Taking the plunge: LS3 into '64 Tempest. Need help with shopping list.
10-04-2008, 06:10 PM
#1
Taking the plunge: LS3 into '64 Tempest. Need help with shopping list. It's time for me to start planning my LS3 engine swap, the car I'm using for my project is my '64 Pontiac Tempest 'sleeper' that was powered by a mild 455 Tri-Power engine. I have owned a 2002 WS6 A4 convertible since new so I know just how great these LSX engines are, my 100% stock 5.7 T/A is 1/2 second quicker in the 1/4 than my 455 Tempest.
My Tempest is NOT a hard-core Pro-Touring car. Link to car details:http://www.pro-touring.com/showthrea...Pontiac-owner.
I want to keep it low-key and continue the sleeper theme. The bench seat and column shifter will stay, with no changes to the stock dash/gauges. I already have oil pressure, trans and and water temp gauges under the dash, I'll add other gauges if needed. I won't need a tach, the trans will be programmed to shift before the engine redline. But if it seems like a good idea to add one, I will.
Having the power of a new '08 Corvette should make it a lot more fun. I won't add aftermarket engine dress-up items, add an engine cover, move the coil packs off the valve covers or anything like that.
Knocking a good 250 to 300 pounds off the front end with an all-aluminum V8 should do wonders for handling. Plus a new fuel-injected 6.2 engine should give me close to a 130 HP boost (hoping the stock LS3 with headers/2.5" mandrell-bent exhaust will be close to 460 HP) and reward me with close to double my current fuel mileage (9-10 city, 12-13 highway with 2.56 gears).
My low-compression (8.2:1) 335 HP 455 wasn't the most fuel-efficient engine, but it was dead-reliable and put together with all stock Pontiac parts. It easily yanked the 'ol Tempest (3780# without driver) into the high 13s in the 1/4 (13.899 @ 101.85), using 1st and 2nd gear only, I'm sure knocking off some weight and adding 130 HP will knock over a second off my ET.
I want to install a new LS3 430 HP crate engine, the only mod to the engine will be a set of headers and a tune. I want to keep it a reliable, smooth-running and fuel-efficient package, so no big cam or other mods. I plan on buying the wiring harness from GM that's made for the LS3 crate engine, unless there's a better or cheaper alternative.
I will be running an automatic trans of some kind, and it's very important that I keep the trans mounted in the stock location as I want to keep the factory column shifter and linkage. I don't want to run any conversion mounts that will jack up the engine/trans or move them forward or back from the stock location.
I'm hoping to find a combination of mostly stock GM accessory drives that will work with my plan of keeping the engine/trans in the stock location. Same thing goes for the oil pan and header selection. I'd prefer to run a factory pan of some kind (good luck, maybe the LH8?), but if I need an aftermarket pan of some sort to provide crossmember to pan as well as tie rod to pan clearance I'll buy one.
Right now the way the car is set up, I'm using a TH400 trans with the original ST300 2-speed auto shift linkage, the steering column and shifter detent have been modified (column slots lengthened for more travel, new low-gear detent step welded on) in order to select all 3 gears.
I'll either add a Gear Vendor OD to the existing TH400 (freshly rebuilt) with tight 10" Continental 3200 converter (also spankin' new) , or go with a 4L60E or possibly a 4L80E. Not sure if I want to deal with electronic auto trans control or not, but with the DBW LS3 engine it may be the best way to go.
Cruise control would be nice. I'll put the TH400/10" Continental in one of my other cars and go for a modern GM OD auto if that's the best route, hopefully without too much hammering on the trans tunnel. My column shift should be adaptable, I'll let the new 4L60E do all the shifting after I pop it into either Drive or OD with my lil' Granny column shifter.
Air conditioning is a must, a Vintage Air setup or whatever will be installed, so I'll need to accomodate an A/C compressor in the accessory drives.
