NXSLT1

Finally got the TA and mounts done, it turned out pretty good. Gotta get a driveshaft and then I can nhit the track and get numbers on the roots blower setup. Been sidetracked by another project for a few months but I'm back on it now. Here's some pics of the TA.

Fixxer99TA

iTrader: (5)

Did you fab all of that up yourself? Looks good!

TwoFast4Lv

iTrader: (8)

Looks great! I would tie into the housing with re enforced tabs. Those bolts might not take the full load on a hard hole shot or heavy braking.

Good looking setup!

Stupid Boost

iTrader: (1)

No trying to be a smartass,you done a great job,but i promise if the car has any power you will bend the bracket bolted to the chunk.

SS RRR

iTrader: (2)

What size tubing did you use? Pics are deceiving, but the tubing looks fairly stout?

FASTFATBOY

iTrader: (23)

Those mounting tabs aint gonna cut it, Have you seen the mounting bracket for a 9 inch mounted torque arm?

Paul Bell

iTrader: (9)

Yeah, if you're making enough power to need a nine inch rear, those mounting tabs are your new weakest link. Did you go through all this because you already had a non-F body nine inch housing?

It does look nice tho...

NXSLT1

Gotta love keyboard engineers. Twofast4luv is the only one that got it right, the bolts on the housing is the only weak point but I don't think it will be a problem. That was my only concern when building this and I might reinforce the back of them with a plate welded to the rear and then bolt the mounts to that plate. As far as the mounts themselves breaking, aint gonna happen. They are at least twice as thick (1/4" plate) as any of the factory mounts. Those mounts aren't the only points that the rear end will push/pull against so it's not like they are taking the full brunt of it. If you look closely at the way the mounts are made they don't really have alot of leverage against the bolts. I'm not running a top fuel dragster here. If it does cause a problem it's as easy as doing what I said earlier.

I made the TA out of 1.25" OD .120 wall DOM steel, same thing the aftermarket TA's are made of.

I built this to get rid of the z bars I fabbed up for it a few years ago, didn't like the rear end bouncing up and down like it did with those.

Paul Bell

iTrader: (9)

Those brackets would be way stronger if the mounting holes to the rear were in line with the bolts to the rod ends. As it is, the plates will try to pry up using the bolts to the rear as a fulcrum. You're improperly loading those bolts offset to one side of them. No keyboard engineer here, I've done similar things for many years and I know what the result can be. This is basic structural engineering.

You're working on getting a blower on this car? You shouldn't use this rear setup with anything stronger than a stock engine.

Dude, if you stomp on this and it lets go, it’s your life-and anybody else in the car with you or any other car/person you might hit.

Did you do this because you had a non-F body rear? By the time you did all this work, you could’ve got a proper nine inch housing and a aftermarket TA with a chassis mount to get it off the trans which would’ve been the best setup for your blown car. If you’re gonna do something, do it right and safely.

daniel6718

iTrader: (36)

those bolts will rip out of the housing i gaurantee if it it hooks at all..
also it looks like its goana be relaly close to the driveshaft....

NXSLT1

Thanks for the "engineering" input but this aint my first rodeo either. As I stated I knew this MIGHT be a problem when I built it but I don't think it will be. If need be I will add to it as I stated. And thanks but I know how fulcrums work too.

What exactly is a "proper" 9" housing anyway?? You mean a store bought one? You aint one of those that just buys bolt on stuff are you? If you don't like it go build yers the way you want it, ok?

By the way, most people told me I couldn't get a roots blower under the stock hood and cowl either, but as you can see there is a roots sitting under my hood, I don't listen to well.

TwoFast4Lv

iTrader: (8)

sounds like you do not need help you will just need a tow truck

I have bent enough TQ arms to know if you do not get that mounted to the main case you will be fucked plane and simple. Standard 9in use 3/4 in bolts to mount to the housing for a reason. Your brackets are strong enough but those bolts are not.

Sounds like you got it all covered man it is the rest of us who have been there and done that are smoking crack.


Basicly for everyone else it comes down to this. ive him prop's or do not post at all

Fbody4Ever

iTrader: (15)

subscribing for pics of broken stuff! Be sure to post them up!

the_merv

iTrader: (88)

A majority of everyone here buys bolt-on stuff..with this situation personally I would buy the bolt-on stuff, home-made here ain't going to cut it unless you put in a 4-link bro.
Granted you could still make it home-made, but you've got/will have some more work to do.
And yes, in this case I would call the store bought one the "proper" setup, my Moser is rated for and beyond what I'm throwing at it. It's not a matter of building it the way I like it.. I know without a doubt mine will work.
Moser designed it that way for a reason..it works.

