hazy paint
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hazy paint
I recently bought an SS spoiler and had it painted black......IT look AWESOME but over time ive noticed that it has developed a "haze" on it......anyone know how to get rid of it?
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How many coats of clear did they add? Hopefully its not thinning out. Hence buffing it would cause more problems. If they put a good two coats then you can try buffing, if you are not sure i would have them respray, or have them look at it.
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I dont know how many coats he did........I had it painted out of town...IT looks damn good when u wax it but once the wax starts to wear off it gets this almost blue looking haze.
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email me a good pic, i can prolly tell you what is going on,, i hightly doubt it is not enough clear, it's not that easy, and anybody in their right mind would not stop at one coat.
email is mopar978@yahoo.com
email is mopar978@yahoo.com
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email me a good pic, i can prolly tell you what is going on,, i hightly doubt it is not enough clear, it's not that easy, and anybody in their right mind would not stop at one coat.
email is mopar978@yahoo.com
email is mopar978@yahoo.com
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O i will say this tho......it looked BEAUTIFUL when i picked it up and installed it...drove it around town for a bit and loved it....then i drove home about an hour or so worth of highway driving in some 95+ degree heat.....and for the next week or so (because of the some repairs to our garage) the car had to stay out in the sun.....it was prolly after that i kinda noticed a haze but i figured it was just dirty.
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your in nothern TX correct? did it by chance get below around 50-55 degrees within the first few nights of it being painted? sometimes, depending on the materials used, the time given to flash between coats and the final cure time, paint can be put into a state of "shock" if it is exposed to quick temp. change. it sometimes peals, or "hazes" over.
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your in nothern TX correct? did it by chance get below around 50-55 degrees within the first few nights of it being painted? sometimes, depending on the materials used, the time given to flash between coats and the final cure time, paint can be put into a state of "shock" if it is exposed to quick temp. change. it sometimes peals, or "hazes" over.
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What color was is prior to being painted black? I'm wondering if the original color or what ever color it was before is trying to come back. That would happen if the painter didn't seal it. I don't recall if it would cause a 'haze' as you describe though...something to think about.
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What color was is prior to being painted black? I'm wondering if the original color or what ever color it was before is trying to come back. That would happen if the painter didn't seal it. I don't recall if it would cause a 'haze' as you describe though...something to think about.
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He should have just primed or sealed the whole thing instead of just painting over the old paint. That way the old color has nothing to do with it. What you should do is take it to them, pay them a few bucks to sand it with some 2000 grit wet paper and buff it. The reason it looks good w/ wax is because you are just hiding the imperfections for a short time. For it to look right, it needs to be wet sanded, then buffed in a 3 step process- compund, glaze, then swirl remover.
If they did it, hold them responsible. that way if they 'burn' thru the paint when they go to buff it, they'll repaint it. If you screw it up, they are gonna give you the 'user error' deal.
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ok,, take a closer look at the part, if you stand from a distance you are seeing a haze, but when you look closer are there a bunch of pinhead sized spots, if so it could be solvent popping, that is when solvents are escaping from the underlying coats, and trying to get to the surface.
If that is the case the part will need to be re-painted, i can't imagine that he will gripe to much it is a small part, and many times with the chemicals in paint you are just better re-doing the part than trying to figure it out.. I don't know of any painter that doesn't have a problem from time to time..
If that is the case the part will need to be re-painted, i can't imagine that he will gripe to much it is a small part, and many times with the chemicals in paint you are just better re-doing the part than trying to figure it out.. I don't know of any painter that doesn't have a problem from time to time..
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He should have just primed or sealed the whole thing instead of just painting over the old paint. That way the old color has nothing to do with it. What you should do is take it to them, pay them a few bucks to sand it with some 2000 grit wet paper and buff it. The reason it looks good w/ wax is because you are just hiding the imperfections for a short time. For it to look right, it needs to be wet sanded, then buffed in a 3 step process- compund, glaze, then swirl remover.
If they did it, hold them responsible. that way if they 'burn' thru the paint when they go to buff it, they'll repaint it. If you screw it up, they are gonna give you the 'user error' deal.
If they did it, hold them responsible. that way if they 'burn' thru the paint when they go to buff it, they'll repaint it. If you screw it up, they are gonna give you the 'user error' deal.
ok,, take a closer look at the part, if you stand from a distance you are seeing a haze, but when you look closer are there a bunch of pinhead sized spots, if so it could be solvent popping, that is when solvents are escaping from the underlying coats, and trying to get to the surface.
If that is the case the part will need to be re-painted, i can't imagine that he will gripe to much it is a small part, and many times with the chemicals in paint you are just better re-doing the part than trying to figure it out.. I don't know of any painter that doesn't have a problem from time to time..
If that is the case the part will need to be re-painted, i can't imagine that he will gripe to much it is a small part, and many times with the chemicals in paint you are just better re-doing the part than trying to figure it out.. I don't know of any painter that doesn't have a problem from time to time..