I would like to run an in-tank fuel pump. Would any of the aftermarket Chevelle stainless steel tanks adapt to the Tempest/Lemans/GTO? I know the filler necks are different, perhaps the Tempest neck could be added to one. I can mod my stock tank if that would be a better way to go.
The rear end has been changed from th 2.56 open rear that was original to the car to a 3.36 posi. It is a factory 1966 GTO 8.2" 10-bolt so I hope it will hang in there a while if I don't thrash it too hard, this isn't a drag car with sticky tires so it should be okay.
Any help with putting together a shopping list for engine mounts, oil pan, accessory drives, headers (again keeping in mind the trans needs to stay put in the stock location) along with a fuel system and any electronics/wiring I'll need to buy would be greatly appreciated.
My apologies for the long-winded post, I tried not to leave anything out.
My Tempest is NOT a hard-core Pro-Touring car. Link to car details:http://www.pro-touring.com/showthrea...Pontiac-owner.
I want to keep it low-key and continue the sleeper theme. The bench seat and column shifter will stay, with no changes to the stock dash/gauges. I already have oil pressure, trans and and water temp gauges under the dash, I'll add other gauges if needed. I won't need a tach, the trans will be programmed to shift before the engine redline. But if it seems like a good idea to add one, I will.
Having the power of a new '08 Corvette should make it a lot more fun. I won't add aftermarket engine dress-up items, add an engine cover, move the coil packs off the valve covers or anything like that.
Knocking a good 250 to 300 pounds off the front end with an all-aluminum V8 should do wonders for handling. Plus a new fuel-injected 6.2 engine should give me close to a 130 HP boost (hoping the stock LS3 with headers/2.5" mandrell-bent exhaust will be close to 460 HP) and reward me with close to double my current fuel mileage (9-10 city, 12-13 highway with 2.56 gears).
My low-compression (8.2:1) 335 HP 455 wasn't the most fuel-efficient engine, but it was dead-reliable and put together with all stock Pontiac parts. It easily yanked the 'ol Tempest (3780# without driver) into the high 13s in the 1/4 (13.899 @ 101.85), using 1st and 2nd gear only, I'm sure knocking off some weight and adding 130 HP will knock over a second off my ET.
I want to install a new LS3 430 HP crate engine, the only mod to the engine will be a set of headers and a tune. I want to keep it a reliable, smooth-running and fuel-efficient package, so no big cam or other mods. I plan on buying the wiring harness from GM that's made for the LS3 crate engine, unless there's a better or cheaper alternative.
I will be running an automatic trans of some kind, and it's very important that I keep the trans mounted in the stock location as I want to keep the factory column shifter and linkage. I don't want to run any conversion mounts that will jack up the engine/trans or move them forward or back from the stock location.
I'm hoping to find a combination of mostly stock GM accessory drives that will work with my plan of keeping the engine/trans in the stock location. Same thing goes for the oil pan and header selection. I'd prefer to run a factory pan of some kind (good luck, maybe the LH8?), but if I need an aftermarket pan of some sort to provide crossmember to pan as well as tie rod to pan clearance I'll buy one.
Right now the way the car is set up, I'm using a TH400 trans with the original ST300 2-speed auto shift linkage, the steering column and shifter detent have been modified (column slots lengthened for more travel, new low-gear detent step welded on) in order to select all 3 gears.
I'll either add a Gear Vendor OD to the existing TH400 (freshly rebuilt) with tight 10" Continental 3200 converter (also spankin' new) , or go with a 4L60E or possibly a 4L80E. Not sure if I want to deal with electronic auto trans control or not, but with the DBW LS3 engine it may be the best way to go.
Cruise control would be nice. I'll put the TH400/10" Continental in one of my other cars and go for a modern GM OD auto if that's the best route, hopefully without too much hammering on the trans tunnel. My column shift should be adaptable, I'll let the new 4L60E do all the shifting after I pop it into either Drive or OD with my lil' Granny column shifter.
