Problem with power windows
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Problem with power windows
Not sure what the problem is but I just finished putting a car together that I never drove before. The problem is I rolled the drivers side window I rolled it down and it started to roll up then stopped. The pass side I rolled it down, but would only work from the pass window button, now the window won't go up. If I wait awhile the drivers goes up. I hear a black box almost like a relay mounted on the firewall behind the heater ducts click when they don't work.
Not sure if the box is a relay and it is junk, but the windows are fast so I don't think the motors are bad.
By the way this is a 98 trans am. Thanks for any help
Not sure if the box is a relay and it is junk, but the windows are fast so I don't think the motors are bad.
By the way this is a 98 trans am. Thanks for any help
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driverside window motor is shot and it sounds like your switch is bad on the masterswitch for just the passenger side window. like the actual button to make the passenger side window go up and down is bad. That black box is more than likely your BCM bodytrain control module if it is near the heater core behind the glove box i cant explain why it's clicking. you really need to be check ing power after the switches on the upside to make sure you are getting power for the motor on the up tilt and it just isnt a bad switch. find out some more info and pm me or pm me your # and I'll reach out to you. Scott
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The clicking is normal and is the express down module for the drivers side window. All is well with that. You normally can't hear it over the noise of the window. When the motor is on the fritz, you will hear the click of the relay.
Sounds like the motors are bad. You can jump the switches and apply current directly to the motors to confirm. There are internal auto-off circuits in the motors that can go bad, so motor speed is not an indicator of how good/bad the motor package is. So, if you want to test the motor, you need to do it with the motor in the door with load(regulator and glass) on the motor. (If you take a bad motor out of the door and test it, it may falsely test like its good.)
Sounds like the motors are bad. You can jump the switches and apply current directly to the motors to confirm. There are internal auto-off circuits in the motors that can go bad, so motor speed is not an indicator of how good/bad the motor package is. So, if you want to test the motor, you need to do it with the motor in the door with load(regulator and glass) on the motor. (If you take a bad motor out of the door and test it, it may falsely test like its good.)