Taubr Unit

iTrader: (32)

Whats the proper way to get the pinion support all done and ready to bolt back up to the center section? I have a regular ford pinion support with new timkin bearing, solid crush sleeve etc. Now how do i set the pinion with the shims? Do i torque the pinion bolt to a certain spec. then take out the slop with the provided shims that came with my kit? Or does the nut bottom out on the pinion? I started to mess with it tonight but got too late and i dont wanna mess anything up cause im tired..

Taubr Unit

iTrader: (32)

anyone?

adam1803

iTrader: (65)

if your using a solid spacer instead of a crush sleeve you'll need to figure out the thickness required, either by measuring your old crush sleeve, or by trial and error. That is what will determine your pinion preload, thicker shim means less preload and vice versa. When you figure that out do your final assembly and just torque the hell out of the nut, i just use my impact gun.

Taubr Unit

iTrader: (32)

ok, but if i tighten the hell out of it, it puts too much preload on the bearings and it doesnt spin good at all. And i dont see how putting shims in there would make it any better.

IROC403

iTrader: (2)

By adding shims to the sleeve it wont tighten on the bearings as much.

Taubr Unit

iTrader: (32)

OK, now stupid question but the shims go under the yoke, so i dont see how/why it would put less pressure on the bearings. It seems like it would just make the yoke just stick out that much further off the bearings but with the same preload on the bearing.

Iv been searching everywhere on the net to find some pics/how-to and i find some stuff but its REALLY vague and doesnt exactely tell you what to do. Sorry for bein a pain in the ***, just tryin to learn how to do this.

Taubr Unit

iTrader: (32)

anyone else?

adam1803

iTrader: (65)

The thicker the shim, the farther apart the bearings will be, therefore creating less preload. If its easier, think of it as though the shim is what determines how far down the outer bearing sits. If it sits further from the race, it won't be pressed as tight against it.

IROC403

iTrader: (2)

the shims don't go under the yoke, they go on the pinion spacer so it stops the bearings from going too tight, I wish I has some pics it would be easier to explain. I hope you get what i'm saying now??
if your confused, call me at work and i'll try to explain it better.
978-741-1296, ken

Taubr Unit

iTrader: (32)

ok ok, so i have a solid spacer inbetween the bearings so the thin spacers stack on top of that spacer so when i torque down the pinion bolt, it spaces the bearing out JUST right so they dont tighen against the bearing race? If so thats easy and i get it, what should i torque down the pinion bolt to? Or does everyone just put it real tight?

IROC403

iTrader: (2)

You got it, I just use an air gun. Im sure theres a more presice way but ooh well, it works for me

bradyfred77

iTrader: (3)

you actually need an inch lb torque wrench with dial. put it on ur pinion nut to check how many inch lbs to turn the pinion. thats how u set pinion preload. also u should use a pinion depth gauge to set up the depth. and finally set the backlash. badshoeproductions.com has the best dvd on the 9". hes a ford master tech. so he knows what hes doin.

Taubr Unit

iTrader: (32)

i heard about that rule also and i know about the depth. For the most part you can check that when you set the lash on the gears and see how it is riding on the ring gear. And for my certain application, my car gets drivin once a month and some of the parts are temp. parts that are going to get switched out later so i can use my learning curve on it, lol.