Mark IXZD 150

iTrader: (1)

I NEED MORE POWER!!! <img border="0" title="" alt="[Razz]" src="gr_images/icons/tongue.gif" />

I know I have a lot of topic searches and reading to do but just looking for some pertinant information or suggestions for a streetable 427 from those who've gone this route. What do I need to know or decide and who's putting together the most reliable sleeved/stroked LS1 427ci for reasonable cost? I'll probably get a shortblock and transfer a lot of what I've got but I'm sure I'll need to confer with an expert to see what I can keep and re-use. Also looking for any tips on a cam choice. I have most drivetrain and exhaust upgrades already but I assume I should beef up my clutch and brakes and may eventually need a 12 bolt.

Thanks.

C_Williams

There really isn't anything reasonable about this mod, and you soon see once you start into it. I beleive it's really a good choice but be forwarned on the dollars.

Chicago Crew UnderBoss

iTrader: (1)

I am sure you don't want to go with the weight penalty but MTI is just about done finishing my 427 Ironblock LS1 Superstroker utilizing a 4.060 bore and 4.125 crank. Should be an AWESOME street motor because it will be a TORQUE MONSTER with the big crank.

I went with the ironblock b/c its more reliable and durable than resleeved alum block and about 2K cheaper. I should be close to 480rwhp and 500 rwtq thru my 4000 stall (YANK PT) A4 on my 98 vette Roadster. To get these big power numbers i am going with MTI best stage III race prepped LS6 heads and their most radical hyd cam (the S1), with specs of 244/244, .612 lift and 112lsa and of course will be using MTI custom 3 inch "catless" exhaust with electric cuts out going thru B&B Rt 66 exhaust. IRonblock 427 will be your Cheapest route and most durable regarding no issues of sleeves dropping but about 85 lbs heavier.

MTI will be done with my beast in about 2 weeks and no doubt i will post my dyno results so you can see what my combo makes. Also, call Jayson at MTI and get a quote from him if your interested in a similar motor. I also wanted to go with a top tuner like MTI bc of their unsurpassed 100% complete engine warrany of 2yr/24K miles for motor that don't see N20 or other F/I. My car will stay N/A as it is my goal to have a 10 sec N/A something streetable C5!

If $ is not a problem for you, you may as well go with the C5R block or Darton resleeved block offered by several tuners, using the classic C5R bore stroke ratio of 4.125 bore (if i'm not mistaken) matched with 4.0 crank=427cid!

Good luck and GO FOR IT as you only go around this life ONCE!

MTI 427 Roadster

<small>[ February 09, 2003, 05:47 PM: Message edited by: MTI 427 C5 Roadster ]</small>

Mark IXZD 150

iTrader: (1)

I'll have to make a few calls. MTI, ARE... Don't know yet which shop to use. Anyone else have any more info? How much $$ are we talking about?

BIGBOS

A GOOD AMOUNT...

Take a look on Speed Inc's web page or MTI's and look how much their motors cost...

And add a whole lot of "all said and done" cost to it....labor, etc..

theblur98ss

iTrader: (71)

Depending what route you go plan at the very least 10k. There's no cutting corners on a motor like this and it's easy to get upwards of 15k real easy.

Mark IXZD 150

iTrader: (1)

Those $ numbers are a possibility but I want to keep it on a strict budget. Maybe I'll drop by and visit Tom Izzo and have a chat to see what I need to do. I can do all the labor but need some technical expertise from people with big bore engine experience. I'd be willing to buy it through Speed Inc. as long as they'll take the time with me.

Anyone have anything to offer on clutches? Will the Z06 clutch upgrade suffice? I think my 10 bolt w/3.73:1 will hold up as long as I'm on street tires and don't do any 4K launches. Right?

BIGBOS

The Z06 clutch will not hold....

that 10 bolt will have its time coming, you will get sick of spinning everywhere after a while, you will want to put that power to use... <img border="0" title="" alt="[Smile]" src="gr_stretch.gif" />

Talk to speed inc...