Air conditioning is a must, a Vintage Air setup or whatever will be installed, so I'll need to accomodate an A/C compressor in the accessory drives.
I would like to run an in-tank fuel pump. Would any of the aftermarket Chevelle stainless steel tanks adapt to the Tempest/Lemans/GTO? I know the filler necks are different, perhaps the Tempest neck could be added to one. I can mod my stock tank if that would be a better way to go.
The rear end has been changed from th 2.56 open rear that was original to the car to a 3.36 posi. It is a factory 1966 GTO 8.2" 10-bolt so I hope it will hang in there a while if I don't thrash it too hard, this isn't a drag car with sticky tires so it should be okay.
Any help with putting together a shopping list for engine mounts, oil pan, accessory drives, headers (again keeping in mind the trans needs to stay put in the stock location) along with a fuel system and any electronics/wiring I'll need to buy would be greatly appreciated.
My apologies for the long-winded post, I tried not to leave anything out.
Last edited by b-man64; 01-29-2011 at 11:52 PM.
10-04-2008, 07:40 PM
#3
Either one would be fine.
I'm sure a complete '08 'vette LS3 engine complete with accessories and all the small parts would speed things along and same me some cash.
If I can't get my hands on a takeout I'll go the crate engine route.
Hey, don't I know you from somewhere?
I'm sure a complete '08 'vette LS3 engine complete with accessories and all the small parts would speed things along and same me some cash.
If I can't get my hands on a takeout I'll go the crate engine route.
Hey, don't I know you from somewhere?
10-05-2008, 08:26 AM
#4
I would reccomend a lock up converter. I'm really not sure about the colum shifter though. Your k member doesnt look much different than my firebirds your steering box looks like it might have a little more clerence but i have no idea about keeping the stock trans location i think that would be very hard to do. They dont make an after market shifter linkage?
You will need a chevy to BOP adapter for the trans to mount about $54 from jegs, and a spacer for the converter to work with the LS1 flext plate which is like another $50 and you will have to 'oval' the existing converter holes on the flexplate to get them to bolt up.
I'mnot to sure on what else. I dont think your transmission crossember is offset like it was on my firebird and on bbc camaros because your steering box is in a different location.
You will need a chevy to BOP adapter for the trans to mount about $54 from jegs, and a spacer for the converter to work with the LS1 flext plate which is like another $50 and you will have to 'oval' the existing converter holes on the flexplate to get them to bolt up.
I'mnot to sure on what else. I dont think your transmission crossember is offset like it was on my firebird and on bbc camaros because your steering box is in a different location.
10-05-2008, 10:17 AM
#6
Thanks for all of your helpful input, very much appreciated.
Hoping for some advice and guidance from some members here who are familiar with doing the LSX swap into the early GM A-body cars.
I'm sure the very popular '64 -'65 Chevelle has been done quite a few times here and most of what it takes to do one would surely apply to my Tempest.
Hoping for some advice and guidance from some members here who are familiar with doing the LSX swap into the early GM A-body cars.
I'm sure the very popular '64 -'65 Chevelle has been done quite a few times here and most of what it takes to do one would surely apply to my Tempest.
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10-06-2008, 03:44 PM
#10
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I just finished installing a ls1 a4 in a 1965 cutlass.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/showthrea...6762&highlight
I used the factory 2 speed column shifter. It hooked right up to the 4l60 with no mods required. I fabbed my own engine mounts using the f-body frame and engine mounts that came with my 2002 pullout. I believe my engine is pushed forward from some of the chevelle guys. I had a mechanical throttle linkage that had to clear the back of the engine. I had to modify my trans cross member and message the tunnel too get the trans to fit. I also had to create my on alt bracket because my f-body accessories hit the steering box. Good luck with your build nice ride.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/showthrea...6762&highlight
I used the factory 2 speed column shifter. It hooked right up to the 4l60 with no mods required. I fabbed my own engine mounts using the f-body frame and engine mounts that came with my 2002 pullout. I believe my engine is pushed forward from some of the chevelle guys. I had a mechanical throttle linkage that had to clear the back of the engine. I had to modify my trans cross member and message the tunnel too get the trans to fit. I also had to create my on alt bracket because my f-body accessories hit the steering box. Good luck with your build nice ride.
