o2 bungs hitting the plate underneath and the harness just BARELY being long enough to reach. Also, OBX doesn't provide any flanges or hardware on the kit - what you see, is what you get.
Personally, I think I'm gong to give them a shot. You really can't go wrong on the price.
Personally, I think I'm gong to give them a shot. You really can't go wrong on the price.
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#9
LOL, no not me bro. reason i say that, i bought a catback off ebay that looks just like borla, is made of T304 SS just like borla and to be honest....i should have paid the money and got the borla. But i know what you mean.
#10
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I would never compare that though man. I've used these headers and they are honestly better than any other header for that price or even within a couple hundred dollars. I mean, stainless that has good welds and thick flanges for that price is amazing. There will be on my car when i go to headers. It's easier to mimic a header than a quality muffler sound imho.
#11
I would never compare that though man. I've used these headers and they are honestly better than any other header for that price or even within a couple hundred dollars. I mean, stainless that has good welds and thick flanges for that price is amazing. There will be on my car when i go to headers. It's easier to mimic a header than a quality muffler sound imho.
#14
hashtagBMW
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If you search around to some of the corvette forums, it's pretty much a 50/50 split - the purists hate them, and the wrench-turners love them. The only problems I've heard of on a C5 are the o2 bungs hitting the plate underneath and the harness just BARELY being long enough to reach. Also, OBX doesn't provide any flanges or hardware on the kit - what you see, is what you get.
Personally, I think I'm gong to give them a shot. You really can't go wrong on the price.
Personally, I think I'm gong to give them a shot. You really can't go wrong on the price.
This is what I was gona say, ive been searching for a few days now and 50/50 is what I keep seeing. Basicaly its bad quality control from the company itself...
Ill be picking up some LG streets because Id rather buy once then have to buy twice and deal with the ****.
Tony.
#15
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I was considering buying these too but I found a deal for some used FLP LT's on ebay that was much cheaper than these. If I had not found the FLPs then I would've eventually given these a shot. Despite what some of these stainless guys think you're not going to have rusted out ceramic coated headers one year down the road.
#17
To answer your original question..
I purchased the obx headers knowing that there were issues in the past with the ssac headers. So i went into this knowing that there may be some bending heating /welding to be done.. I can say that my headers fit without issue.. I'm having my o2s relocated to provide better clearance and to install an extra bung for a wide band.. Is this required ? no I dont want to cut holes in my tunnel plate i have an after market coated one that is thicker, stock you can clearance with a hammer.. I went with these over tsp because i wanted stainless.. Are there better headers out there that make more power yes.
If your looking to get every ounce of hp you can then by all means get the 1 7/8 kooks or lgs a/r and so on.. For me i wanted an AFFORDABLE stainless street header that would give the most bang for the buck!!!
They are what they claim they are and I would buy them again hope this helps
I purchased the obx headers knowing that there were issues in the past with the ssac headers. So i went into this knowing that there may be some bending heating /welding to be done.. I can say that my headers fit without issue.. I'm having my o2s relocated to provide better clearance and to install an extra bung for a wide band.. Is this required ? no I dont want to cut holes in my tunnel plate i have an after market coated one that is thicker, stock you can clearance with a hammer.. I went with these over tsp because i wanted stainless.. Are there better headers out there that make more power yes.
If your looking to get every ounce of hp you can then by all means get the 1 7/8 kooks or lgs a/r and so on.. For me i wanted an AFFORDABLE stainless street header that would give the most bang for the buck!!!
They are what they claim they are and I would buy them again hope this helps
#18
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Update:
I just installed my set last weekend, and here are my findings:
Like I stated before, the bungs are welded in such a way that when you put in the O2 sensors, the plate that runs the bottom of your driveshaft inhibits it from installing correctly. At this point, you have two choices; either whip out the BFH (not recommended) or you can remove the plate and modify a small orifice to gain enough clearance for the end of the sensor.
The second issue I had was with the welding around the #5 primary tube. The weld looked shotty at best. No problem; I just made a pass with my MIG and was done with it.
The third issue was with the hardware. I knew going in that OBX didn't provide any hardware with the kit. Piecing it together was a bitch and it took about 3 trips to NAPA to get the correct lengths. That was more of my fault, because I didn't read the DIY post on corvetteforum entirely. One of the members tells you exactly what hardware to buy. I'm a dumbass and didn't read it, so I can't blame the manufacturer for that one.
