Pro Stock John

iTrader: (34)

How much have you guys paid to machine an LSX block for FI? Just looking for general numbers, so I can compare to a fully machined ERL block.

Classic

iTrader: (3)

Here is what my recent invoice looked like for my twin FI-66 build:

Bore and hone up to .120 over --- 325
Deck --- 150
Line hone main bores --- 125
fix back plug on LSX and countersink cam plate holes --- 75

Obviously most of the costs are similar to any other block prep (bore/hone/line hone/deck), but my block was an "old style" LSX block that required a little extra work to get setup. I believe the newer version addresses a couple of these issues. Also as Shawn points out below, my build did not use bushed lifter bores, orings, etc. Just a basic 6 bolt setup with standard studs.

Shawn @ VA Speed

iTrader: (3)

the cost would be based off of what you want done,bore size,oring or not,bushed lifter bores or not etc.

Pro Stock John

iTrader: (34)

Yup Shawn, wanted to see what folks have been paying and for what level of machining.

Phil99vette

iTrader: (11)

I paid $1000 for all my stuff @ the machine shop:
Bore/hone to our specs.
O-ring
Line hone
Install Cam bearings
Deck the block
Hot tank
Drill and tap for 1/2" && 3/8" head studs
Plugs for the oil galley
Balancing rotating assembly
Milling 5cc's off the pistons
Checking the clearances

CalSpeedPerformance

iTrader: (64)

What are they quoting you on a fully machined LS2 ERL block for reference?

Pro Stock John

iTrader: (34)

Thanks Classic, Phil.

I think the ERL block was $4500 I forget if that included the block charge if you didn't supply it. I'll call them again and ask.

Pro Stock John

iTrader: (34)

I don't think the $4500 included a block charge, so the LSX block + $1000 for machining is $3000 vs. $4500 or more for the ERL, but you save 80 lbs. Hmmm.

kp

iTrader: (34)

The ERL is a nice piece for sure, all depends how much that 80lbs means to you. Once you get to a certain point with a car and need to get lighter in the front 100lbs is easily worth a couple thousand dollars.

But with the LSx block if you dont bore it out to max there is a few rebuilds there, even if you gouge it up, not sure how far you can go on an ERL or if you can easily replace the sleeves if one gets torn up.. Not to mention the priority main oiling for the LSx is a plus..

Derek @ EDO

iTrader: (73)

Paid right at 1k with taxes.

Bore with TQ plates
Align hone
coated bearings
balance rotating assembly
deck
cleaning
Crank polishing

CalSpeedPerformance

iTrader: (64)

Actually the difference is more like 150 lbs.

Ive weighed an LS2 block vs a 6.0L iron block and there is almost a full 100lbs on my digital scale. The LSx block is ?50-60lbs? more than the 6.0L iron block.

SuperZ

iTrader: (2)

yeah my bud owns a machine shop and he said its a 80 pound gain from alum just up to a 6.0 iron block and the lsx is another 60 or so over the 6.0 iron block

Phil99vette

iTrader: (11)

I needed the extra weight of the LSx to keep the nose down on my car. The power it makes is just incredible, aluminum block in my car would be a wheelie machine.

Mr.MartyStone

iTrader: (12)

My ls2 block weighed in at 87 lbs. I've seen the LQ4 blocks are usually right at 180 lbs. If the LSX is 225, that's an easy 140 lbs or so...how much is that worth to you? I think it's definitely worth it, but I'm so greedy with weight I wouldn't know where to begin.

kp

iTrader: (34)

I think its well worth it for ERL to save 120+lbs, there is no way in hell I'd hang another 140lbs on the front of my car. But if you have an all out lightweight car and have to weigh 3400 anyhow I guess it doesnt matter as long as you can get close to 50/50 FR. Plenty of fast BBC cars out there and I'm pretty sure an aluminum headed BBC is heavier then an LSX setup.

Shawn @ VA Speed

iTrader: (3)

some things that alot of people dont consider-the alum block no matter how much it is beefed up will never be as strong as the iron block,you loose ring seal due to cyl bore distortion-meaning you are loosing hp,the other thing is deck distortion,sometimes the lost hp isnt worth the weight trade off,thats why they still run iron blocks in pro stock and nascar

Mr.MartyStone

iTrader: (12)

I'm seriously wondering about this question so please don't take this as a smartass comment. I'm not looking for 4k hp, but where would you honestly draw the line where the advantages don't outweigh the disadvantages? Is 1500hp still going to live in an aluminum block without significant bore distortion? Do the sleeves in the ERL block help with torsional rigidity or overall block strength? I know Turley ran 1400hp in his stock LS2 with a stock crank with minimal wear on the bearings after quite a few runs (maybe 200 if i'm not mistaken?).

Shawn @ VA Speed

iTrader: (3)

we have done back to back tests on iron vs alum bbc blocks,on identical 540cid bbc in the 800hp range the alum block was down 30hp and the blowby was greater.seeing how the ls block is lighter and significantly weaker than the big block+adding 20-30 lbs of boost i would think that there would be 100+ hp difference between the 2 at 1500+hp.This could be a major factor in a class that was limited by cid restrictions or turbo size restrictions.those same classes usually have to run pretty heavy so it may not be and advantage to have a lighter block.I'm not saying not to run an alum block-just trying to give all the info so somebody can make a completely informed decision for themselves-not only that,i have an alum block in my own car.

BlkHwk

iTrader: (8)

With the well known aftermarket sleeves (darton etc.) cylinder distortion isn't an issue. Not sure how their strength compares to the LSX but I would guess they're just as strong or stronger. Definately stronger than an OEM iron block.

Shawn @ VA Speed

iTrader: (3)

your guess would be wrong-i have actual test data from this-not a guess