Last edited by rockytopper; 10-06-2008 at 03:59 PM.
10-13-2008, 11:53 PM
#11
I just finished installing a ls1 a4 in a 1965 cutlass.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/showthrea...6762&highlight
I used the factory 2 speed column shifter. It hooked right up to the 4l60 with no mods required. I fabbed my own engine mounts using the f-body frame and engine mounts that came with my 2002 pullout. I believe my engine is pushed forward from some of the chevelle guys. I had a mechanical throttle linkage that had to clear the back of the engine. I had to modify my trans cross member and message the tunnel too get the trans to fit. I also had to create my on alt bracket because my f-body accessories hit the steering box. Good luck with your build nice ride.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/showthrea...6762&highlight
I used the factory 2 speed column shifter. It hooked right up to the 4l60 with no mods required. I fabbed my own engine mounts using the f-body frame and engine mounts that came with my 2002 pullout. I believe my engine is pushed forward from some of the chevelle guys. I had a mechanical throttle linkage that had to clear the back of the engine. I had to modify my trans cross member and message the tunnel too get the trans to fit. I also had to create my on alt bracket because my f-body accessories hit the steering box. Good luck with your build nice ride.
Still gathering info, thanks again to all who have contributed here!
11-09-2008, 05:55 PM
#12
Gettin' on with it..... So far I've purchased most of the items I'll need to do the swap, I'll try to mention LS1tech.com site sponsors whenever I can.
I'll post a few pics of the engine and parts I've collected so far later next week when the engine arrives. Still trying to decide which auto trans and converter to buy and who to buy from , but I'll figure that out pretty soon.
Parts list with costs:
SPI EFI-ready tank - $429 + $76 ship
GF872 filter/reg - $45 + $7 ship
Autokraft pan kit - $430 + $20 ship
Chevelle repro frame mount brackets, pair - $78 + $14 ship
Edelbrock engine swap headers - $600 + $12 handling fee*
Edelbrock engine mount adapter plates - $65 *
Energy Suspension urethane engine mounts, pair - $72 *
Griffin 25202-X 24" x 19" aluminum universal radiator - $196 *
KWiK Performance A/C brackets (no need to notch frame)- $197 + $9 ship
AC Delco 3231640 remanufactured starter (includes $45 core charge)- $295 + $17 ship*
AC Delco 11588456 starter bolts (2) - $7*
Dorman 620634 Radiator Fan Assy ('98 -'02 F-body) - $156 + $12 ship
GM 19201992 LS3 crate engine - $6,195 + $185 ship (thanks Jesse at Scoggin-Dickey Parts Center)
GM 19155067 Corvette accessory drive kit - $770 + $16 handling
Total cost so far - $9,903
Now, to get started.
Since the engine and trans are already out of the car, the next task will be to pull the interior out of the car. The front & rear seats and rubber floor mat (the Tempest didn't have carpet from the factory) have to come out so I can get under the dash to install the air conditioning components that I still need to buy. I know that a lot of wiring will need to be done too so the inner firewall will need to be stripped bare. The seats need to be reupholstered and a new headliner installed.
The floorpans need a little attention, they will be coated with POR-15 rust preventive paint to stop the rust that has started underneath the rubber floor mat. Any water that gets underneath the rubber mat can't dry out very fast like wet carpet would so there's more than a bit of rust, all of these early A-body cars have leaky windshields and backlights.
Since the weather's been extra nice (in the mid-80s) the last few days I took the opportunity to do some more badly-needed garage cleaning and remove the interior from the Tempest.
Junk in the trunk. Most of the parts I've collected so far are crammed in the trunk until I have a better place to put them.
