How much torque to rotate bottom end?
08-10-2008, 09:00 PM
#1
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How much torque to rotate bottom end? Hey guys,
I'm rebuilding my first LS1 (2000) and have a question. With the crank only installed and torque / angled correctly, the thing will spin very easily by hand.
Now though, I've got all pistons in, and caps torque / angled correctly, but it's hard as crap to turn the crank now. Actually, it takes 78 ft. lbs. to do it. The cam / valve train is not in yet, so I'm only trying to turn the rotating assy. I have not built a V8 in years, but this seems tight to me.
Can any anlighten me maybe? My father-laws '91 5.0 (Ford) was much easier to turn than this thing is, and it was a full motor.
BTW, lots of 30 weight oil is everywhere it should be.
Oh yeah, stock crank and (new) stock bearings are used here.
Thoughts please....
I'm rebuilding my first LS1 (2000) and have a question. With the crank only installed and torque / angled correctly, the thing will spin very easily by hand.
Now though, I've got all pistons in, and caps torque / angled correctly, but it's hard as crap to turn the crank now. Actually, it takes 78 ft. lbs. to do it. The cam / valve train is not in yet, so I'm only trying to turn the rotating assy. I have not built a V8 in years, but this seems tight to me.
Can any anlighten me maybe? My father-laws '91 5.0 (Ford) was much easier to turn than this thing is, and it was a full motor.
BTW, lots of 30 weight oil is everywhere it should be.
Oh yeah, stock crank and (new) stock bearings are used here.
Thoughts please....
08-10-2008, 09:15 PM
#2
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this dont sound right, my complete 6.0 with valvtrain installed turns easier then that.
i can turn it by the flex plate, its tough, but dont think its 78ftlbs. (plugs out of course)
i can turn it by the flex plate, its tough, but dont think its 78ftlbs. (plugs out of course)
08-10-2008, 10:25 PM
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08-10-2008, 11:29 PM
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I couldn't easily find plasti-gauge that met the specs. Also, We're talking about a stock crank, polished at a shop and bearings they supplied. Since I couldn't get the plasti-gauge, I figured with the polished crank and parts they supplied, it'd work fine.
From memory of past builds, I think it's too tight basically. I just don't have any history with the LSX as far as rebuilding goes. The cyls. have been honed and ring gaps are good. Lots of 30 weight is present like I mentioned before. I don't feel good continuing at this point w/o a closer look.
From memory of past builds, I think it's too tight basically. I just don't have any history with the LSX as far as rebuilding goes. The cyls. have been honed and ring gaps are good. Lots of 30 weight is present like I mentioned before. I don't feel good continuing at this point w/o a closer look.
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08-11-2008, 07:07 AM
#10
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08-11-2008, 07:16 AM
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Are they new rods? Did you measure the big end of the rod before putting it together. It definitely sounds like there is a clearance problem.
Heck, I can get a small block 350 with the heads and spark plugs to turn over with less torque than that while installing the crank bolt.
Heck, I can get a small block 350 with the heads and spark plugs to turn over with less torque than that while installing the crank bolt.
08-12-2008, 10:53 AM
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