Late minute questions on 408 and aps kit pre install?
09-05-2008, 10:35 AM
#1
Late minute questions on 408 and aps kit pre install? Ok finally it looks like my new 408 is done and should have it here next week or so.
Its a iron block 408 from Canadian Performance with callies compstar crank,compstar rods, widesco 9.5 to one custom pistons. Hellfire rings and tapered wall pins. I am using stuff in my sig for cam, heads,intake,etc.
Few questions..the block is going to be missing a hole for alternator? So just drill and tap it? Anyone know size and what tap to use? Assume easier to tap it when engine is out of the car.
Will there be any problem with the oil pan going on with the compstar rods or crank?
My current ls1 stuff is going to just bolt on the 6.0 right? Knock sensors, all the rest?
I will be adding some arp head studs and using think mls ls7 gaskets pretty sure heard they work ok with the afr heads. Thinking melling 296 pump
lower pressure spring and maybe ls2 timing chain.Is there a double roller chain that will work with the 296 with no modding..someone said jp something would??
Do I have to do get anything on the back of the compstar crank to mount up to my m6. just put in new pilot bushing and would be good to go?
I will go auto likely next year .See how my trans and tex twin hold up. Going to keep the boost lower for now.
Thinking will drop engine out the bottom since have cherry pickers but no hoist but seen some posts and pics of guys doing it that way. less risk of scratching up my mint car.
Will I guess bolt on the aps turbos and put engine on the bmr crossmember on the ground and then drop car ontop of it. Or will it work that way? Was almost thinking install engine and then run it for a bit then install aps but seems to be extra work. Some guys say about not breaking in engine with new turbos but factory does this obviously with no ill effects and many here have done the same thing. I will be changning out oil frequently of course.
Like three times within 1500 miles or so.
Will likely be ordering the new ducts from aps and possibly their fuel system at same time. At least that way won't have to pay extra shipping on the new ducts. Not sure what to do on sway bar thats not high priority right now. Spacers or links whatever figure something out. Trying to keep my hotchkis sway bar but will go to stock sway if have to. Running no front sway would be last choice.
I will be rereading thru all the old threads on this subject on the forum.
Was thinking to wait for spring but now am so hyper after all this waiting that figure will do this now. There are still a few months of season left here,car goes away by nov 1 though. There is not likely going to be any dynoing this year or track runs. Need to get new rear end going s60 just trying to decide 3.54 or 3.73 gears.3.73 nice off boost around town.
3.54 nice all around gear and maybe work better it go 480le next year.
So feel free to post all the tips and tricks you guys can give me.
Its a iron block 408 from Canadian Performance with callies compstar crank,compstar rods, widesco 9.5 to one custom pistons. Hellfire rings and tapered wall pins. I am using stuff in my sig for cam, heads,intake,etc.
Few questions..the block is going to be missing a hole for alternator? So just drill and tap it? Anyone know size and what tap to use? Assume easier to tap it when engine is out of the car.
Will there be any problem with the oil pan going on with the compstar rods or crank?
My current ls1 stuff is going to just bolt on the 6.0 right? Knock sensors, all the rest?
I will be adding some arp head studs and using think mls ls7 gaskets pretty sure heard they work ok with the afr heads. Thinking melling 296 pump
lower pressure spring and maybe ls2 timing chain.Is there a double roller chain that will work with the 296 with no modding..someone said jp something would??
Do I have to do get anything on the back of the compstar crank to mount up to my m6. just put in new pilot bushing and would be good to go?
I will go auto likely next year .See how my trans and tex twin hold up. Going to keep the boost lower for now.
Thinking will drop engine out the bottom since have cherry pickers but no hoist but seen some posts and pics of guys doing it that way. less risk of scratching up my mint car.
Will I guess bolt on the aps turbos and put engine on the bmr crossmember on the ground and then drop car ontop of it. Or will it work that way? Was almost thinking install engine and then run it for a bit then install aps but seems to be extra work. Some guys say about not breaking in engine with new turbos but factory does this obviously with no ill effects and many here have done the same thing. I will be changning out oil frequently of course.
Like three times within 1500 miles or so.
Will likely be ordering the new ducts from aps and possibly their fuel system at same time. At least that way won't have to pay extra shipping on the new ducts. Not sure what to do on sway bar thats not high priority right now. Spacers or links whatever figure something out. Trying to keep my hotchkis sway bar but will go to stock sway if have to. Running no front sway would be last choice.
I will be rereading thru all the old threads on this subject on the forum.
Was thinking to wait for spring but now am so hyper after all this waiting that figure will do this now. There are still a few months of season left here,car goes away by nov 1 though. There is not likely going to be any dynoing this year or track runs. Need to get new rear end going s60 just trying to decide 3.54 or 3.73 gears.3.73 nice off boost around town.
3.54 nice all around gear and maybe work better it go 480le next year.
So feel free to post all the tips and tricks you guys can give me.
09-05-2008, 11:38 PM
#3
Staging Lane
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: Charlotte, NC
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Ok finally it looks like my new 408 is done and should have it here next week or so.
