355 (LE1 cam/LE2 heads) LT1 is complete. Final dyno numbers inside
08-16-2008, 03:47 PM
#1
355 (LE1 cam/LE2 heads) LT1 is complete. Final dyno numbers inside Finally have all the bugs worked out of my new LT1. As most of you already know, I was having valve train control issues since March that were driving me nuts. After lots of discussion with LE, we decided to pull the LE1.5 cam and replace it with the LE1 billet cam which would not be as hard on the valve train. The difference in cams was a slight reduction in lift and less aggressive lobes. The LE1.5 cam would have been a great strip cam, but I wanted something that would be more reliable for the street.
During the cam swap I also decided to replace my mid-tube headers with some LPP stepped LT headers as well. I also installed dual Pypes mini-cats to keep the funky smell under control for when the ragtop is down. Here are my new engine specs:
355 CI. LT1 built by Kennedyperformance.com
11.1 CR
Mahle forged pistons w/ 6" rods
Stock crankshaft
LE2 GM heads ported by Lloyd Elliot
LE1 billet camshaft
LT4 extreme duty timing set
Patriot extreme dual coil springs
1.6 Comp pro-mags
GM intake ported by Lloyd Elliot
30# SVO injectors
52mm throttle body
ASP UD pulley
AS&M cold air induction
LPP long tube stepped headers w/ dual Pypes mini cats
Borla cat-back
E-cutout (open)
Midwest Fabricated 9" rear w/ 3.89 gears
Detroit Trutrack
Strange Chromeoly drive shaft
Spec 3+ clutch
Tuned by Bluecat
Just got back from the Superflow dyno and made:
412 RWHP corrected
363 RWTQ corrected
There are absolutely no valve control issues in my current setup. All of the valve float and bounce has been completely eliminated plus I picked up 20 RWHP to boot. Engine is very powerful with no ill side effects. Might have to tweak the A/F which appears to have leaned out a bit maybe due to the catalytic converters.
Special thanks to Lloyd for helping me work the bugs out and putting together a powerful combination. His assistance and support have been absolutely second to none. He took care of me till the project was finished and running the way we both knew it would. Thanks also to the board for all the help and support. Going to head to the strip in the next month or so. Looking for high 11's or near 12 flat's.
For comparison purposes, I made 301 RWHP/326 RWTQ with stock short block, stock heads, all bolt-ons except EWP on the same dyno.
During the cam swap I also decided to replace my mid-tube headers with some LPP stepped LT headers as well. I also installed dual Pypes mini-cats to keep the funky smell under control for when the ragtop is down. Here are my new engine specs:
355 CI. LT1 built by Kennedyperformance.com
11.1 CR
Mahle forged pistons w/ 6" rods
Stock crankshaft
LE2 GM heads ported by Lloyd Elliot
LE1 billet camshaft
LT4 extreme duty timing set
Patriot extreme dual coil springs
1.6 Comp pro-mags
GM intake ported by Lloyd Elliot
30# SVO injectors
52mm throttle body
ASP UD pulley
AS&M cold air induction
LPP long tube stepped headers w/ dual Pypes mini cats
Borla cat-back
E-cutout (open)
Midwest Fabricated 9" rear w/ 3.89 gears
Detroit Trutrack
Strange Chromeoly drive shaft
Spec 3+ clutch
Tuned by Bluecat
Just got back from the Superflow dyno and made:
412 RWHP corrected
363 RWTQ corrected
There are absolutely no valve control issues in my current setup. All of the valve float and bounce has been completely eliminated plus I picked up 20 RWHP to boot. Engine is very powerful with no ill side effects. Might have to tweak the A/F which appears to have leaned out a bit maybe due to the catalytic converters.
Special thanks to Lloyd for helping me work the bugs out and putting together a powerful combination. His assistance and support have been absolutely second to none. He took care of me till the project was finished and running the way we both knew it would. Thanks also to the board for all the help and support. Going to head to the strip in the next month or so. Looking for high 11's or near 12 flat's.
For comparison purposes, I made 301 RWHP/326 RWTQ with stock short block, stock heads, all bolt-ons except EWP on the same dyno.
Last edited by wrd1972; 08-17-2008 at 07:02 PM.
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08-16-2008, 09:24 PM
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I am really glad you got that worked out! I am excited to get mine cranked in a couple of months ! I hope my LE2 setup works that well. Great work LLoyd!!!
08-16-2008, 11:27 PM
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That was a 228/235 .560/560 109 LSA cam using some of the new Bullet assymmetrical lobes. It is VERY drivable and makes some pretty good power also.
The seat to seat timing is not too high and don't let the "@ .050" duration #'s fool ya on how much low end it has. The mid range and top end power feels very good on this cam also.
Seems to have a VERY broad powerband in the cars it has been used in.
Lloyd
The seat to seat timing is not too high and don't let the "@ .050" duration #'s fool ya on how much low end it has. The mid range and top end power feels very good on this cam also.
Seems to have a VERY broad powerband in the cars it has been used in.
Lloyd
08-17-2008, 11:25 AM
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That was a 228/235 .560/560 109 LSA cam using some of the new Bullet assymmetrical lobes. It is VERY drivable and makes some pretty good power also.
The seat to seat timing is not too high and don't let the "@ .050" duration #'s fool ya on how much low end it has. The mid range and top end power feels very good on this cam also.
Seems to have a VERY broad powerband in the cars it has been used in.
Lloyd
The seat to seat timing is not too high and don't let the "@ .050" duration #'s fool ya on how much low end it has. The mid range and top end power feels very good on this cam also.
Seems to have a VERY broad powerband in the cars it has been used in.
Lloyd
How does that cam compare to your LE2.2 cam I got from you in terms of peak, midrange & low end torque & power?
08-17-2008, 12:45 PM
#17
Drivers side is rather easy. Passenger side #2 is the toughest but doable, still requires the alt. to be pulled. #4 can be had from the top. #6 & #8 are best from the bottom with the starter pulled.
Stubby spark plug socket helps a good bit. I can change them all out in maybe 45 minutes. Overall much better than my old mid tubes.
Stubby spark plug socket helps a good bit. I can change them all out in maybe 45 minutes. Overall much better than my old mid tubes.
