frito1

iTrader: (12)

Guys, my car has been tuned by a tuner with a full day of road driving and dyno time. I then took it back to do some more tweaking. I still have an idle that will bounce up and down at times if I let off the throttle quickly. It will eventually kill itself when it revs up and falls back too low and can't catch itself in time. He raised the idle when I'm driving which causes the car to have a very annoying high hanging idle till after I come to complete stop, then it will go back down. He is using that to compensate and says that is what I have to live with. He said he could/would turn that hanging idle up even more to keep it from stalling. I said I hate that as it is. I told him I don't like compromises. Am I asking too much for a med. sized cam? He said the big TB's always give him problems. Mine isn't drilled or anything. Do I have to live with this or is it able to be tuned out?

Thanks for any info!

frito1

iTrader: (12)

He uses HP tuner btw

frito1

iTrader: (12)

Another thought.... do I need to adjust the throttle blade. I haven't touched it... maybe I need to check the voltage?

frito1

iTrader: (12)

I just went out and checked. I'm getting .58 volts at idle. That is ok, right?

LS1Formulation

iTrader: (13)

My car was having the same problem. You're not getting enough air at idle. Your idle air control motor is maxing itself out trying to add enough air. Adjust your throttle blades open slightly and it'll improve your idle a LOT.

nj02vette

iTrader: (2)

Strictly speaking......find another tuner. Sounds like you're not happy with this one, and I don't blame you.

I'm a complete novice, and even I know that you can compensate for that by adjusting the stall saver table, without having to increase idle. Enter a good RPM in the table (like 750RPM) for all RPM's under 800 in both the idle P/N and idle in gear tables. That way, if the computer ever senses the idle dropping below 750RPM's, it will quickly adjust to keep the idle up.