Its a iron block 408 from Canadian Performance with callies compstar crank,compstar rods, widesco 9.5 to one custom pistons. Hellfire rings and tapered wall pins. I am using stuff in my sig for cam, heads,intake,etc.
Few questions..the block is going to be missing a hole for alternator? So just drill and tap it? Anyone know size and what tap to use? Assume easier to tap it when engine is out of the car.
Yes it will only have 2 holes to mount to. there is nothing but open air there. I am not quite sure where you are gonna tap into
Will there be any problem with the oil pan going on with the compstar rods or crank?
I have a Callies dragonslayer crank, and SCAT Hbeam rods...no problems clearing
My current ls1 stuff is going to just bolt on the 6.0 right? Knock sensors, all the rest?
yes, besides the alternator you are pretty well good, however, stuff like knock sensors, depending on the age of your motor, i would invest in some new ones, also get an adjustable master cylinder for your clutch (from a corvettte)
I will be adding some arp head studs and using think mls ls7 gaskets pretty sure heard they work ok with the afr heads. Thinking melling 296 pump
lower pressure spring and maybe ls2 timing chain.Is there a double roller chain that will work with the 296 with no modding..someone said jp something would??
ARP bolts are the way to go, with your gasket you want low compression 9 im sure you know this) I personally have a 9.2:1 ratio. they guys from APS said it should be lower, but i have a DD car and i dont want issues (any more then i already have
)
Do I have to do get anything on the back of the compstar crank to mount up to my m6. just put in new pilot bushing and would be good to go?
I will go auto likely next year .See how my trans and tex twin hold up. Going to keep the boost lower for now.
I would have your tranny gone thru while it is sitting out of the car, it is a wise investment. Replace syncros if needed, check plates, and put a viper output shaft in it.
Thinking will drop engine out the bottom since have cherry pickers but no hoist but seen some posts and pics of guys doing it that way. less risk of scratching up my mint car.
Oh yeah much easier to set the car on the enigne.
Will I guess bolt on the aps turbos and put engine on the bmr crossmember on the ground and then drop car ontop of it. Or will it work that way? Was almost thinking install engine and then run it for a bit then install aps but seems to be extra work. Some guys say about not breaking in engine with new turbos but factory does this obviously with no ill effects and many here have done the same thing. I will be changning out oil frequently of course.
Like three times within 1500 miles or so.
Umm i would nt lay the engine on the ground per say, a table works nice
My shop put everything motor, turbos, exhaust, tranny in as one piece and just hooked it up from there.
I was nice to my engine for about 1100-1200 miles changed the oil with Rotella diesel oil two times, then changed to synthetic. then ran the **** out of it and straped it to the dyno
Will likely be ordering the new ducts from aps and possibly their fuel system at same time. At least that way won't have to pay extra shipping on the new ducts. Not sure what to do on sway bar thats not high priority right now. Spacers or links whatever figure something out. Trying to keep my hotchkis sway bar but will go to stock sway if have to. Running no front sway would be last choice.
The fuel system is nice, just mount the regulator close to the engine not in the back per thier instructions, trust me you will thank me later
I will be rereading thru all the old threads on this subject on the forum.
So feel free to post all the tips and tricks you guys can give me.
Its a iron block 408 from Canadian Performance with callies compstar crank,compstar rods, widesco 9.5 to one custom pistons. Hellfire rings and tapered wall pins. I am using stuff in my sig for cam, heads,intake,etc.
Few questions..the block is going to be missing a hole for alternator? So just drill and tap it? Anyone know size and what tap to use? Assume easier to tap it when engine is out of the car.
Yes it will only have 2 holes to mount to. there is nothing but open air there. I am not quite sure where you are gonna tap into
Will there be any problem with the oil pan going on with the compstar rods or crank?
I have a Callies dragonslayer crank, and SCAT Hbeam rods...no problems clearing
My current ls1 stuff is going to just bolt on the 6.0 right? Knock sensors, all the rest?
yes, besides the alternator you are pretty well good, however, stuff like knock sensors, depending on the age of your motor, i would invest in some new ones, also get an adjustable master cylinder for your clutch (from a corvettte)
I will be adding some arp head studs and using think mls ls7 gaskets pretty sure heard they work ok with the afr heads. Thinking melling 296 pump
lower pressure spring and maybe ls2 timing chain.Is there a double roller chain that will work with the 296 with no modding..someone said jp something would??
ARP bolts are the way to go, with your gasket you want low compression 9 im sure you know this) I personally have a 9.2:1 ratio. they guys from APS said it should be lower, but i have a DD car and i dont want issues (any more then i already have
)Do I have to do get anything on the back of the compstar crank to mount up to my m6. just put in new pilot bushing and would be good to go?
I will go auto likely next year .See how my trans and tex twin hold up. Going to keep the boost lower for now.
I would have your tranny gone thru while it is sitting out of the car, it is a wise investment. Replace syncros if needed, check plates, and put a viper output shaft in it.
Thinking will drop engine out the bottom since have cherry pickers but no hoist but seen some posts and pics of guys doing it that way. less risk of scratching up my mint car.
