SVTJayhawk

Hey,

This weekend I am going to be picking up a bone stock 94 A4 Z28 with 100k on the ticker. It's overall a very clean car and even after going over the car with a buddy of mine that owns a speedshop we both agreed the car really looks like it has closer to half the mileage.

Anyways, I am selling an 03 Cobra swapped GT due to expense reasons and I found a great deal on the LT1 car. Coming from a car that ran high 11's and trapped low 120's this new car is going to feel dead nuts slow to me, but I plan to change a few things right off the bat. I won't have a ton to spend, but I'm thinking of something in the neighborhood of 1500-2000 dollars right away.

After doing some research I've decided on cam only, exhaust, stall, and suspension pieces. I plan on doing all the labor myself so I don't need to factor in any of the labor other than a couple hours where I'm going to have my local speedshop dial in the suspension. I just want something that is going to give me a very streetable car while shooting for around 340-350rwhp through a loose stall and a big tire.

Cam-wise I was thinking either a CC306 or a CC503 cam. I thought the 306 might be too big, though, for stock inch and stock heads, but on some of the videos I've seen it looks like other guys have done it. They both seem to have the same centerline too, which gives them both a really nice sound. I want a cam also, that's going to give me room to put a bigger head on later, but still perform well now. With that in mind, some LE heads and AFR 210's are available locally at a shop. What are the current market value for these heads. He wants 1300 dollars for the LE heads and 1500 dollars for the AFR's, it sounds expensive, but I really don't know what they are actually worth.

As for the exhaust, the car comes already with a Randomtech catback and I was going to do midlengths, but looking after looking at the FAQ it looks like the rule of thumb is "go LTs or go home". Pacesetters look to be the cheapest brand, but is there a more expensive brand that is better? Or are all LT's going to be the same?

I was also going to do a 3800 YANK stall since I figured it would work well with a bigger cam like the CC306 or the CC503, but I'm not sure if it would be very streetable. This is also my first auto car, so I don't know what a stalled auto drives like. Keep in mind as well that this car already has 3.73's.

As far as rear end components I was thinking BMR adjustable torque arm and lower control arms with relocation brackets for easy IC dial-in and launching characteristics. This is what another guy I know uses on his 'Bird and he cuts 1.6x's on MH Drag radials. Chime in if you think there's something I'm missing. I've heard panhard bars help, but I wasn't too sure.

I think this is all the questions I had. Thanks for any advice in advance.

Chris

porksoda

iTrader: (39)

Sounds like you have done some research and have it planned out perfect! Your plans sound within your budget and you should easily have a low 12 second car there with a good 60ft! Some have even hit 11's with it. Just don't forget to get a CAI also. Keep in mind the 10 bolt is not as strong as the 8.8 so be gentle with it and be careful with the sticky tires on.

The heads you mentioned sould like a good deal too! Those AFR's should be real nice as should the Lloyd Elliot heads assuming they really are from Lloyd. The LE heads could be his version 1, 2, or 3 so keep that in mind also.

transamws6_97

iTrader: (5)

well you have done your homework that is for sure....lontubes w/ either a true dual setup or a ory w/ a catback will be your two options exhaust wise. Pacesetters are a decent header but i got a pair w/ the coating and the coating has already gone to **** 6 months later. Jet hot supposedly has a better coating. Or if you wanna shell out the cash for Kooks which are stainless...oh and dont forget the LPP stainless headers and y pipe for 550 shipped.

Cam wise you'll see just as good results w/ the 305 as the 306 w/ stock heads. Now you mentioned wanting a cam that will allow you to throw some better heads on later then I would just go ahead with the 306 now so you don't have to fiddle with it later

For suspension you pretty much got it down. I would also throw in some subframe connectors. It wont help your launch but it will tighten the car up.

Puck

iTrader: (17)

If you plan on getting nicely ported heads in the future I would get a cam with less duration but more lift. You also don't say if you want nitrous or not, which would of course make a huge difference.

I would say to get a matched head and cam package from LE or AI and go from there, but that will stretch a budget build very quickly. To run 11's NA with an auto you do not need a huge cam but you DO need a nice stall and suspension work. With an LT1 your ET will be all in the 60', not the top end.

The little things add up like crazy, and unfortunatly 1500-2k wont get you very far with an LT1 compared to a supercharged engine. Once you get into the big mods though "all gloves are off" and the sky is the limit.

Like stated, it sounds like you did more research then most people who snag fbods.

Welcome to the club .

SVTJayhawk

Thanks for the responses guys. It looks like the 503 (with less duration/more lift) looks to be the winner as far as the cam is concerned. Something I failed to mention is that the car is lowered 2 inches front/back and I am going to need to adjust for IC due to that. Will the relocation brackets and adjustable torque arm be enough room to work around that?

ScreaminRedZ

iTrader: (3)

Welcome! It sounds like you have a solid plan. You're going to need more funds to complete your full bolt-on/cam/suspension/stall setup. I would probably start with some bolt-ons, tires and N2O. Then you can build up the other thinks as money allows.

