Please look at my Log and Tune - Files attached
10-01-2008, 09:29 AM
#1
Please look at my Log and Tune - Files attached Hey guys,
I recently picked up a new daily driver. The car is bone stock other than a cat, lid, and gears.
The car has a bit of a hesitation to it, and the SES light is on.
The car seems to kind of stutter from about 3k to 5k (never a problem at low RPM, and clears up by the time you get it past 5k or so)
It doesn't do it 100% of the time, but most of the time.
If i just put it back and forth to work (2 miles or less) without taking it past 2k or so, its fine. The SES light will sometimes not even be on. Once i hammer on it a bit, the SES light comes right back on.
I read the codes last night and it was reading:
Bank 1 Sensor 1 Low Voltage
Bank 2 Sensor 1 Low Voltage
The car has o2 sims on the rear sims because it has gutted cats.
The car is somewhat high mileage (148k).
Can you guys take a look and tell me if you think its truly the o2 sensors?
Im also getting read to put new plugs and wires on it, and remove the EGR (how do i remove it in EFI Live?)
Also... maybe look at the tuning file and tell me if i can gain a little power here or there with timing or fuel or something?
Thanks.... im a newbie to EFI Live, but im getting ready to take it on a road trip this weekend and want to get it figured out.
Notes on attached files:
One log is right after i pulled it in the garage and let it sit for about an hour. It still had the ses light on at that point. I let it idle and rev'd a bit here and there, this is with the car sitting.
The second log is after i let it sit for a bit longer, then turned it back on and the SES light was gone. Same as last time, just started it up and let it idle, revd on it a bit.
*I cant seem to get the tuning file attached, i can email to anyone upon request*
I recently picked up a new daily driver. The car is bone stock other than a cat, lid, and gears.
The car has a bit of a hesitation to it, and the SES light is on.
The car seems to kind of stutter from about 3k to 5k (never a problem at low RPM, and clears up by the time you get it past 5k or so)
It doesn't do it 100% of the time, but most of the time.
If i just put it back and forth to work (2 miles or less) without taking it past 2k or so, its fine. The SES light will sometimes not even be on. Once i hammer on it a bit, the SES light comes right back on.
I read the codes last night and it was reading:
Bank 1 Sensor 1 Low Voltage
Bank 2 Sensor 1 Low Voltage
The car has o2 sims on the rear sims because it has gutted cats.
The car is somewhat high mileage (148k).
Can you guys take a look and tell me if you think its truly the o2 sensors?
Im also getting read to put new plugs and wires on it, and remove the EGR (how do i remove it in EFI Live?)
Also... maybe look at the tuning file and tell me if i can gain a little power here or there with timing or fuel or something?
Thanks.... im a newbie to EFI Live, but im getting ready to take it on a road trip this weekend and want to get it figured out.
Notes on attached files:
One log is right after i pulled it in the garage and let it sit for about an hour. It still had the ses light on at that point. I let it idle and rev'd a bit here and there, this is with the car sitting.
The second log is after i let it sit for a bit longer, then turned it back on and the SES light was gone. Same as last time, just started it up and let it idle, revd on it a bit.
*I cant seem to get the tuning file attached, i can email to anyone upon request*
10-01-2008, 12:19 PM
#5
Would really appreciate some input guys.
I was getting ready to buy 2 new o2 sensors but hate to drop all that money if its not the case. I was reading thru some old posts and am seeing it could be a number of things, given the symptoms. Im hearing everything from crank sensors, to EGR/AIR, etc.
Car is going to get new plugs and wires tonight, as well as delete the EGR. I have a sprae crank sensor but hate to go to the trouble if im barking up the wrong tree.
I was getting ready to buy 2 new o2 sensors but hate to drop all that money if its not the case. I was reading thru some old posts and am seeing it could be a number of things, given the symptoms. Im hearing everything from crank sensors, to EGR/AIR, etc.
Car is going to get new plugs and wires tonight, as well as delete the EGR. I have a sprae crank sensor but hate to go to the trouble if im barking up the wrong tree.
10-01-2008, 01:10 PM
#7
TECH Addict
iTrader: (10)
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Commerce Twp, MI
Posts: 2,918
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Sounds like you may need new O2 sensors based on the codes your reading. If the PCM thought the fueling was off based on their feedback, it'll alter fueling enough to cause stumbling. Either way, I can say with 99% certainty that on a mostly stock car, the problem will be mechanical and not in the tune.
Trending Topics
10-01-2008, 01:19 PM
#8
Sounds like you may need new O2 sensors based on the codes your reading. If the PCM thought the fueling was off based on their feedback, it'll alter fueling enough to cause stumbling. Either way, I can say with 99% certainty that on a mostly stock car, the problem will be mechanical and not in the tune.
I have all the stuff on the way to do a dry kit on the car, and want to make sure all the bugs are out of the way before i spray it.
