HoLLo

iTrader: (17)

Everytime I start my car I have to turn the key back and forth like 6-10 times to prime the fuel pump to get my car to start quick, otherwise is just cranks for awhile. The pump is good and I dont suspect any cracked lines or anything, so I think the FPR is bad. My question is, will one of these "convert your stock to adjustable" regulators work? And what it seems like is that the FPR is sending gas back into my tank through the return line, and if so the "convert stock to adjustable" regulators would not help me at all would it?

I've got 2 sitting here at the house, an SLP and Metco regulator, but my hunch is that neither one will help my problem due to not replacing any internals of the regulator. Maybe its just a bad oring or something possible?

Old Geezer

iTrader: (3)

Could be the check valve in the pump.
Put a gauge on it, and see how fast the psi drops.
An adj reg would help, if the 1 on the car now is toast. The fact it would now be adjustable is moot, if the current reg is fubar.
Pull the vac line off, and see if the reg has fuel in it. If it holds the correct psi w/ the engine running, it's likely the check in the pump, [or the pump to hanger line], that's gone.

HoLLo

iTrader: (17)

Ok so if I hook up a FP gauge to it, how will i know whether or not the FPR is leaking down into the return line, or if the check valve is bad?

Also the car runs fine after it gets started.

Old Geezer

iTrader: (3)

Engine runs ok, once started. Check the Fp. Shut the car off. If psi drops fast, it's likely the check in the pump is open, or the rubber connector hose in the tank is leaky.
Turn the key to on, engine off. Does FP rise and stay, or drop fast?
If the reg was bad, the running FP would not be where it should be, and the engine would likely not run well, especially at higher rpms.

code4

iTrader: (30)

I am not familiar with the lt1 regualtors. On the ls1 the reg is in the tank, and I have never heard of one going bad. Not much to it, mostly just a restriction in flow.

I would suspect the pump.

HoLLo

iTrader: (17)

Ok, I won't be able to get a hold of a FP gauge until sometime next week, but next question: how hard is it to repair/install the check valve? and where exactly is it located?

code4

iTrader: (30)

the check valve he is refering to is in the fuel pump. It would require replacing the fuel pump.

HoLLo

iTrader: (17)

Ok i will reply again with fuel pressure results whenever I get a gauge.

zkeller

iTrader: (9)

I have the same issue with my Aeromotive regulator. I called Aeromotive and they said that they cannot build a check valve into the regulator. They bleed off past the return when the pump is not running. I verified this by using a shraeder valve test fitting on the input of the reg. I put the return side of the reg. in a dish of water and you can see bubbles. Does anyone know of an adjustable reg. that does not bleed off?

connexion2005

iTrader: (49)

You definitely need to get that gauge. Prime the system a few times and ensure that it reaches atleast 40-46 psi (stock lt1 system). After the let motor sit a bit and ensure that it does not bleed all the pressure off. From what I understand some (15psi is acceptable for say a 60 second period. If it is bleeding off to less than 25psi or so, leaving the fuel rails connected the fuel lines, undo the 4 bolts holding the rails to your intake (10mm) pull the rails and injectors out of the intake say 2 or 3 inches until you can see the bottom of the injector tip. Have a buddy turn the key on again priming the pump and watch all 8 injectors for any drips or leaks. This is very common in the Ltx cars with high mileage and age. If no leaks there but still a tremendous fuel bleed off it can very likely be the pressure regulator. Turn the car on at this monitor and monitor fuel pressure at idle. It needs to be around 42-46psi at idle on the stuck system. Now, with the engine idling, remove the vacuum line going from the intake to the FPR. With this off your fuel pressure should spike up around 5 psi idle and when you put it back on, it should return to normal idle pressure. If you see no difference with the vacuum hose off, then your FPR is shot. Be sure to smell the vacuum hose for any traces of fuel as well as there should be none. Removing that hose simulates a WOT instance from the motor as vacuum will decrease under WOT.

So get a gauge and be sure to finish out your thread and post up your results!

HoLLo

iTrader: (17)

To update on this: I still have not been able to get a gauge to hook up to it. But I did just order a new AC Delco fuel pressure regulator today. I figured even if it wasn't the FPR, it would be good to have for nitrous safety. And if the FPR doesn't work, it's gonna be the fuel pump, which I dread doing!

Bad Blu Formula

iTrader: (3)

I'm in the same predicament. After 143k miles what else can I expect than to replace the pump while I'm in there.