SVTJayhawk

What would you be thinking is closer to a more realistic number as far as money? I'm selling my Cobra-GT for a substantial amount of cash, I just didn't want this car to turn into the exact same thing as my other car. A time/money pit.

MYLILSS

welcome to the dark side..lol.. i just came over here myself after having several mustangs.. it sounds like you definately have a good plan going, and the 503 is a very good choice camshaft, although my ss has the 306 ..

porksoda

iTrader: (39)

I'd say that really depends on what your end goals for the car are. If you will be happy with 12's than your budget will be fine. If 11's is what you want then heads you will probably need.

SVTJayhawk

Here's what I have and feel free to update the list with a better vendor that has better pricing/deals etc.

This is all from Texas Speed other than the LPP exhaust.

LPP LT's & Y-pipe - 550
UMI Tubular LCA's with spherical ends - 179.99
UMI Body Mount torque arm with LT clearancing - 389.99
UMI bolt-in LCA relocation brackets - 89.95

The exhaust is the most expensive of the group by far, but I've heard with the LT1's that they offer significant gains versus a 2v Mod motor or even a 4v Mod motor. The suspension is just something I wouldn't be comfortable buying second hand no matter what and this leaves me with I guess my final decision. It seems to me that I am not really going to fall within my budget restraints at this point.

The cam itself they offer for 233.99 but if I figure in things I should probably do at the same time anyways (rockers, pushrods, springs) I'm looking at closer to 700 dollars (mainly because of the rockers). What is absolutely necessary when going to a CC503 cam? Springs only? Pushrods+springs? If I didn't have to do the rockers with the cam install I wouldn't be beyond my budget, but the CCMagnum rockers are 280 bucks!

Another alternative I'm thinking of is running a nitrous kit instead. Used kits are dime a dozen locally, but I'm open to any and all suggestions of what I should do.

I8ASaleen

iTrader: (9)

Well, if you are going to do anything with the valvetrain you need to replace almost all of it. Cam, springs, rockers (get some with guideplates), hardened pushrods, etc...only because the stock valvetrain is pretty much maxed out from the getgo. LT's will make a great bit of difference on an LT1, and if you are gonna go that big on a cam you may want to invest in a 52mm throttle bottle along with the obligatory tune. You can buy the tuning software and an ALDL cable for somewhere in the neighborhood of $120-$200, and a used throttle body should be $150-$200.
To me it sounds like you would be better off buying a used N2O setup with all the goodies and the suspension and converter should net you what you're looking for. With that I'd buy a Walbro pump, and maybe even a good set of SVO injectors to be on the safe side for nitrous.

SVTJayhawk

Well I wasn't aware that the valvetrain was so restrictive and would cost so much so I guess that's going on the back burner until later this winter (which is fine).

So far I suppose then I have longtubes, suspension, and a stall which I hope will net me a 13.x @ 104-106 and then I'll have to decide later whether I juice the car or I go with the cam.

Thanks again for the helpful replies and I'll try to get pictures up ASAP.

I8ASaleen

iTrader: (9)

Yea, it is crap from the factory, and you'll be right about on the money with LT's, stall, and suspension.

SVTJayhawk

As far as my ET and trap speed guess? Or with my budget guess?

transamws6_97

iTrader: (5)

I'm right in that mph range and I have full exhaust and suspension....i would suggest getting weld in relocation brackets vs bolt in

550 for headers and ory
not sure which catback you want...lets say you get the rumbler which is 250...not a personal preference but if your on a budget

LCA 180
Relocation brackets 65
Torque Arm 390

Stall 725

which brings your total to 2160 which is just over your budget but will get you a pretty stout car...now if you plan on camming it in the future plan on doubling what you think itll cost because usually people leave out all the small stuff that adds up like gaskets, studs, etc

SVTJayhawk

Due to garage install constraints I don't have a MIG in my garage. If I did the bolt in relo's and then drove on it real easy to have a buddy weld it in would that work?

Also, what was your best recorded ET?

fergymoto

iTrader: (129)

If you want to go fast for relatively cheap pick up a nitrous kit and hit it with a 150 shot, get a stall, trans cooler, shift kit, deep pan, exhaust and some drag radials. Should be able to run 11s with those items. That's where I'd probably start if I had a stock car to begin with.

transamws6_97

iTrader: (5)

you dont even have to drive it real easy...some people run the bolt on's because they don't want to weld it to their car but weld in components will always be better than bolt in when it comes to suspension...some people even do the bolt ins and then weld them...i just dont see why you dont drive it to your buddy's place and then have him just weld it up..save you the 25 bucks over the bolt ins...just a suggestion and my best ET was 13.9 but having street tires and 4.10s = no traction at launch im talking a 2.4 60'...If I borrowed some drag radials I could easily get 2.0 60' if not better and that would drop me to low 13.3ish

I8ASaleen

iTrader: (9)

Both, prolly low 13's with those mods.

Puck

iTrader: (17)

You should easily be very low 13's or high 12's with that depending on your tracks DA, assuming you can hook.