EpicBlue96

Just got an 1996 M6 Z28. I really enjoy it but its got some problems to be attended to... First the car like to come way too close to the red on the temp gauge. Stays normal with the heat on but I dont know where to start to fix the problem (its still hot during the day here and running the heat blows). Second, trans has hop due to what I think is the trans mount but everyone says do a stocker replace since the others will cause vibration.

other things
-coolant low light(typical on the lt1 i heard?)
-misfiring(i think it needs plugs and wires)
-Gas gauge misreads, when it gets to between quarter and E its actually E

I really want to start on the right foot here and fix all the issues before doing some mild bolt ons. Any help i thank for in advance and glad to be a new owner except for the problems!

ORedRoc4

iTrader: (15)

Sounds like thermostat is going out, get a 160 degree anyway. Slap it in and it SHOULD fix that problem. cheap fix too...

-justin

FlamingChicken

iTrader: (2)

how hot is hot? just swapping tstats and not lowering your fan temps will do nothing. i think stock settings have the 2nd fan come on at ~235. as for your fuel gauge, not sure what to tell you. i dont know of any that work accurately.

ORedRoc4

iTrader: (15)

well i meant just to solve the overheating... for it to work properly yes you will need either a 160 degree fan switch or a tune... I have the 160 t-stat and fan switch and it works wonders.

-justin

EpicBlue96

anyone else can help me with my grocery list of problems? I really want to start my mods soon but not befour i work through the gremlins

LT1

iTrader: (1)

If you look on this website it will tell you how accurate the stock fuel gauge is.

http://shbox.com/1/4th_gen_tech2.html#fuel_gauge


Dont install a sbc thermostat check this link out

http://shbox.com/1/tstat.jpg

Usally if the low coolant light is on could mean 2 things, you have low coolant or bad sensor. unplug the sensor and light will go away (do it at your own risk). The sensor cost about $60 new.

EpicBlue96

thanks to everyone for the start to some help. LT1, that site for the gauge is exactly what mine does so i guess ill learn to live with it. On the other hand im not sure which replacement thermostat to put in. I heard a 160 would need to have the ecm reprogrammed so should i go stock? Really once i do the plugs and wires and make sure the engine dosent get that hot again, i want to start with my exhaust and cam/headwork.

Counted Out

iTrader: (6)

The gas gauge is a problem on most 4th Gens - just gotta remember to fill up early.

EpicBlue96

yeah thats for sure! i fill up right before i reach a quarter lol, but before i do anything like I said im doing plugs, wires, and thermostat sometime this week. Some people are tell me to go ac delco plugs and wire and then just any brand stock temp thermostat. Im unsure on which brands to get since im so new to the lt1. Anyone have suggestions- ac delco, bosch, ect (for plugs and wires) and i don't no what kind of thermo to get but my buddy hows a mech said stay stock like 185-195 degree. Thanks all

AChotrod

iTrader: (17)

Your first fix can also be your first mod, Get a 160 stat and fan switch, check and bleed your coolant system. Maybe even have it flushed out.
I would get a stock trans mount if its a clunking sound coming from the rear of the trans I hated my poly mounts tried it on 3 cars and always take them out.
New opti plugs and wires is what I would do for the misfire(start with the plugs and wires and avoid the cost of the opti if you can but its not a bad idea to change it anyways)

Malicious

iTrader: (1)

My gas gauge is off significantly heh.. Doesn't go totally full and I can still drive around with it PASSED empty lol..

EpicBlue96

hmmm... I talked to my mech about that and he said there no advantage to running cooler then stock. The thing is when the car is at a slighty warmer temp the car has better emissions and pollutes less and burns less fuel. Unless it were a total race car, its really useless to run a street car cooler then usual.

But, what would be a good web site for the plugs, wires, and thermostat. Im either going bocsh or ac delco and im not sure what kind of wires and thermo? any help would be great, thanks

LT1

iTrader: (1)

i would go with ac delco plug and wires. and stock 180 thermostat from dealer. get the car running right then worry about doing mods later.

unless you plan to run nitrous or force induction system, dont worry about getting spark plugs/wires other than stock.

my suggestion do all your basic bolt-on's before you do head/cam because thats when you'll see any real hp/tq gain.

EpicBlue96

LT1, do you know of a good site to get ac delco plugs and wires for a fair deal?
And tomorrow i guess i have to make a trip to the stealership (crap) to get a stock thermostat. Also, i might as well have my mech flush the system whats a good coolant to replace before he bleeds it? thanks again

AChotrod

iTrader: (17)

Im not sure I uderstand? If your going to mod the car why not get good wires and do the 160 stat/ fan switch now. You going to do it anyways. Its not going to make your car fail emissions either. And it will fix your problems, If that is the problem to start with.

Your mech is wrong. A hotter motor makes less power always. Its actually noticable on the street.

If you plan on keeping the car stock then yes just use replacement parts.
Just sayin, No sense in spending the money twice.

LT1

iTrader: (1)

sorry i dont know off the top of my head, ill do some search and post up a link later.

i believe OBD II 96+ fbody's use "dex cool"

you could get a 160 thermostat, but you wont use the full potential of it till you get the car tuned for 160 thermo, thats why i recommend to go with stock 180 thermo.

SnakeOiler

iTrader: (6)

No, what he said was correct - there was no mention about the power the engine is making. GM programmed these engines hot for the very reason of emissions. But, you are correct about a cooler engine making more power, of course.

pointvirus

When I bought my '95 last year, I had a overheating issue as well (stuck thermo). I went a put a 160 thermo in and it hasn't given me any problems since. IMO, I think the car just plain runs better/faster with it. Just make sure that you bleed the system really well, and that whatever site you get it from sends you the right thermostat.

EpicBlue96

im might go with the slp 160 thermostat then, but like it was mentioned i will need it tuned and his shop only has hptuners which as it was explained only covers obd1 lt1 cars. So would i need to do a pcm4less or similar tune? I find it rediculous to have to do a tune that way cause when i start doing headers and ect i have to get the pcm retuned every time i do some mods? Why dosent hptuners just cover the damn obd2 lt1

pointvirus

I wouldn't worry about getting it tuned after a thermo swap. You're fine dude, wait for the headers to come on before you start to worry about tuning and emissions. Trust me, you'll be glad you put the 160 in there!

Regarding the trans mount, you can go with a stock rubber one. I just recently put a poly mount in. I felt alot more vibration than I did before, but my old trans mount was split in half so I don't really have a good basis of "alot of vibration". I'm defintely biased on this one, but I don't mind the added vibration, I think it's more "muscle car" like. I have heard that the poly mount can sometimes be too rigid and can cause the tailshaft to break, but then again i've heard from several other people that go the poly route and they're fine.