I'm sure they will get you set with what you need.. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Smile]" src="gr_stretch.gif" />

Quickin

</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by Mark IXZD 150:
<strong> I'll have to make a few calls. MTI, ARE... Don't know yet which shop to use. Anyone else have any more info? How much $$ are we talking about? </strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">I can tell you a bit about my new ARE 436. See sig for everything that was done 3 weeks ago. It pulled 480 RWHP just before reaching 5,000 rpm when the fuel pressure was lost, the run was aborted. I still have the stock fuel pump in there, which is being changed next week hopefully. I'll get a full pull then. I have a 244/244 .610/.610 114 lsa and the motor idles so damn close to stock that it's VERY hard to tell anything has been done. The sound gives it away.
Another guy that has an ARE 436 (identical to mine) with a little smaller cam (240/240 I think) pulled 453 RWHP at the 5,000 rpm mark. I'm 27 RWHP ahead of him at 5,000, his total was 496 RWHP/505 RWTQ @ 6,300.
I'm assuming I'll be well over 500 RWHP. It's friggin Bad to the Bone, that's the only way to describe it. Torque from Hell.

<img border="0" alt="[cheers]" title="" src="graemlins/gr_cheers.gif" />

Mark IXZD 150

iTrader: (1)

</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by Quickin:
<strong> Torque from Hell.

<img border="0" alt="[cheers]" title="" src="graemlins/gr_cheers.gif" /> </strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Mmmmmmmm.... torque. <img border="0" alt="[evil]" title="" src="graemlins/gr_devil.gif" />

Mark IXZD 150

iTrader: (1)

Keeping the topic alive... TTT

Always looking for good info. <img border="0" alt="[cheers]" title="" src="graemlins/gr_cheers.gif" />

RED2K

This may sound stupid but why wouldn't you go a head and make a 434 if your going that big anyway?

Onyx LS1

iTrader: (5)

A 4.125" sleeve seems to be a good maximum size, any bigger than that and your pushing the limits on the size of the cylinder walls. And a 4" stroke is a good size also. You can go bigger but you need to draw the line somewhere with the LS1/6 block.

FastBlackTA

iTrader: (7)

I'm currently in the process of getting my rotating assembly to build a 427. Cartek is doing my machine work as we speak.....I'm going with a darton sleaved aluminum ls1 block, lunati crank, and je pistons. Once they balance it, I'm going to assemble it in my shop.

Even though I'm assembling and installing the motor, the price is still pretty hefty for me. I already have the necesary drivetrain mods (see sig)... I will prb go with some larger headers.

That said, the 427 will be a beast. I did a ton of research and looked into many different options, and this seemed the best way to go for me.

If you have any questions, feel free to PM me.

Conrad

smokin' joe 00 ss

What a great # 427 <img border="0" title="" alt="[Big Grin]" src="gr_grin.gif" /> if you do all of the assembly Mark you'll save some major $$ but your going to need all the mic's and bore gages to mic out bearing and bore clearances. As for the clutch you'll need some clamping force with that bad boy so why not get a Mcleod twin disc that will hold all that torque for sure and you can rebuild them if you ever need to, I've got one on order right now and I'll let ya know how the install goes. Good Luck <img border="0" alt="[cheers]" title="" src="graemlins/gr_cheers.gif" />

Mark IXZD 150

iTrader: (1)

Thanks for the info fellas!

From what I've gathered, the Darton sleeves seems to be the way to go. I'll probably buy a longblock and do the installation myself (with Andy's help of course). I'm trying to figure out a way to keep my engine too. I'd hate to have to give it away as a core. Maybe someday down the road I'd like to use it to build a pro-touring '67 Toronado (believe it or not) or a '63 Grand Sport Vette replica.

Will the SLP 1-7/8 LT headers be enough? I would think so.

Mark IXZD 150

iTrader: (1)

</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by Nasty N8:
<strong> SLP does not make 1 7/8 they are 1 3/4. We are going to test some custom 2" on our 427.

Nate </strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Oh, sorry, brain fart on my part. So will 1-3/4 work? I was hoping to re-use them if possible. I'm not a racer, this is for a street/show car.

Nate, did you get my email reply?

Fulton 1

iTrader: (9)

Mark,
I think its an awesome choice. If I had the $$ I'd be doing a Darton-sleeved 427 yesterday. There's just something about a 427 Camaro IMO <img border="0" title="" alt="[Big Grin]" src="gr_grin.gif" />

DONAIMIAN

iTrader: (18)

So are you gona do the big bore or big stroke 427. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Confused]" src="images/icons/confused.gif" />

Mark IXZD 150

iTrader: (1)

</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by stang killer:
<strong> So are you gona do the big bore or big stroke 427. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Confused]" src="images/icons/confused.gif" /> </strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">I think it's both. Isn't it considered a bored and sleeved aluminum block and is stroked, hence, big block cubic inches from a small block engine? Right?

I agree about the 427 vs. any other displacement. It just sounds so good.

<img border="0" alt="[worship]" title="" src="graemlins/gr_hail.gif" /> 427ci