Oh yeah much easier to set the car on the enigne.
Will I guess bolt on the aps turbos and put engine on the bmr crossmember on the ground and then drop car ontop of it. Or will it work that way? Was almost thinking install engine and then run it for a bit then install aps but seems to be extra work. Some guys say about not breaking in engine with new turbos but factory does this obviously with no ill effects and many here have done the same thing. I will be changning out oil frequently of course.
Like three times within 1500 miles or so.
Umm i would nt lay the engine on the ground per say, a table works nice
My shop put everything motor, turbos, exhaust, tranny in as one piece and just hooked it up from there.
I was nice to my engine for about 1100-1200 miles changed the oil with Rotella diesel oil two times, then changed to synthetic. then ran the **** out of it and straped it to the dyno
Will likely be ordering the new ducts from aps and possibly their fuel system at same time. At least that way won't have to pay extra shipping on the new ducts. Not sure what to do on sway bar thats not high priority right now. Spacers or links whatever figure something out. Trying to keep my hotchkis sway bar but will go to stock sway if have to. Running no front sway would be last choice.
The fuel system is nice, just mount the regulator close to the engine not in the back per thier instructions, trust me you will thank me later
I will be rereading thru all the old threads on this subject on the forum.
So feel free to post all the tips and tricks you guys can give me.
Hope that helped. if you have any more questions i will do what i can
09-06-2008, 02:17 AM
#4
Ok thanks for the reply. My car has 12,000 miles on it. I have new master and new slave, tex twin disc currently. I am not going to be turning the boost way up there until get built trans but as said might go auto next season. So tge trans should live. Local guy is running stock trans with his turbo and its living but he don't track it and he keeps the boost around 5 to 7psi max.
So no worry about the third bolt on the alternator is what you are saying. Two bolts will have to do.Could have sworn read somewhere about people drilling another hole. Maybe diff between pre 2004 6.0 iron blocks ?Not sure what year my block is yet until engine shows up.
So mount the regulator close to block to make it easier to adjust I would assume?
Are the aps intank pumps very noisy or pretty quiet? Hoping for pretty quiet .One reason going intank versus one huge external.
Anyone know if have to get longer pushrods with 1.8 rockers and my afr 225s?
I am hoping compression should be around 9.5 or a bit less. Not sure the thickness of the ls7 gasket compared to say cometics that come in lots of different thicknesses. I will be running alc injection all the time . Best octane in my city is 94 and am at a couple thousand feet above sea level whiich is supposed to add a couple of numbers making 94 eqiivalent to 96.
So no worry about the third bolt on the alternator is what you are saying. Two bolts will have to do.Could have sworn read somewhere about people drilling another hole. Maybe diff between pre 2004 6.0 iron blocks ?Not sure what year my block is yet until engine shows up.
So mount the regulator close to block to make it easier to adjust I would assume?
Are the aps intank pumps very noisy or pretty quiet? Hoping for pretty quiet .One reason going intank versus one huge external.
Anyone know if have to get longer pushrods with 1.8 rockers and my afr 225s?
I am hoping compression should be around 9.5 or a bit less. Not sure the thickness of the ls7 gasket compared to say cometics that come in lots of different thicknesses. I will be running alc injection all the time . Best octane in my city is 94 and am at a couple thousand feet above sea level whiich is supposed to add a couple of numbers making 94 eqiivalent to 96.
09-06-2008, 09:41 AM
#6
Staging Lane
Join Date: Aug 2008
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well there a couple of reasons for the reg up close. adjustabiliy is easy also there is no pressure drop. or at least not as much as having it in the back.
the pump is quiet for flowing as much as it does. you are gonna need to upgrade to a bigger fuel pump too. I have a NASCAR size filter. had a prob with stock restricing the flow.
the bolts on the alternator are fine I have a couple thousand miles both hwy and rough city driving and have had no problems. not sure where you saw the drilling but I have not had a problem with 2
I thought higher elevation decresed octane?
the pump is quiet for flowing as much as it does. you are gonna need to upgrade to a bigger fuel pump too. I have a NASCAR size filter. had a prob with stock restricing the flow.
the bolts on the alternator are fine I have a couple thousand miles both hwy and rough city driving and have had no problems. not sure where you saw the drilling but I have not had a problem with 2
I thought higher elevation decresed octane?
09-06-2008, 11:51 AM
#7
Bigger pump..do you mean over stock pump? or bigger aps pumps they only make the one size don't they?Confused a bit sorry.
I plan on the aps system if its decently quiet. Other options is maybe a magnafuel street pump with mabye new tank and huge lines. I am still a bit torn on the fuel system.
And as for pressure spring not sure the turbos will like high pressure might need restrictors. The low pressure should still be lots after all they are made to work on stock motor and stock oil pressure.
I plan on the aps system if its decently quiet. Other options is maybe a magnafuel street pump with mabye new tank and huge lines. I am still a bit torn on the fuel system.
And as for pressure spring not sure the turbos will like high pressure might need restrictors. The low pressure should still be lots after all they are made to work on stock motor and stock oil pressure.