A good used '66 8.2" 3.36 posi rear has been put aside for this project, already scrubbed down with a wire brush and some Simple Green. Two coats of POR-15 semi-gloss black, urethane upper bushings, and some better-fitting brake lines are all it needs. A new charge of GM #1052271 80W-90 axle lubricant and a 4oz bottle of GM #1052358 limited slip axle lubricant additive will be added as well.
Note to self: Do not hammer it too hard out of the hole with this rear end!
This is the farthest the Tempest has ventured out of the garage in years, just far enough to get the driver's door open to access the front seat bolts. It pushes back inside pretty easily, the driveway slope isn't too severe at this point. The original black CA plates just add to the charm of this once thrifty little beauty.
A shot of the original 140 HP 215 straight six that came in this car, it's identical to the 230 Chevy six other than having a smaller bore size (3.750" vs 3.875" for the 230) and having 'PONTIAC' cast into both sides of the block. So yes the little Tempest originally came with a 'corporate' engine of sorts.
The same engine was used for the '65 A-body as the standard engine as well, both the Lemans and Tempest rolled off the assembly line with one of these if you didn't ask for the 326 V8. It's getting a 'corporate' engine again that will get even better gas mileage and have about 4 times the power.
A look inside before the teardown. The seats are in need of attention, especially the front bench. A nice blue indian blanket (already removed here) made the front bench liveable in the past, but now it's time for a decent upholstery job. All of the upholstery pictured is the original issue for this '64 Tempest.
A shot of the original rubber floor mats that came in the low-line Tempest. Easy to clean off with a sponge and soapy water, I kind of prefer these rubber mats to carpet in a daily driver.
What I now have to deal with: Removal of all the old sound deadener and some minor (I hope) rust repair. I do see a few holes that have started under the driver's foot area and one just behind the passenger side of the front bench where it bolts down. All of the bolts holding the seat belts and front seat down came out easily.
A look at the dash and front floors. Note the original cardboard sun visors that don't attach and pivot off of the rear view mirror, there's no day-night mirror on this base model. Simple and inexpensive, but still a lot of car for the money back in '64.
Seats stashed until I can get them to an upholstery shop.
Junk now out of the trunk. I have a '66 VW Type II pickup stashed in the garage, it makes a perfect work bench or storage spot. The completely flat bed on this little one-ton truck is 5' 6" wide and 8' 10" long. The 'covered wagon' canvas top is a unique factory option on this truck.
And if you're wondering, yes it does handle. With a 94.5" wheelbase that's within an inch or two of a C4/C5 'vette, a super-low center of gravity (only the cab itself puts any real weight above the beltline), fully independent suspension and an empty weight of only 2400# it corners like it's on rails.
I put those 16X8.5" 1984 'vette rims and 205/55-16 tires on it back in '86, when all the Corvette guys were dumping them for aftermarket rims or for newer 'vette 16X9.5" rims. Drilled the front discs (off a '71 Type II Bus) and the rear drums (IRS rear suspension/drum brakes off a '70 Type III Squareback) for the Chevy 5 on 4.75" pattern and they bolted right on with no room to spare, but with no cutting on the body.
More to come.....
I'll post a few pics of the engine and parts I've collected so far later next week when the engine arrives. Still trying to decide which auto trans and converter to buy and who to buy from , but I'll figure that out pretty soon.
Parts list with costs:
SPI EFI-ready tank - $429 + $76 ship
GF872 filter/reg - $45 + $7 ship
Autokraft pan kit - $430 + $20 ship
Chevelle repro frame mount brackets, pair - $78 + $14 ship
Edelbrock engine swap headers - $600 + $12 handling fee*
Edelbrock engine mount adapter plates - $65 *
Energy Suspension urethane engine mounts, pair - $72 *
Griffin 25202-X 24" x 19" aluminum universal radiator - $196 *
KWiK Performance A/C brackets (no need to notch frame)- $197 + $9 ship
AC Delco 3231640 remanufactured starter (includes $45 core charge)- $295 + $17 ship*
AC Delco 11588456 starter bolts (2) - $7*
Dorman 620634 Radiator Fan Assy ('98 -'02 F-body) - $156 + $12 ship
GM 19201992 LS3 crate engine - $6,195 + $185 ship (thanks Jesse at Scoggin-Dickey Parts Center)
GM 19155067 Corvette accessory drive kit - $770 + $16 handling
Total cost so far - $9,903
Now, to get started.