10-01-2008, 01:24 PM
#9
TECH Addict
iTrader: (10)
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Commerce Twp, MI
Posts: 2,918
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Sounds like you may need new O2 sensors based on the codes your reading. If the PCM thought the fueling was off based on their feedback, it'll alter fueling enough to cause stumbling. Either way, I can say with 99% certainty that on a mostly stock car, the problem will be mechanical and not in the tune.
The alternator should come off in 15 mins if you have a set of rhino ramps or some jack stands (3 bolts -13mm IIRC- plus the 15mm you'll need to get the serp belt off). Battery is even easier. Then, take a quick ride over to an Autozone-type place where they test for free.
10-01-2008, 02:13 PM
#11
TECH Addict
iTrader: (10)
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Commerce Twp, MI
Posts: 2,918
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Even if it is the crank sensor - it's also relatively easy to get to from under the car (rhino ramps or jack stands). Just pull the starter and there's a single bolt holding the crank sensor in. It's a $100 part to replace if you need to. That's why I was saying go through the process of elimination with the other stuff first. Just make sure you don't pinch the o-ring if you have to change it or you'll have a nice little 'drip drip' in the garage.Personally, I'd like to hear someone explain how a bad crank sensor could show up as bad O2 sensors...
10-01-2008, 02:22 PM
#12
Anything's possible. Even if it is the crank sensor - it's also relatively easy to get to from under the car (rhino ramps or jack stands). Just pull the starter and there's a single bolt holding the crank sensor in. It's a $100 part to replace if you need to. That's why I was saying go through the process of elimination with the other stuff first. Just make sure you don't pinch the o-ring if you have to change it or you'll have a nice little 'drip drip' in the garage.
Personally, I'd like to hear someone explain how a bad crank sensor could show up as bad O2 sensors...
Even if it is the crank sensor - it's also relatively easy to get to from under the car (rhino ramps or jack stands). Just pull the starter and there's a single bolt holding the crank sensor in. It's a $100 part to replace if you need to. That's why I was saying go through the process of elimination with the other stuff first. Just make sure you don't pinch the o-ring if you have to change it or you'll have a nice little 'drip drip' in the garage.Personally, I'd like to hear someone explain how a bad crank sensor could show up as bad O2 sensors...
I have a list of things im gona try tonight. Hopefully one of them fixes it. I guess i will never know which one fixed it since im doing them all at once, but i dont care at this point , lol.
10-05-2008, 08:45 PM
#14
EFIlive.
Just lookin at it quick, you need to be loggin fuel trims with it too, and MAF Hz.
My guess would be that you need to clean the MAF. The 02s look real slow, but without seeing the fuel trims, and the MAF Hz, its hard to say if it's off.
Just lookin at it quick, you need to be loggin fuel trims with it too, and MAF Hz.
My guess would be that you need to clean the MAF. The 02s look real slow, but without seeing the fuel trims, and the MAF Hz, its hard to say if it's off.
Last edited by edcmat-l1; 10-05-2008 at 08:51 PM.
10-05-2008, 10:00 PM
#15
TECH Resident
iTrader: (17)
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: NC - Charlotte area
Posts: 3,747
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
god i feel stupid. I downloaded it and for some reason efi live didn't immediately recognize it... so i thought what in the world....but yeh turns out it works. I agree with above.
10-05-2008, 11:09 PM
#16
TECH Addict
iTrader: (10)
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Commerce Twp, MI
Posts: 2,918
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
One last suggestion based on what I did this weekend. Friend of mine had a similar problem....was only able to muster up a 14.x @ 100mph at the track on Sat. Logged the car and he had low voltage / lean codes. Turned out, his MAF was toasted and was only reading 180 grams/sec of airflow peak at WOT. We swapped in a different MAF and it made a world of difference. WOT went to 250 grams/sec of airflow and he said it was the first time since he bought the car that it was fighting traction in 2nd. So, even if you clean the MAF, it might not hurt to borrow a friend's to see if that's the source of your problems as well.
10-06-2008, 07:27 AM
#17
Some updates on the car:
I ended up changing the fuel pump. I went with a Walbro 255 and just wired it directly in to the stock wiring.
It SEEMED to fix the issue. I didn't get many chances to romp on it last night, but the couple times i did seemed to feel like the hesitation was gone.
Im going to put the EFI Live scan tool on it, and figure out how to hook up my wideband, and drive around and log it for a bit.
I ended up changing the fuel pump. I went with a Walbro 255 and just wired it directly in to the stock wiring.
It SEEMED to fix the issue. I didn't get many chances to romp on it last night, but the couple times i did seemed to feel like the hesitation was gone.
Im going to put the EFI Live scan tool on it, and figure out how to hook up my wideband, and drive around and log it for a bit.
10-06-2008, 07:47 AM
#18
At part throttle, I could care less what a WB says, as it's obvious the NBs are lazy and hanging around down low.
The most likely cause, is the MAF is dirty. Simple to diag, simple to fix.
