What the heck was this?
#1
On The Tree
Thread Starter
What the heck was this?
Earlier today I went to start my car (cold) to show my mom the new cutout and I had absolutely nothing from the ignition,no fuel pump,no starter,no lights in the gauge cluster.
Second try,same thing except I held in the start position for a few seconds,it spontaneously came to life while holding it there and started to turn over,but I let off before it would start.Third try,it started normally,but was barely holding idle at 400-500rpm,sounded like the dang thing was cammed,which was cool,but obviously this wasn't normal.Gave it a little gas,but the idle would come back down to 500ish.
Fourth try, took the key out completely,put it back and turned onto the ON position, had gauge lights and the fuel pump primed as normal,car started flawlessly and held a normal cold idle at 1,000ish rpm.Took it for a short drive,reached closed loop,came back home,turned it off,tried cranking again and it started good again and held a good warm idle.A couple hours later I went out again and the car started and idled as it normally should.
What happened? My first thought was that the resistor on my key might be wearing out,but I wouldn't think that would cause such an abnormal cold idle,so I have no clue.No SES or security lights.The positive battery cable was a little corroded when I was replaced the battery about 2 weeks ago,but I cleaned it off and put some anti corrosion stuff on it.Any ideas?
Thanks.
Second try,same thing except I held in the start position for a few seconds,it spontaneously came to life while holding it there and started to turn over,but I let off before it would start.Third try,it started normally,but was barely holding idle at 400-500rpm,sounded like the dang thing was cammed,which was cool,but obviously this wasn't normal.Gave it a little gas,but the idle would come back down to 500ish.
Fourth try, took the key out completely,put it back and turned onto the ON position, had gauge lights and the fuel pump primed as normal,car started flawlessly and held a normal cold idle at 1,000ish rpm.Took it for a short drive,reached closed loop,came back home,turned it off,tried cranking again and it started good again and held a good warm idle.A couple hours later I went out again and the car started and idled as it normally should.
What happened? My first thought was that the resistor on my key might be wearing out,but I wouldn't think that would cause such an abnormal cold idle,so I have no clue.No SES or security lights.The positive battery cable was a little corroded when I was replaced the battery about 2 weeks ago,but I cleaned it off and put some anti corrosion stuff on it.Any ideas?
Thanks.
#3
On The Tree
Thread Starter
Nope haven't washed it in a few weeks,garaged car.It's been foggy here at night the past several nights (very high humidity),and the garage isn't air tight.I guess that could be it.
#4
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Back in the day when i had an lt1, one of my radiator lines broke when i bottomed out and coolant hit a pulley and went everywhere. Car started doing your symptoms with the low rpms and cam like sound. I had a vented opti so once it dried i was fine. Some kind of moisture could have gotten in there. Who knows...
#7
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#10
11 Second Club
iTrader: (88)
I'm leaning toward the Ignition Switch.. that sounds like what it does when it's about to go. Basically the contacts are wore out and making a bad connection.
Mine did that and eventually it got bad to where it heated up melting the main power-in wire off of the Battery, and then it finially gave out, grounded out on the Steering Column, popped the Fusible Link under the Hood and left me motionless on the side of the Highway.
Mine did that and eventually it got bad to where it heated up melting the main power-in wire off of the Battery, and then it finially gave out, grounded out on the Steering Column, popped the Fusible Link under the Hood and left me motionless on the side of the Highway.
#11
On The Tree
Thread Starter
I haven't been able to duplicate the problem since it happened.Why would a faulty ignition switch cause an abnormal idle like that? Is replacing the ignition switch something a novice/beginner can do?
Thanks
Thanks
#13
11 Second Club
iTrader: (88)
You have to take apart the lower Dash below the Steering Wheel, and honestly the easiest way is to remove the whole Steering Column..3 Bolts on the Fire Wall, 2 that hold the Column up, and one that is on the Linkage in the Engine Compartment. When you lower the Column you have better acess to unplug everything.
#14
#17
On The Tree
Thread Starter
hmm, I guess I'll wait for it to start happening more frequently before I go trying to tackle it.Hopefully that was a one time thing like the others experienced.Thank you all...
#19
Ignition switch or coil, my coil went last year, it would idle real rough like 2 cylinders weren't firing, a you couldn't give it gas past 1500 RPM, just a thought. Buy a new one, swap it out, if it doeesn't fix it, return the new part you just bought, process of elimination. Just don't do what I did trying to replace it:
new opti, ignition module (maybe try this too), water pump-bearings shot, plug & wires-always a good idea, coil = $$$$$
new opti, ignition module (maybe try this too), water pump-bearings shot, plug & wires-always a good idea, coil = $$$$$