Since the engine and trans are already out of the car, the next task will be to pull the interior out of the car. The front & rear seats and rubber floor mat (the Tempest didn't have carpet from the factory) have to come out so I can get under the dash to install the air conditioning components that I still need to buy. I know that a lot of wiring will need to be done too so the inner firewall will need to be stripped bare. The seats need to be reupholstered and a new headliner installed.
The floorpans need a little attention, they will be coated with POR-15 rust preventive paint to stop the rust that has started underneath the rubber floor mat. Any water that gets underneath the rubber mat can't dry out very fast like wet carpet would so there's more than a bit of rust, all of these early A-body cars have leaky windshields and backlights.
Since the weather's been extra nice (in the mid-80s) the last few days I took the opportunity to do some more badly-needed garage cleaning and remove the interior from the Tempest.
Junk in the trunk. Most of the parts I've collected so far are crammed in the trunk until I have a better place to put them.
A good used '66 8.2" 3.36 posi rear has been put aside for this project, already scrubbed down with a wire brush and some Simple Green. Two coats of POR-15 semi-gloss black, urethane upper bushings, and some better-fitting brake lines are all it needs. A new charge of GM #1052271 80W-90 axle lubricant and a 4oz bottle of GM #1052358 limited slip axle lubricant additive will be added as well.
Note to self: Do not hammer it too hard out of the hole with this rear end!
This is the farthest the Tempest has ventured out of the garage in years, just far enough to get the driver's door open to access the front seat bolts. It pushes back inside pretty easily, the driveway slope isn't too severe at this point. The original black CA plates just add to the charm of this once thrifty little beauty.
A shot of the original 140 HP 215 straight six that came in this car, it's identical to the 230 Chevy six other than having a smaller bore size (3.750" vs 3.875" for the 230) and having 'PONTIAC' cast into both sides of the block. So yes the little Tempest originally came with a 'corporate' engine of sorts.
The same engine was used for the '65 A-body as the standard engine as well, both the Lemans and Tempest rolled off the assembly line with one of these if you didn't ask for the 326 V8. It's getting a 'corporate' engine again that will get even better gas mileage and have about 4 times the power.
A look inside before the teardown. The seats are in need of attention, especially the front bench. A nice blue indian blanket (already removed here) made the front bench liveable in the past, but now it's time for a decent upholstery job. All of the upholstery pictured is the original issue for this '64 Tempest.
A shot of the original rubber floor mats that came in the low-line Tempest. Easy to clean off with a sponge and soapy water, I kind of prefer these rubber mats to carpet in a daily driver.
What I now have to deal with: Removal of all the old sound deadener and some minor (I hope) rust repair. I do see a few holes that have started under the driver's foot area and one just behind the passenger side of the front bench where it bolts down. All of the bolts holding the seat belts and front seat down came out easily.
A look at the dash and front floors. Note the original cardboard sun visors that don't attach and pivot off of the rear view mirror, there's no day-night mirror on this base model. Simple and inexpensive, but still a lot of car for the money back in '64.
Seats stashed until I can get them to an upholstery shop.
Junk now out of the trunk. I have a '66 VW Type II pickup stashed in the garage, it makes a perfect work bench or storage spot. The completely flat bed on this little one-ton truck is 5' 6" wide and 8' 10" long. The 'covered wagon' canvas top is a unique factory option on this truck.
