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View Poll Results: What hits harder a wet or dry kit??
Wet
32
49.23%
Dry
3
4.62%
same $h!t
30
46.15%
Voters: 65. You may not vote on this poll

What hits harder wet vs. dry??

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Old 09-06-2008, 02:18 AM
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Default What hits harder wet vs. dry??

Like the title says.... a buddy of mine says that dry hits harder and ive always heard that wet hits harder so i told him no wet hits harder he kept insisting and put $50bux on it... i know that with a properly tuned dry it could hit about as hard as a wet.... but just vote because i want my 50 bux
Old 09-06-2008, 10:34 AM
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The HARDness of hit relys on many different factors.
amount of mojo being used.
what rpm is that being used.
rpm mode when that nitrous is being used. Meaning stalled or not etc.
whos wet system
type of system, single nozzle, plate or direct port.

I know on my cars a PLATE kit felt like it hit harder then a DIRECT port. Thought is the cooling effect of all the air and mixing of carb. fuel while that is being mixed. Gives one hell of a kick in the ***.


Hitting harder does not always mean better, it usually means broke parts are coming.
Old 09-06-2008, 11:58 AM
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On the same car same brand kit nozzle wet kit to nozzle dry kit same amount shot.... which would you initially feel hit harder wet or dry??
Old 09-06-2008, 12:08 PM
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I think its easyer to get the wet to hit harder. on a dry its hard for the nitrous to beat the fuel injector so the fuel tends to get there just a hair sooner. makes the hit softer. especually on a nozzle out in the air filter. on the dry direct its not as prevolent.
Old 09-06-2008, 12:25 PM
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I got over 300rwtq gain with a 135rwhp DRY shot and it's on a dyno print out for the doubters and many LS1tech guys were present. It's pretty simple to do and repeatable for anyone. Now with said, I could do the exact same with a wet hit. So for those that still think one hits harder than the other, not so. If we take x-amount of nitrous, and introduce it exactly the same wet or dry, and all the parameters stay the same, we will end up with the basic same increase in torque. Simple physics (see below) do not change because we like one method over the other. There is a reason that some still perceive the dry as hitting less than a comparable wet hit, but ignorance will not win races.
Robert

Physics: a science that deals with matter and energy and their interactions.
Old 09-06-2008, 03:44 PM
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Originally Posted by Robert56
I got over 300rwtq gain with a 135rwhp DRY shot and it's on a dyno print out for the doubters and many LS1tech guys were present. It's pretty simple to do and repeatable for anyone. Now with said, I could do the exact same with a wet hit. So for those that still think one hits harder than the other, not so. If we take x-amount of nitrous, and introduce it exactly the same wet or dry, and all the parameters stay the same, we will end up with the basic same increase in torque. Simple physics (see below) do not change because we like one method over the other. There is a reason that some still perceive the dry as hitting less than a comparable wet hit, but ignorance will not win races.
Robert

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Thats basically what i was saying . But it is easyer to get a wet kit to hit harder .But if you have all the right tools the dry will do the same you just need a way to adjust it...

Even you can't argue that....


BTW tq on a dyno is hard to be acurate with the "Jerk effect" causes the tq reading. 135hp does not make 300 tq.
Old 09-06-2008, 03:54 PM
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Carb plates are known for having a harder hit than a direct port. A lot of 2 stage guys spray the plate off the line and then turn the fogger on some time after that. My carb plate, even without purging the kit, left pretty damn hard.

Wet and dry should hit the same. The difference in feel will be due to the size of the shot, the tune, how long the line is between the nozzle(s) and the solenoid(s), whether or not you purge the line, how far the nozzle(s)/plate is from the cylinders, etc.

How you're adding the additional fuel won't make much of a difference.
Old 09-06-2008, 03:57 PM
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Yes it does. a dry hit the fuel comes from the injectors. if your trigering them with an arm switch the fuel will beat the nitrous if you don't tapper it in. IF your using a maf the fuel still gets there a hair sooner again if you do not tapper it in. the key is to find where you get the bet nitrous to the valve and adjust the tune as needed. We have been doing alot of dry tunning with a 2 stage dry direct port.
Old 09-06-2008, 04:00 PM
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That's a tuning issue then that causes the soft hit...Not because the injectors are where they are.

Use the HSW interface and dial in a delay. Simple.
Old 09-06-2008, 04:06 PM
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NO ****. thats why i said you need a way to adjust it. Also it needs to be tappered in. not just .2 delay then 45lb/hr of fuel. the best way is to be able to slowly bring in the fuel...
Old 09-06-2008, 07:45 PM
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Originally Posted by ShiznityZ28
NO ****. thats why i said you need a way to adjust it. Also it needs to be tappered in. not just .2 delay then 45lb/hr of fuel. the best way is to be able to slowly bring in the fuel...
Why does it need to be brought in progressively? Normal wet kits don't do it that way...They both come on instantly. You just need to time the dry so it the fuel and nitrous hit at the same time to avoid a rich spike.
Old 09-07-2008, 08:02 PM
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Trust me with the way the injector sprays if you had a way to log with enough points you would see it needs to be brought in over a few 100 rpm. we have a fast with dual dp with a 350 on it now and it cannot be just brought in all at once or you will get a rich spike or lean spike to keep the a/f nice and happy we ramp say 40lbs/hr(150 shot) over ~ 1000 rpm( depends on where it comes in) problem is efi or tuners woun't log fast enough for you to see it as much.
Old 09-07-2008, 09:59 PM
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Originally Posted by ShiznityZ28
Thats basically what i was saying . But it is easyer to get a wet kit to hit harder .But if you have all the right tools the dry will do the same you just need a way to adjust it...

