What's wrong with my NEW sub?
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What's wrong with my NEW sub?
For starters, I built a "stealth" box for a 10" Kicker CVR @ 4 ohms. It turns out the box was too small and I fried 3 subs in less than a year.
So I decided to upgrade the sub to a 10" Kicker CVX @ 4 ohms and had a ported box built that sits on top of the shelf in the trunk.
Well today I installed it and I can only turn the volume up about half way before I get this horrible rattle from the sub.
I played with the amp and turned the settings down, etc. I know a ported box has to be tuned differently than a sealed box, but it's NO WHERE near as loud as the small sealed box and I get that rattle noise.
Only thing I can think of is that I didn't "blurp" the speaker before installing, but I don't think that will fix anything... Any clues?
Oh and I'm running a JL Audio 250.1 amp.... not the slash series.
So I decided to upgrade the sub to a 10" Kicker CVX @ 4 ohms and had a ported box built that sits on top of the shelf in the trunk.
Well today I installed it and I can only turn the volume up about half way before I get this horrible rattle from the sub.
I played with the amp and turned the settings down, etc. I know a ported box has to be tuned differently than a sealed box, but it's NO WHERE near as loud as the small sealed box and I get that rattle noise.
Only thing I can think of is that I didn't "blurp" the speaker before installing, but I don't think that will fix anything... Any clues?
Oh and I'm running a JL Audio 250.1 amp.... not the slash series.
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Really? No one can figure anything out?
Here's more information concerning box...
I did the math and the box is .25 ft^3 larger than the maximum vented enclosure for the sub and the port is half as large as it should be.
My thinking is that I could make a brick of wood that would be the same as .25 ft^3 to fasten inside and then open up the port some more. Would that method work and can it make THAT big of a difference? I would hate to do the work for little to no outcome.
Again I was running the amp at 2 ohms (4 ohm DVC wired parallel) and the sub was what sounded like bottoming out at a very low volume. I changed the sub to run at 8 ohms by wiring it in a series and the noise went away, BUT obviously the travel of a sub at 8 ohms is very weak... the system sounds decent at best inside the car and barely noticable outside the car.
Here's more information concerning box...
I did the math and the box is .25 ft^3 larger than the maximum vented enclosure for the sub and the port is half as large as it should be.
My thinking is that I could make a brick of wood that would be the same as .25 ft^3 to fasten inside and then open up the port some more. Would that method work and can it make THAT big of a difference? I would hate to do the work for little to no outcome.
Again I was running the amp at 2 ohms (4 ohm DVC wired parallel) and the sub was what sounded like bottoming out at a very low volume. I changed the sub to run at 8 ohms by wiring it in a series and the noise went away, BUT obviously the travel of a sub at 8 ohms is very weak... the system sounds decent at best inside the car and barely noticable outside the car.