And if you're wondering, yes it does handle. With a 94.5" wheelbase that's within an inch or two of a C4/C5 'vette, a super-low center of gravity (only the cab itself puts any real weight above the beltline), fully independent suspension and an empty weight of only 2400# it corners like it's on rails.
I put those 16X8.5" 1984 'vette rims and 205/55-16 tires on it back in '86, when all the Corvette guys were dumping them for aftermarket rims or for newer 'vette 16X9.5" rims. Drilled the front discs (off a '71 Type II Bus) and the rear drums (IRS rear suspension/drum brakes off a '70 Type III Squareback) for the Chevy 5 on 4.75" pattern and they bolted right on with no room to spare, but with no cutting on the body.
More to come.....
11-09-2008, 07:12 PM
#13
Great project! I have thought of doing a '64 Tempest into a modern GTO clone to build the Retro GTO that Pontiac should have made. For your transmission I suggest using one of the electronic controlled units with a lock up converter. That way the ECU will control it exactly as programmed like you said you wanted. I have a 4l60e in mine and am using the same column shift I was with the previous Turbo 350. Mine is using a solid rod from Lokar, but if that does not work for you they make a cable that adapts to the column linkage. The 4l60e will fit easier than the 4l80e and be lighter to boot. You can have one built to withstand the power you plan to make and it would be reliable. I am surprised your Tempest weighs that much. I had a 67 Chevelle 427 that weighed in around 3600 and it wasn't stripped. Good luck with your procject and thanks for sharing all the pictures. Can't wait to see it done. That crate LS3 is quite a bargain for that price I'd say.
Pat
Pat
11-09-2008, 08:22 PM
#14
<snip> I am surprised your Tempest weighs that much. I had a 67 Chevelle 427 that weighed in around 3600 and it wasn't stripped. Good luck with your procject and thanks for sharing all the pictures. Can't wait to see it done. That crate LS3 is quite a bargain for that price I'd say.
Pat
Pat
You have to take into account the 5 heavy 17X8" steel wheels (yes, I have a full-size spare) that weigh in at 37# bare and 58# with tire. The big 1-3/8" solid sway bars weigh a ton, and just adding the heavy B-body spindles and 12" discs adds an easy 50# to the front suspension over the stock drums or 30# over the stock A-body 11" spindles and discs however you want to compare it.
The iron Tri-Power intake with carbs weighs an easy 80#, plus I was running iron exhaust manifolds too, the only aluminum on the engine was the stock timing cover. I weighed the Tempest at the dragstrip with a 3/4 tank of gas and a big ice chest in the trunk along with the spare tire and jack, so 3780# wasn't too bad all things considered.
Thank you for the transmisson advice and your well-wishes on my project.
Bart
11-15-2008, 09:58 PM
#17
Nope, it gets along just fine with the 50 or so HP the stock 1600 puts out. It's dangerous enough already without adding big-power to the equation.
Spent some time today doing most of the initial cleaning and scraping on the floor pans so I can begin to apply the POR-15 rust preventive paint. You can use the POR-15 along with small pieces of fiberglass cloth to fill small holes, the silver POR-15 works best because it's full of ground-up aluminum so it fills and builds better than the other colors. I did the trunk floor on this car when I first bought it, this stuff is truly a lifesaver.
It dries extremely strong and will actually help strengthen thin rusted metal. I've also used the black semi-gloss POR-15 on the core support, the frame from the firewall forward and all of the suspension components on this car. It's almost like powdercoating in can and goes on and flows out smoothly with a decent paint brush, the fumes are much too evil to even consider spraying this stuff.
Driver's side floor, taken using flash, not too bad looking.
Driver's side floor again, no flash, you can see light coming through the holes in the footwell.
Passenger side, using flash, in worse shape than the driver's side.
Passenger side again, no flash.
Now, something a little more fun.
I spent some time doing a little deburring and test-fitting together the new 3" PYPES X-pipe system with 3" Race Pro mufflers and 2-1/2" tailpipes. The quality on this system looks top-notch, the welds are all nicely done and the mandrel bends all look good.