Even you can't argue that....


BTW tq on a dyno is hard to be acurate with the "Jerk effect" causes the tq reading. 135hp does not make 300 tq.
Agreed, however, trying every type of dry hit out there, it's becoming quite easy for anyone to get great results. Why does 135 not make 300tq, I disagree and totally stand behind that contention. The lower you introduce x-amount of nitrous in the rpm band, the longer it stays per revolution. Thus getting more torque the lower you go. I can show another dyno print out where the same 135rwhp shot was broke up into dual stage and later in the rpm band and mimics a turbos torque curve exactly, or much more linear. actually i have that one in a comparison overlay to show that we can in fact control the torque and still get the hp. most N2O hits/set-ups have more torque than HP, but it need not be this way. that's the real secret of going bigger than one would expect a stock motor to handle, just keeping the TQ lower than the HP for a long life. The "jerk effect" or commonly known as the TQ spike is a little misleading and can get really skewed down low. the 300 increase i had is really not a gigantic spike on it's own, but actually carried pretty damn high then progressively fell off to the 5200rpm point. not disagreeing at all, but just adding some things to think about for those reading along. Oh, you should see the tq curve of the 685rwtq that killed my stock block down all under 5500rpm...
Robert
Old 09-07-2008, 10:03 PM
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Originally Posted by b00sted
Carb plates are known for having a harder hit than a direct port. A lot of 2 stage guys spray the plate off the line and then turn the fogger on some time after that. My carb plate, even without purging the kit, left pretty damn hard.

Wet and dry should hit the same. The difference in feel will be due to the size of the shot, the tune, how long the line is between the nozzle(s) and the solenoid(s), whether or not you purge the line, how far the nozzle(s)/plate is from the cylinders, etc.

How you're adding the additional fuel won't make much of a difference.
On my early dry testing i used to use N2O line length after the noid as a poor mans window SW, lol, and it will work to give a softer hit too. but again, and I know you know, that doesn't make dry softer as an absolute like some believe.
Robert
Old 09-07-2008, 10:08 PM
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Originally Posted by ShiznityZ28
Yes it does. a dry hit the fuel comes from the injectors. if your trigering them with an arm switch the fuel will beat the nitrous if you don't tapper it in. IF your using a maf the fuel still gets there a hair sooner again if you do not tapper it in. the key is to find where you get the bet nitrous to the valve and adjust the tune as needed. We have been doing alot of dry tunning with a 2 stage dry direct port.
I am really loving the dry DP as a great street/strip set-up. I may go to four stages of dry (not all DP) and try my luck at hitting the 400 hit mark as my motor was built for this punishment. A lot of the hit will be introduced high in the rpm band, though time will tell. My DP dry nozzles are aimed directly at the valve.
Robert
Old 09-07-2008, 10:12 PM
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Originally Posted by b00sted
Why does it need to be brought in progressively? Normal wet kits don't do it that way...They both come on instantly. You just need to time the dry so it the fuel and nitrous hit at the same time to avoid a rich spike.
With the dry kits I have done, after dialing them in, we get neither a lean spike nor a rich spike. Though this does not invalidate what Shiz has said, in theroy he is right, in reality, from what i have seen, it matters not much espec on the DP dry. A lot of this is still cutting edge stuff and more to learn for sure and that's why it's so interesting.
Robert
Old 09-07-2008, 10:14 PM
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Originally Posted by ShiznityZ28
Trust me with the way the injector sprays if you had a way to log with enough points you would see it needs to be brought in over a few 100 rpm. we have a fast with dual dp with a 350 on it now and it cannot be just brought in all at once or you will get a rich spike or lean spike to keep the a/f nice and happy we ramp say 40lbs/hr(150 shot) over ~ 1000 rpm( depends on where it comes in) problem is efi or tuners woun't log fast enough for you to see it as much.
See right here, I learned something. that's what makes this site so great. Now with said, the definition of HP Tuner and the like is adequate for most. However, when moving into the realm of the 7 and 8 second sprayed cars then this additional knowledge and moving to another logger is probably prudent; Though the super micro spikes may not matter even here.
Robert
Old 09-07-2008, 10:37 PM
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Here's an interesting comparason, and should make the point pretty good. He has a current thread on his combo.

ls2 bait with his n2o 416 and a wet 200shot
727 RWHP/ 688 RWTQ

Robert56 with his n2o 408 and a Dry 200shot
644rwhp 718rwtq


I made a 230rwhp increase with 200 jets, and he made a 205rwhp increase with the 200 jets. So the point is, depending on the style and method of introduction, it's not always apples to apples. According to this, dry makes more torque, but that's nonsense, just different methods. However, it does show that any dry can in fact keep up with the Jones's, lol, in the hits harder debate. Also, there are easy ways to get more HP from a given jet when running dry hits and thus the 230 increase with 200 jets.
Robert
Old 09-08-2008, 07:25 PM
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wet hits harder in my opinon
Old 09-08-2008, 09:15 PM
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This shows how bogus this question really is

TNT 150hp Wet shot, which is really 175rwhp (they under rate as a marketing ploy)

NOS 150hp Dry Shot, which is really 120rwhp (they over rate at crank hp for safety)

So now we have the clowns claiming how much harder their Wet kit hit. Again, many don't use, nor know the facts so they keep spewing nonsense all over the Internet, lol. Looking at the poll, many are still in the ignorance area of nitrous, actually it's at 53% right now. I have been asking for years, will it ever stop, lol? Either one can hit harder than the other, just depends on set-up. So the correct answer is, they hit the same.
Robert


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