lt1z28camaro

iTrader: (2)

This comes to a total of over $3,800..i could basically buy a new motor for that. What can i take out of this equation that i don't need for a cam/port head swap?

200cc Dominator LT1 CNC Head & Cam Package
CNC'ed Intake Port,Exhaust Port,& Chamber
CNC'ed F1 Quality Competition Valve Job (<3 microns TIR)
Machine Intake/Exhaust Flanges & Valve Cover Rails To Ensure Proper Port Alignment & Sealing
Machine Guides For Any Future Spring Upgrades
Deck is PCD Milled For Superior Surface Finish, Flatness, and Desired Chamber Volume (52cc - 56cc)
Completely Hand De-burred To Remove All Sharp Edges
Hydrostatically Pressure Tested & Hardness Checked to Ensure the Casting's Integrity
Custom Manley Pro-Flo Severe Duty Stainless Valves 2.00 Int/1.56Exh w/Hi-Performance Metal Clad
Viton Valve Seals
Pacaloy 1220 Beehive Spring w/Custom Hardened & Machined 10deg Steel Components (Not Inferior
Stamped Parts)
Custom Induction Hardened 8620 Billet Core Hyd Roller Camshaft w/Premium Everwear Gear Compatible
w/all Type Oil Pump Gears $1975

Basic Inlet Street/Strip LTx Intake Manifold Porting $175.00
1 Holley 58mm Throttle Body $397.00
1 TFS-89036 36# Fuel Injector Set (Stainless Body & Flow/Impedence Verified @ 1.5% or less) $350.00

Ai HIGH PERFORMANCE HYDRAULIC ROLLER KIT
CC1305 Pro-Magnum Rocker Arm 1.6 Ratio
ARP 234-7202 7/16" ProSeries Rocker Studs
GMPP 12371042 Hi-Performance HydRoller Lifter Kit
Custom LT1 Guideplates Hardened 4130 ChromMoly
CVP .080 Wall Thk 4130 ChromMoly Hardened Pushrods 5/16" x 7.xxx
CC7202 Hi-Tech Pushrod Length Checking Tool $725.00

Ai GASKET & HEAD BOLT KIT:
GM-12553160 LT1 Head Gasket .029 Thk x 4.100 Bore
FelPro-1284 Intake Manifold Gasket w/RTV
FelPro-45956 Timing Cover/Water Pump Gasket Set
ARP 134-3601 High Performance Cylinder Head Bolt Kit $200.00

Ray@Nitrous Outlet

Thats a nice list of parts and all will be needed for the best results.....unless you all ready have the parts listed

lt1z28camaro

iTrader: (2)

Damn, i guess i've got alot more saving up to do than i originally thought.

AChotrod

iTrader: (17)

you dont have to buy it all at once. I would start with the H/C package then start buying the rest one by one untill you have it all, then put it together.

BizZzatch350

iTrader: (33)

Nothing, you need those parts. Try to find the TB on your own, as well as the injectors.

96capricemgr

iTrader: (1)

As said that is just what it costs to do a complete swap unless you start with some of the smaller stuff along the way first.
Lots of guys do the injectors and TB first, a lot even do the rockers and guideplates first maybe with some cheap LT4 springs.

That is a nice price for a 1.5% matched injectors set.

Just looks like a big bill because it is all at once and all at one place.

Fixxer99TA

iTrader: (5)

Definitely, especially if you cant afford it all at once.

That really is EVERYTHING, and would be a good setup if you can get it. Good setups = $$$.... AI ports one hell of a set of heads, but your going to have to pay for that quality.

BizZzatch350

iTrader: (33)

Its just kinda funny how much supporting mods cost, some times they cost more in total then the parts you were looking to do in the first place. I have learned that about Nitrous, the kit was the cheap part lol

Jditlfm

iTrader: (26)

Thats because AI does it right. They dont half *** it. Some one sig says it Half *** is Half fast.

StealthFormula

iTrader: (35)

You can get many of those parts for cheaper if you look around online and on ebay so thats one way to save. I bought those Rockers off ebay for $250, I got 30lb. SVO's brand new for $215, head gaskets for $30 etc. etc. The parts they want you to get are good stuff and you should have them all but you can get them for cheaper. BTW go onto Amazon.com and you can get that Holley for $325 instead of $400 like I did.

IronOutlaw

iTrader: (4)

Id just use their porting and get teh cam and then buy all the other stuff used or from cheaper sources.

96capricemgr

iTrader: (1)

Not going to find things a lot cheaper, then figure additional shipping and handling from multiple sources, then figure your time. You could maybe save a little but not a lot.
Some of you need to understand that 1.5% matched injectors is a pricey option,$350 is as good a price as you will find, well Summit has them for $349.95. Summit owns trickflow.

aboatguy

Do you already have:

long tube headers and a good exhaust
decent rear end/gears
stall converter if you have an auto

If you don't you need to start saving for those too!


As others have said its the supporting mods that add up to more than you expect.

Oh I forgot one what type of fuel pump do you have?

My stock pump couldn't keep up and I needed to upgrade it. (went with the Racetronix kit)

Mike

James Montigny

iTrader: (13)

Click my sig and hit page 4 for the shopping list (and vendor list) I used for my H/C
You can use that for reference to shop around for supporting components.
I'm not sure you'll save much though, those prices seem pretty reasonable.

You could probably save money by buying a few items used, but then you have to be
sure you are buying reliable used parts from sellers with a good reputation.
<---- (Check Trader rating on the left, and read feedback)

You could probably get away with skipping the TB and manifold porting.
You'll lose a little power up front, but you can always add those parts later without
taking too much of the car apart.

Skimping on any of the other stuff will just create a whole lot for work later.

Oh, and don't forget you'll need to add a tune to your list.
At the very least a custom mailorder tune $200-350; or a dyno tune ($400-650)

Who's going to install this for you?
Count on $500-900 if you find someone to do it in their spare time.
$1500-2500 to have it done at a shop.

If you can handle it youself, you'll just need a swear jar, some bandaids and something to throw tools at.

James Montigny

iTrader: (13)

Good things to do, especially the headers since the heads will be off anyhow.
I ran mine with mids at first and I wish I had gone LT.
I went back and did it right a month or so later.

The stall (or clutch) and rear end can always come later.

Stock pump should be just fine for N/A.
You'll need a bigger one if you want to run a big N20 shot later though.

slick1851

Yeah id get the heads from them along with the cam


And buy everything else through a cheaper vender

TwoFast4Lv

iTrader: (8)

A stock pump will be stressing.

DO it once and do it right

lt1z28camaro

iTrader: (2)

I have mid's that i just put on (regret not going with LT's definately) going into loudmouths. As for gears (i have m6) I plan on waiting to i **** out the ones in the stock 10 bolt before putting any money into it, once that happens i'll put 4.10's in a 9". Cars are too damn expensive, but what was said above makes sense..."half ***, half fast"

slagger

iTrader: (1)

[QUOTE=lt1z28camaro;9966896]I have mid's that i just put on (regret not going with LT's definately)

what mids you get?

lt1z28camaro

iTrader: (2)

they're mac mid's coated..