Overall Impression:
I haven't had the car tuned yet, so I can't comment on the total power gains. However, you can definitely tell a difference in the SOTP. Traditionally long tubes take away your low end, but for some reason, my low rpm response has increased. I'm not sure how much it will change after a tune, but for right now, you can definitely tell a power increase.
I'm waiting for my cam and head swap to get a tune, so I won't have any actual figures for you guys to observe. I have been working on LS based engines for a while and I can claim that they are comparable in the power aspect - as far as longevity is concerned, I guess only time will tell.
I paid $619.00 plus additional hardware and gaskets. My total cost for this was $659.13. Total time invested was about 5 hours and 4 beers. I'm also factoring in that I did this by myself, using nothing more than drive up ramps and basic hand tools. I'm not a mechanic, I sell insurance - so that means any douchebag with 2 thumbs and a ratchet can do this.
A lot of you have been asking about the sound. The sound really hasn't changed much at idle - however, keep in my mind that my engine is completely stock at this point. The only modification done to the car is a TI Z06 exhaust. But when you step on it, the sounds is DEFINITELY louder. It's not to the point where it's deafening, but it certainly is an attention getter.
So for the masses of you out there scratching your head, wondering if you should take the plunge - don't look towards this post as gospel, rather, just one guy that had good luck with them. I'd like to say they're just as good as "name brand" headers, but I'm not qualified enough to make that judgment. I would say, however, if you've got $650.00 burning a hole in your pocket and a Saturday to spare, go for it!
Vince
I just installed my set last weekend, and here are my findings:
Like I stated before, the bungs are welded in such a way that when you put in the O2 sensors, the plate that runs the bottom of your driveshaft inhibits it from installing correctly. At this point, you have two choices; either whip out the BFH (not recommended) or you can remove the plate and modify a small orifice to gain enough clearance for the end of the sensor.
The second issue I had was with the welding around the #5 primary tube. The weld looked shotty at best. No problem; I just made a pass with my MIG and was done with it.
The third issue was with the hardware. I knew going in that OBX didn't provide any hardware with the kit. Piecing it together was a bitch and it took about 3 trips to NAPA to get the correct lengths. That was more of my fault, because I didn't read the DIY post on corvetteforum entirely. One of the members tells you exactly what hardware to buy. I'm a dumbass and didn't read it, so I can't blame the manufacturer for that one.
Overall Impression:
I haven't had the car tuned yet, so I can't comment on the total power gains. However, you can definitely tell a difference in the SOTP. Traditionally long tubes take away your low end, but for some reason, my low rpm response has increased. I'm not sure how much it will change after a tune, but for right now, you can definitely tell a power increase.
I'm waiting for my cam and head swap to get a tune, so I won't have any actual figures for you guys to observe. I have been working on LS based engines for a while and I can claim that they are comparable in the power aspect - as far as longevity is concerned, I guess only time will tell.
I paid $619.00 plus additional hardware and gaskets. My total cost for this was $659.13. Total time invested was about 5 hours and 4 beers. I'm also factoring in that I did this by myself, using nothing more than drive up ramps and basic hand tools. I'm not a mechanic, I sell insurance - so that means any douchebag with 2 thumbs and a ratchet can do this.
A lot of you have been asking about the sound. The sound really hasn't changed much at idle - however, keep in my mind that my engine is completely stock at this point. The only modification done to the car is a TI Z06 exhaust. But when you step on it, the sounds is DEFINITELY louder. It's not to the point where it's deafening, but it certainly is an attention getter.
So for the masses of you out there scratching your head, wondering if you should take the plunge - don't look towards this post as gospel, rather, just one guy that had good luck with them. I'd like to say they're just as good as "name brand" headers, but I'm not qualified enough to make that judgment. I would say, however, if you've got $650.00 burning a hole in your pocket and a Saturday to spare, go for it!
Vince
#19
Im in the middle of a heads cam swap so i havent got to hear what theu sound like yet..
I second everything you stated, I read the diy thread over there so i already had what i needed..
Yoe wouldnt happen to have a sound clip would ya ??
I second everything you stated, I read the diy thread over there so i already had what i needed..
Yoe wouldnt happen to have a sound clip would ya ??