And as far as my "Engineering".. refer to sig.

I give props for the ingenuity..I have built/wired plenty of stuff myself as well.
I do see future problems with this though..expecially with the placement of the Mounting Point with respect to where the Bolts are.
Under acceleration, one is going to be pushing, the other pulling so to speak. When in reverse, it's going to be the opposite. That little bit over time will cause a weakpoint, and then snap.

Here is what everyone else is talking about.. this one is a Moser setup..it currently sits under my Car.
I'll post yours first to compare..

NXSLT1

I don't recall asking for any advice but you and the rest of the "experts" in here do yer usual thing of thinking you know it all and yer way is the only way so I'll just quit building anything til I come talk to yall first. I've seen you and many others do it to many people and that's the main reason I don't come to this board much anymore, egos mean nothing to me. Get over yerself.

If you can read, as I said, when I built this I knew this MIGHT be a problem but I don't think it will be and if it is I know exactly how to take care of it. Go build it yer way if you don't like it but I've managed without yall for several years and will continue to do so.

the_merv

iTrader: (88)

If you don't want advice,.. then don't post up pics in an open-discussion Forum.
I did build mine the right way.. I called Moser for a little advice..

We're here telling you that you may have catastrophic falure and possible injury with the interest of the safety of you/possible others, and you want to be ignorant about it.

I got one for ya then..fits quite well..

SoxXpupPeT

iTrader: (34)

thats great!

NXSLT1

Again, I don't recall asking for advice. I posted pics of my build but you and others wanna give me yer "expert" opinion on it as you do with everything else. I don't care if you bought yers from moser or the pope or whoever. I build most of my stuff not buy it off a shelf. The rear end, which I built myself, has been in the car for 4 years and is still running strong. Wait, that can't be because it's home made, what was I thinking?? The z bar setup, which I built myself, was holding up just fine. That can't be, it's home made too. The roots setup under the hood, which I built everything from scratch and running on a bone stock LT1, has been there for about 2 years and is running fine. Wait that can't be right, it's also home made. The exhaust, which goes over the axle and all the way out the back, which I built, is doing just fine too. Wait, that can't be right cause it's home made too. No, I'm not tooting my own horn, as I said egos mean nothing to me. What I am saying is I've done just a lil bit of building myself on alot more than just this car so I think I know what I'm doing.

If you would read my second post I said I already knew the bolts in the housing were the weak link and was probably gonna add another plate behind it. What is so hard to understand about that?? I even told my father last week that since I couldn't get the centerline of the rods on center with the housing bolts that I was probably gonna have to add bracing to back of the mounts. Instead, you and others wanna run yer mouth saying "oh that'll never work, those brackets will break off the first time you hit the gas, I'd go spend thousands of dollars on the "proper" 9". If I need yer expert opinion I'll ask for it. As I said get over yerself ok.

the_merv

iTrader: (88)

We're here telling you that your idea may fail and lead to injury..you're stuck on this high-horse of "I built it so it will work.."
Not everything works..hence the term Trial & Error. The possibility with error in this case may lead to someone getting fucked up.

I built and wired in my LSX Stroker..any my exhaust as well..lots of people here have fabricated their own ideas..doesn't mean **** when it fails and something serious happens.

Here is sone real good ADVICE for ya..
1. Pull head out of ***.
2. If you don't want advice, don't put this on a forum where people are definatley going to chime in.
3. Get the idea out of your head that no one will give their opinion when you do post something.

That's why I posted my natural selection poster..you fit that one well.

FASTFATBOY

iTrader: (23)

Hey dude, whats up with the attitude, all these guys are trying to do is SAVE YOU money in the long run.

FIRST off you never said you had a Z bar setup in the car, technically you WASTED a bunch of time AND money making this setup if you have Z bars in the car. The Z bars handle the load, the torque arm really doesnt do much if the Z bars are built correctly and are doing their job.

Most guys with the real STOREBOUGHT Z bars leave the stock torque arm in the car but not hooked up in the front.

Ed Wrights setup is like this and his car does pretty well.

But hell what do I know