After doing a little filing here and there I slid it all together and laid it out on my driveway to get a look at it.
The only modification I'll make to this system will be a set of turned-down tailpipe tips, so I can hide the exhaust exits behind the rear bumper.
The 2-1/2" tailpipes were already expanded to fit the 3" mufflers right out of the box.
The 3" Race Pro mufflers are pretty compact compared to other mufflers with the same straight-through design, this should help to offer some additional ground clearance on lowered cars.
In a couple of days the new LS3 should arrive.
Spent some time today doing most of the initial cleaning and scraping on the floor pans so I can begin to apply the POR-15 rust preventive paint. You can use the POR-15 along with small pieces of fiberglass cloth to fill small holes, the silver POR-15 works best because it's full of ground-up aluminum so it fills and builds better than the other colors. I did the trunk floor on this car when I first bought it, this stuff is truly a lifesaver.
It dries extremely strong and will actually help strengthen thin rusted metal. I've also used the black semi-gloss POR-15 on the core support, the frame from the firewall forward and all of the suspension components on this car. It's almost like powdercoating in can and goes on and flows out smoothly with a decent paint brush, the fumes are much too evil to even consider spraying this stuff.
Driver's side floor, taken using flash, not too bad looking.
Driver's side floor again, no flash, you can see light coming through the holes in the footwell.
Passenger side, using flash, in worse shape than the driver's side.
Passenger side again, no flash.
Now, something a little more fun.
I spent some time doing a little deburring and test-fitting together the new 3" PYPES X-pipe system with 3" Race Pro mufflers and 2-1/2" tailpipes. The quality on this system looks top-notch, the welds are all nicely done and the mandrel bends all look good.
After doing a little filing here and there I slid it all together and laid it out on my driveway to get a look at it.
The only modification I'll make to this system will be a set of turned-down tailpipe tips, so I can hide the exhaust exits behind the rear bumper.
The 2-1/2" tailpipes were already expanded to fit the 3" mufflers right out of the box.
The 3" Race Pro mufflers are pretty compact compared to other mufflers with the same straight-through design, this should help to offer some additional ground clearance on lowered cars.
In a couple of days the new LS3 should arrive.
11-20-2008, 10:33 PM
#18
Today was a fun day for me. My new crate LS3 showed up at about 2:30 PM and I was ready with my trusty (not rusty) '70 Chevy pickup, I had driven it to work for the last 3 days anticipating the engine delivery. The old workhorse did double duty today, picking up the new engine and dropping off the tattered Tempest front bench and back seat at the upholstery shop after work on my way home.
My prize:
Good ol' pickup, this truck equipped with a factory 402 big-block/TH400 hauled my '64 GTO back and forth to the bracket races for over a decade:
Tomorrow I'll tear the crate apart and deposit the LS3 in my garage, I'm too tired to do it tonight. More pics coming soon.
My prize:
Good ol' pickup, this truck equipped with a factory 402 big-block/TH400 hauled my '64 GTO back and forth to the bracket races for over a decade:
Tomorrow I'll tear the crate apart and deposit the LS3 in my garage, I'm too tired to do it tonight. More pics coming soon.
11-21-2008, 11:08 PM
#19
The Eagle has landed. Pulled the top off the crate tonight and hoisted the LS3 off the pallet.
The Tempest gets acquainted with the new-tech motivating force.
Merry Christmas to me!
My upholsterer called me today, he was able to locate the original striped cloth for the seats ($79/yard) as well as the correct color vinyl. Now my seats will look as factory original as possible, I was almost sure I'd have to compromise and end up with something different.
I'm so stoked.
The Tempest gets acquainted with the new-tech motivating force.
Merry Christmas to me!
My upholsterer called me today, he was able to locate the original striped cloth for the seats ($79/yard) as well as the correct color vinyl. Now my seats will look as factory original as possible, I was almost sure I'd have to compromise and end up with something different.
I'm so stoked.
